Nice write up, especially as I'm tracing down a P0340 (camshaft position sensor) engine code.

How do you move the cable bundle w/o removing the UIM?

Also, where did you purchase your new unit? How many $$?

 

Nice write up, especially as I'm tracing down a P0340 (camshaft position sensor) engine code.

How do you move the cable bundle w/o removing the UIM?

Also, where did you purchase your new unit? How many $$?
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I will add this to the write up, but I purchased the unit new from Ford. Cost was $140 for the synchro and $40 for the sensor. I talked to a good friend and mechanic, he mentioned that he gets many Taurus's in his shop that have recently installed a cheap aftermarket synchro just to have it fail soon after. He also stated that many times when a cheap part is used, the tolerances are loose, the body doesn't fit, requires filing and doesn't line up as well as the Motorcraft part. He told me that without the alignment tool, the cheap aftermarket unit will never fit correctly. I did not use an alignment tool because the new Ford unit does not include one. My buddy suggested that using the Ford unit, I could get away without using the tool, as long as I marked the units. The tolerances on the Ford unit match the old one exactly, so no guess work involved.

As for the wiring harness... I just bullied it out of the way, lifting it up and back.

I have pics, but can't upload them currently.

 

Newbee here, my wife has a 2003 SES with 57505 miles. I don't know what specific engine it has, except it's a 3.0 and does not look like a DOHC, so I need help determining that. The "chirping" noise started yesterday. Based on what I have read, this is premature for the mileage. What do y'all think?

 

Nice write up. I was going to start a new post about this but I figure you or someone else reading this thread can probably answer my question...

I'm helping my neighbor work on his 1999 (I think) Taurus SOHC 3.0L, which used to be mine, and I went to check the camshaft position sensor today and realized I had already replaced it when the car belonged to me. However, what I did find was what I think is a synchronizer with a busted "tooth" (see pic below). Should there not be a second "tooth" on the other side there where you can kinda see what looks like the base of where something fractured off?

His check engine light is not currently on but when I scan it for codes it does show the P0430 code. Is his synchonizer missing a tooth, does it just need a new synch, or is it possible the camshaft sensor is just bad again?

Thanks for any input,
Ryan

 

That's a normal synchronizer. Only 1 tooth.

If it's chirping, it's bad. Replace it before it fails and drops the gear into the engine or seizes and stops turning the oil pump.

 

Is that red "dust" in there??? If it is, I'd replace it, that's usually a sign of the item having some play in it.

 

Make sure that the chirping that you hearing is not a worn-out pulley bearing. While the engine is a bit early for a worn out syncro shaft, it is at within the early range of for a worn out tensioner or idler pulley bearing.

 

I have 2 spare stock sychros (from 2000+ model vulcans). when I swapped to the 2000+ vulcan, the "tooth" that Luke has pictured was just like that....on my old synchro, the "tooth" was a lot thinner but more circumfrencial on its shaft. The CPS are also different as well as their wiring plugs, make sure you get the right one. I've also had the broken tooth syndrome (happened just before I did the swap). $140's bout the same amount I paid for mine. I also purchased the alignment tool but have lost it over the years from doin so much moving. The part number for the tool is in Haynes repair manual; can't remember what the number is though......searching....

 

I searched for a how-to, considering this is such a common repair, and was suprised to not find one.

This thread has an excellent warning, but wasn't found with Search becasue synchronizer is spelled wrong in the thread title.


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Could a mod please fix my gramatical mistake in the thread Title I started above so it will come up on a search easy......Sorry for the mistake guys......lol

BTW, the 96-97 Vulcans use a seperate style assembly(has a WIDE tab and a 3 pin sensor plug)----the 98-up was the same listing(narrow tab and a 2 pin sensor plug). There is a huge price difference.....$85 v/s $55. Im guessing the cores on the 96-97 are less in availability is the cost difference.

 

So should I be setting up the new synchro so everything is lined up like where the mark on the trigger tooth and synchro body line up in the photo? Then sliding it down in to the engine with the trigger tooth in exactly the same position as the one removed?

What about the first mark on the engine? Doesn't the syncho only line up in one way so this mark is less important than the one on the trigger tooth so you can see the correct position before the reinstall?

Does this make sense?

 

So should I be setting up the new synchro so everything is lined up like where the mark on the trigger tooth and synchro body line up in the photo? Then sliding it down in to the engine with the trigger tooth in exactly the same position as the one removed?

