The factory stuff comes with the rubber hose crimped to a metal tube. Easiest thing to do is to remove the entire works and just use bulk heater hose. You can also cut the aluminum crimp off and install bulk hose onto the pipe. Pretty easy to do providing you can get to it.

 

On my '02 Taurus (with the heater bypass hoses), when the time came to replace the heater hoses, I used bulk heater hose with 90 degree elbows, tees, and a couple 90 degree preformed hoses. It may have been a little expensive with all the fittings, but it will make future repalcements easier. (I had to go to Advance and AutoZone to get everything). A year later, everything is fine with no leaks.

 

The factory stuff comes with the rubber hose crimped to a metal tube. Easiest thing to do is to remove the entire works and just use bulk heater hose. You can also cut the aluminum crimp off and install bulk hose onto the pipe. Pretty easy to do providing you can get to it.
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Thanks for the reply. My major concern is how do you get to it? On the 2001 Duratec engine you have about 3 inches at most between the firewall and the engine :angryfire: . Great car, but not very user friendly for the backyard mechanic. I have no problem using bulk hose. No matter how many couplings or fittings are required because the oem part is 80 bucks and will only corrode again. I sure wish ford had used aluminum or some other rust resitant metal :rolleyes2: . You cannot buy this part aftermarket...it's exclusive to Ford for whatever reason(s).

If anyone could advise as to how I can get at the parts without dismantling the top of the engine I would be happy.

 

Use a motor tool to cut the metal crimps, and slit the hose to peel it off of the heater core inlet and outlet tubes. The heater inlet and outlet tubes are aluminum, and easily damaged, and their connection to the heater core is easily cracked, requiring heater core replacement.

Best to error on the side of caution, and cause as little stress or disruption to the heater core tubes as possible.

 

I had to do the same thing on my sons 1998 Sable. The metal tube on the drivers side developed a leak at the "T".

[attachmentid=27243]

I carried it to the local NAPA store, bought about $35.00 worth of bulk hose, clamps, "T"s and elbows and constructed my own to replace both sides. Also flushed the heater core while I had access to it.

[attachmentid=27244]

So far so good.

 

Great idea, the hardest part was removing the metal pipe assemply on my 2001 Taurus. $54 in parts included two NAPA #9815 3/4" molded 90 degree elbows trimed to fit, 5' of 3/4" heater hose, two 3/4" T's, one 5/8" coupler and 11 hose clamps. The factory bypass is 5/8" to promote flow through the heater core. To get this restriction I clamped a 5/8" coupling inside the 3/4" bypass hose to restrict the flow to factory spec. It's the clamp you see that seems to be doing nothing on the looped bypass. So far it's working fine, used the remaining hose to reinforce the areas where chafing might occur.

 

Tried to do this today on a 2007 Taurus. Maybe Ford changed it, but the hoses on the car were all 5/8's except for the one leading towards the coolant reservoir which was 3/4" (it actually connects to the block, but towards that side). So I needed 5/8 T's, and the pre-fab hoses to the core were also 5/8th's which I was able to get at the local AutoZone. They only had 1 T in stock so I'm finishing up the project tomorrow. Very strange. I only noticed this after assembling the entire thing with 3/4" hose and test fitting the old heater core and the hoses were too large :angry:. Also checked it against the area where it connects near the thermostat and.. 5/8's! Oye.

 

QUOTE (rbarrett1 @ Jul 11 2009, 04:32 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=738704

Great idea, the hardest part was removing the metal pipe assemply on my 2001 Taurus. $54 in parts included two NAPA #9815 3/4" molded 90 degree elbows trimed to fit, 5' of 3/4" heater hose, two 3/4" T's, one 5/8" coupler and 11 hose clamps. The factory bypass is 5/8" to promote flow through the heater core. To get this restriction I clamped a 5/8" coupling inside the 3/4" bypass hose to restrict the flow to factory spec. It's the clamp you see that seems to be doing nothing on the looped bypass. So far it's working fine, used the remaining hose to reinforce the areas where chafing might occur.[/b]

I just did this today after I attempted to back flush the core on my 01 Taurus and found a crack in the Y joint in the ridiculous bypass "hose." I spent 35.00 on the parts and it seems to work well so far so good. What a great idea! I will keep you posted on the long term results.

J.R.

 

How??!!

QUOTE (rbarrett1 @ Jul 11 2009, 04:32 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=738704



I just did this today after I attempted to back flush the core on my 01 Taurus and found a crack in the Y joint in the ridiculous bypass "hose." I spent 35.00 on the parts and it seems to work well so far so good. What a great idea! I will keep you posted on the long term results.

J.R.

My 2000 Ford Taurus sprung a leak in the metal portion of the tube along the firewall. The set up suggested and used by several posters for the Sable looks almost identical to my vehicle. Nice list of parts BUT.... how the heck do you get access to the area? 3 inches is much to small for my hands and additionally you need a little room to manipulate cutter and screw driver etc.
Would really appreciate some help in this area. POR

 

I think the hardest part was removing it around the master cylinder area. But if you're gonna cut and make it out of new heater hose, there shouldn't be any big challenges. Remember to cut the hose off the heater core, so you don't risk breaking the inlets.

 

my steel heater hose sprung a leak today, how hard was it to remove the whole assembly? it looks like there is a permanent connector type deal holding both of the inlet tubes together that go into the heater core. I think I will cut the metal tube then put the 3/4 inch heater line onto it...