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Flange bolts on exhaust headers

2.4K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  christopehr7613  
#1 ·
When doing head gasket, you have to remove the header bolts which are the ones that hold the exhaust down pipes to the heads.

Do these bolts need to be replaced? They seem a little weathered.

Also, I looked for a replacement bolt. The originals seem to be flange bolts that are M8x1.25 25mm.

Can't seem to locate them easily. The dealer probably has some, but not cheap.

Do they need to be flange bolts? Would a regular hex head with or without a washer work?
 
#2 ·
I believe in this case a bolt is a bolt. Tractor Supply is a great source. But any hardware store can hook you up if you bring a few with you. Hardness is key though with exhaust bolts.

A good Tap and Die set will have guages to guide in the sizing. $20 at O'Reillys with that is a good headache solver down the road.
 
#3 ·
I would definitely replace them, they will rust and seize if left untouched. Mine were rounded by the time I needed to do the oil pan gasket and I needed to bring it to an exhaust shop to torch off.

They replaced them with the flanged nuts so that's what I would replace them with. You should be able to find them cheap at any auto parts store or exhaust shop if you bring an example.
 
#4 ·
Any hardware store, big or small, should be able to match up the thread pitch and get a flange nut for you.

The better question is, have you gotten them off already?
 
#5 ·
Hi, any exhaust bolts, clamps, etc should have a Nickel based thread lubricant applied so that when they are disassembled it can be accomplished without causing damage or breakage (sometimes, not always). Murphy's law rules!!!
Exhaust system parts expand / contract more than any other system so it is a good idea to lubricate with the correct stuff. Prior to taking it apart a good soak with PB Blaster works wonders along with tapping with a rubber mallet before and during removal of hardware or parts.
 
#6 ·
Hi, any exhaust bolts, clamps, etc should have a Nickel based thread lubricant applied so that when they are disassembled it can be accomplished without causing damage or breakage (sometimes, not always). Murphy's law rules!!!
Exhaust system parts expand / contract more than any other system so it is a good idea to lubricate with the correct stuff. Prior to taking it apart a good soak with PB Blaster works wonders along with tapping with a rubber mallet before and during removal of hardware or parts.
Especially if you live in the rust belt. ;) Look at my wagon's project thread. I had a hell of a time, but mine is a Duratec not a Vulcan.
 
#7 ·
I got them off without breaking any. Not that hard to do with good ratchet and steady pressure. They were not badly rusted, and I suspect they can be used again. But if there is an easy cheap source, then that would be better. I don't want to spend $100 for 12 exhaust bolts. Junkyard is an option if stealing from a newer car.

The bolts I took off were in alright shape, but some weathering is showing. I could let them soak in PB Blaster overnight or so.

I went to a bolt shop that a mechanic recommended. I found replacement bolts of the right size, but they were not flange bolts. They were the same or better hardness.

Also, the specialty stud with a nut in the middle for tying down the oil dipstick tube is not something that they even wanted to look at.

I also needed some other bolts that rounded off on the top, and they had great replacements for those. (intake manifold bolts)

When I went looking for exhaust bolts at auto parts stores, most had nothing. Some tried to sell me a pack of SAE bolts, and I needed metric. Or they had studs, and said I could use that with a nut. Not. That is not going to seal the exhaust header to the heads. I went to Oreilly, Autozone, pep boys, etc. They all thought it was weird that I would consider replacing bolts....