What about the first mark on the engine? Doesn't the syncho only line up in one way so this mark is less important than the one on the trigger tooth so you can see the correct position before the reinstall?

Does this make sense?
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No, no, and yes (but no).

Before I removed the synchro, I marked the engine next to one of the 3 notches on the synchro. I also marked the tooth where it lies on the synchro. The synchro shaft is round. It does not only line up in one position. It can be installed and rotated 360 degrees. That is why you must mark it before removal and install the new one in the same position. The tooth may be in any position when you shut the engine off. Again, this is why it's important to mark it's position before installing the new one.

 

Hey Luke,
My old green slo is now being used and loved in Austin (Marilyn's son adopted it).
I got a call this AM, engine light on...code 340.
When I installed that engine (98) into the Alien (fond name for its weird little styling nuances) I had to use the 96 cam sensor....smaller tooth and 3 wire vs 2 wire. I still have the 98 sensor and since we are all trying to save a buck or two I was wondering what goes bad in those things? Is there a bushing that gets worn or maybe the gear? Could I just pull the shaft out of the 98 unit and put the 96 shaft in there for him and maybe eliminate the code? Is the code thrown because the sensor is getting varying pulses from wobbling or maybe from gear slop transferring to the upper tooth?
wj

 

Hey Luke,
My old green slo is now being used and loved in Austin (Marilyn's son adopted it).
I got a call this AM, engine light on...code 340.
When I installed that engine (98) into the Alien (fond name for its weird little styling nuances) I had to use the 96 cam sensor....smaller tooth and 3 wire vs 2 wire. I still have the 98 sensor and since we are all trying to save a buck or two I was wondering what goes bad in those things? Is there a bushing that gets worn or maybe the gear? Could I just pull the shaft out of the 98 unit and put the 96 shaft in there for him and maybe eliminate the code? Is the code thrown because the sensor is getting varying pulses from wobbling or maybe from gear slop transferring to the upper tooth?
wj
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I don't know the answer to all your questions.

From what I can tell, the part that goes bad is an internal bearing, like a sleeve bearing. The shaft is poorly lubricated because of it's design. Oil is supposed to climb up and lubricate the bearing. I don't think they are rebuildable by the DIY'er. The gear is held in place with a pin. The bearing is pressed in. I don't know how the trigger is mounted. I don't know what causes the code.

 

Just want to thank all of you who post these tutorials. Have had a squeaking/chirping noise for a couple of weeks and it's been driving me crazy. Heard it loudest on the transmission housing - that was a depressing discovery - but thanks to Al Gore for inventing the internet and thanks for you that have come before me I've fixed the problem - bad cam position synchronizer - in and out in 1 hr - :banana:

Also read the warning and sprung for the Ford replacement parts - $175 with tax for sensor and synchronizer - pricey, but cheaper then repairing the damage from a failed Chinese one.

So thanks again for being here and sharing your expertise.

Duane

 

I just changed out the camshaft position sensor on my '04 Taurus at about 88K

A few comments: Paid $80 plus $10 shipping & handling from Fast Parts Network, one of the suppliers listed on this board. Replaced with Motocraft original equipment don't need the problems with the after market units.

Took about 1-1/2 hours, had not done this before. Here are a few more tips:

It's best to let the engine cool for an hour before starting.

I removed the ignition wires from the coil and folded them back out of the way.
I took the plastic shield off the throttle cable area, probably didn't need to but it helps with access and it's easy.
I removed two connectors, one off a coolant sensor for access and the one off the position sensor.

Now the black hose, not sure what it is, a by-pass hose?? I let the pressure out of the coolant system as a precaution. Squeeze the clip with a pair of pliers, move the clip back down the hose and slip the hose off the right angle pipe.

Now for the wire bundle and plastic tray; undo the clips that hold the top part of the tray by wriggling a small screw driver blade into them, you have to figure out how they release, hard to describe, like a barb, be patient, you don't have to break them. When the top of the tray is open you can lift and bend the tray up to expose the position sensor underneath. I managed to sit it on top of the injector rail which kept it out of the way. I didn't need to break the tray, perhaps that is necessary on older models?

I cleaned the area with brake parts cleaner before removing the black plastic cap which houses the magnetic sensor. The two small bolts that hold the cap on are 5.5 mm. I used a flexible 1/4" drive but you could use several other methods. If you don't have the tools, buy some before you start. You're saving a lot of money by not having the dealer do this. My 1/4" drive socket set was made by Benchtop. It's OK quality and I bought it at K-Mart. It has paid for itself about 1000 times!

This next step is very important! Mark the position of the synchronizer body relative to the recess in the engine where it fits. You want to be able to put the new one back as close as possible to the position of the old one. I used a fine black permanent marker.
Now, even more important! Mark the position of the tab that the sensor reads relative to the synchronizer body or housing. Mark it as accurately and clearly as possible.

Next remove the 10mm bolt with the big washer that retains the synchronizer. Grasp the synchronizer body at the top with a pair of pliers and rotate it a little back and forth while pulling it up. Remove the synchronizer unit.

Do not turn or crank the engine until the new one is installed. Very important!

Clean the area where the synchronizer sits. I put WD 40 on the cloth and wipe carefully to avoid getting any dirt down the hole.

Make sure the new unit is clean. Mine was dirty and slightly rusty in the factory wrapper. Oil it thoroughly. I used the same Mobil 1 I put in my engine. I even put some in the top, turned it both ways many times to work the oil in.

Turn the tab about 10 degrees counter clockwise from where you want it to be when installed.
Install the synchronizer unit turning it back and forth a little while you push it down. You can feel the gear theeth engage then push it down to seat it. I had to tap it down very gently!! with the plastic handle of a large screw driver.

Now check the position of the body relative to the recess in the engine. And the position of the tab relative to the synchronizer body. If you didn't engage the gear teeth correctly, you may have to pull the synchronizer up and do it again.

The outer body or housing of my new unit did not end up in exactly the same position as the old one. It was close but not identical.

Now, rotate the body until the tab on the shaft is aligned in exactly the same place as the old one relative to the body and tighten the 10mm retaining bolt with the big washer. Now you see how important it is to mark the old one carefully.

Re assemble everything carefully. Don't forget to tighten the top of your coolant filler.

A couple of comments:

Although my old unit squeaked it was in good condition with very little wear on the gear teeth and no noticable play in the shaft. A good shot of oil in the top stopped the squeak when worked in.

Next time if I still have this car in another 85K I will open the small hole in the plastic sensor cap and squirt some oil in without removing anything. I bet it silences the squeak after it works in. I don't think a little oil will hurt the function of the sensor.

And a question:

I marked everything carefully but the timing could still be off slightly.
Does the ecu adjust the timing to compensate??

John aka JayKay 2004 Taurus 88K

 

Just an FYI, got an OEM synchro for $82 and the sensor for $20 from Bob Utter Ford in Texas. They seem to be competitive for the part. I have the same problem in my father's car - noticed it yesterday - and looking forward to getting it replaced & sounding less like tweety bird!!

 

So are these lubed by the vehicle oil or should a high quality gear grease be smeared on the gear before install?

 

You can use an assembly lube if you'd like or just dunk it in motor oil. It is lubricated via engine oil and pressure. The synchro gear meshes with the camshaft gear and thats where it gets is lubrication from. Same as the cam gear, so....if you've got no oil getting to the cam, or the cam gear, you ain't got no oil getting to that, and have most likely already done major damage to every other component in the engine.

 

I searched for a how-to, considering this is such a common repair, and was suprised to not find one.

This thread has an excellent warning, but wasn't found with Search becasue synchronizer is spelled wrong in the thread title.

If your Vulcan is chirping, squeaking, or squealing from the driver's side of the engine bay, this is for you.


The Camshaft Synchronizer assembly is basically just an ignition distributor body without the points assembly. Instead, it uses a trigger tooth and pickup sensor (Camshaft Position Sensor) to time ignition spark.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
2. Remove intake accordian tube.
3. Disconnect throttle body from upper intake manifold and position to the side.
   • Some manuals suggest removing the upper intake manifold completely. This does allow for more access to position the wiring harness out of the way. However, you should replace the intake manifold gaskets if you remove the manifold.
4. Disconnect coolant crossover tube from lower intake manifold.
5. Disconnect camshaft position sensor plug.
6. Remove camshaft position sensor by loosening the two small bolts.
7. IMPORTANT!!! Note the position of the trigger tooth!!!
   • Mark the position of the trigger tooth in relation to the synchronizer body. A Sharpie or White-Out works great.
   • Also mark the position of the synchronizer body in relation to the engine. This will give a general mark to align with when inserting the body.
8. Remove camshaft synchronizer hold down bolt.
9. Clean dirt and debris away from the base of the synchronizer.
10. Lift the synchronizer up and out of the engine.
11. Lubricate the new synchronizer by squirting oil into the oil holes. Lightly oil the gear and lower oil o-ring.
12. Gently lower new synchronizer into the engine.
13. Align the synchronizer. The trigger tooth MUST be in the same relative position to the synchronizer body as the old assembly.
    • With the synchronizer body aligned to the engine, make fine adjustments clockwise or counter clockwise to align the trigger tooth to the synchronizer body.
    • Refer to the marks made on the old assembly and position the new trigger and body exactly like the old one! The trigger position relative to the body must be the same as the old assembly!!!
    • To get the alignment of both the body to engine, and tooth to body, it may require raising and lowering the synchronizer several times. The cam gear will turn the trigger a few degrees as the synchronizer is lowered into position. Before lowering, set the tooth about 10 degrees counterclockwise to your mark on the synchro body.
14. Install the synchronizer hold down bolt.
15. Install the position sensor.
16. Reconnect sensor plug.
17. Follow the reserve steps 4 through 1.

* NOTE * These instructions are specifically based on using a NEW MOTORCRAFT unit. Aftermarket parts may not fit as well. If you use aftermarket, MAKE SURE YOU USE THE SUPPLIED ALIGNMENT TOOL. It is usually included with aftermarket units (I wonder why?).

Most manuals state to set the engine to TDC on cylinder #1 before removing the old synchronizer.

**** I will upload pics when the forums are fixed to allow them.

Showing the mark on the engine and the synchro body
[attachmentid=24440]

Showing the mark on the trigger tooth and synchro body. This is done BEFORE removal
[attachmentid=24439]
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I'm not getting any noises from my engine but I am experiencing drivability problems with my 02 Taurus w/3.0L OHV. I am getting what feels like a buck or loss of power at highway speeds. It sometimes feels like a misfire. I have replaced the ignition coil, the plug wires and the plugs. I was getting a p1151 code and I took the car to a local dealership to have it diagnosed. They said my upstream o2 sensor on bank 2 was not switching. I replaced it and immediately the car drove better. The problems came back the next day. I'm going to replace the upstream o2 sensor on bank 1 today, weather permitting. My scan tool monitors my fuel pressure at around 280kpa while I'm driving. I'm wondering if my cam synchronizer could be worn out and causing these problems. My check engine light is not on currently. I know my fuel pressure is on the low side of the spec and I have replaced the fuel filter. I am looking at three possibilities. My cam synchronizer, my MAF sensor or my fuel pump. Can you provide any insight?

 

Where is the bolt that holds the synchronizer on the block?

 

Thanks for the info everyone! This was a great writeup and saved me some $$ as I prolly would have taken it to the shop if I didnt find this. I just switched my sensor and sync, took about an hour and a half but had the kids running around. I would say the hardest part is getting the loom out of the way, finally got it to sit on the rail and out of the way enough to access. Its not squeeking, will take for a spin later. Old unit looks good except for the squeek, and the sensor is prolly good as I didnt have a Check Engine light.

Bought my Motorcraft sync for $113 and sensor for $23, El Cajon Ford in CA (great parts guy there). My car is a 03 3.0 Vulcan Taurus with 95K.

 

01 Vulcan, the bolt is under the wire harness, toward the tranny from the sync. Mine was covered in oil, but once you have the sensor off its easy to find.

 

I wanted to say thanks as well.

Just did this repair on my 06 taurus (with 85000 miles) today and took about an hour or so - couldn't have done it without all the info here in this forum. I didn't remove any parts, but getting past the plastic part that routes the wires was a pain. Cracked it open (broke a couple of the tabs) and then just bent it and tied off the wires and plastic out of the way. Leaves just enough space to get the cam sync out. Took me a couple of tries to get the new part in correctly aligned, but it was close enough and the car is running fine.

BTW, got the part from rockauto - about $84 for Motorcraft part DA2089 ...

 

Someone should sticky this :thumb:

 

QUOTE (fdogg96 @ May 13 2009, 11:55 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=724996

Someone should sticky this :thumb:[/b]

It's already in the Topic Finder.