QUOTE (dave92 @ Aug 9 2009, 02:33 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=745413

QUOTE (dave92 @ Aug 9 2009, 02:16 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=745409

QUOTE (Marcharino @ Jul 22 2009, 02:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=741261

QUOTE (rudedog @ Jan 17 2009, 04:11 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=693365

Remove the Negative battery cable.
Raise the car and support the car on jack stands. Just to the rear of the rear sub-frame mounts there are"rails" under the car, put the stands there as you will be dropping the sub-frame.
Disconnect the dog bone dampener.
Remove the serpentine belt.
Remove the right front wheel/tire assembly.
Disconnect the right side end link from either end, complete removal is NOT necessary.
Remove the right side strut pinch bolt.
Remove the little bolt that holds the brake line to the strut. 10mm I believe.
Place your jack under the passenger's side of the sub-frame near the control arm.
Remove the two sub-frame bolts on that side.
Lower the jack, slowly, to a position that you can see the A/C clutch.
It may be necessary to remove the front sub-frame bolt on the driver's side, but the last 3 vehicles I've done it wasn't necessary.
After you've got the cradle dropped, you should see the center bolt for the clutch. 8mm IIRC. Remove it and the front plate should come off with a little help of a screw driver and wiggling it a bit.
Behind that there is a snap ring, you'll need snap ring pliers to get it off, then you can remove the pulley. The last part is the coil, unplug it carefully, as I've seen people yank out the wire and mess up the plug. Then with a small hammer or a couple of screwdrivers, either pry the coil off, or knock it off by hitting it on two different sides alternately.
To reinstall the coil, you'll need a piece of 2x4 or something to cover the "face" of the coil to knock(press) it back on. From there install everything in reverse order that it came off.

You shouldn't need to realign the car, at least none of the ones I've done haven't needed it, but it would be a good idea to have it realigned if it has not been done with in a year.

Good luck, Rudy.[/b]

To Rudy,

I've been told by a AC shop that I need to re-gap the clutch on my '92 AC Compressor, and want to do-it-myself without removing the compressor (R12 refill is well over $300 & R134 conversion and flush is not less). In your explanation of "dropping the sub-frame," is there some diagram (or reference) to which I can refer to know the location of the items to which you refer--I'm unsure of the location of these items:
1) "Dog-bone dampener?"
2) "Right side end link?"
3) "Right side strut pinch bolt?"

Also (seeing one of the below posts), can I just remove the center bolt, or do I need a special tool to hold the clutch plate while loosening the bolt? If the latter, where does one acquire that tool, or do I have to make it, as the post suggests?

Marcharino
[/b][/quote]
I started yesterday doing this project on my 1998 DOHC Taurus. There are additional things to do.
Remove the Coolant Expansion Tank for more room to work.
Disconnect both battery cables.
Disconnect the Air Box.
Remove all subframe mount bolts.
Remove the upper water hose from water pump.
remove 2 mount bolts holding the expansion bottle to fender.
Remove vacuum hose from back of engine to vacuum module on firewall.

Pay close attention to the AC flex line that runs from the expansion bottle to AC compressor.
I had to leverage the motor to the left to get the AC Clutch assy to gain clearance.
I only found one tiny shim, none behind the center bolt. You can get a shim kit with C clip and bolt
from Advance Auto Parts (#24187 $17).
My magnetic coil is in good shape. The face of the Pulley and Clutch are chewed up.
Something was making a terrible squeal, so I'm replacing the 2 outside pieces.
This is a good time to replace the Idler pulley and water pump.
And the additional 5" drop gives plenty of room to replace the Struts.
I may see if I can get the back exhaust pipe bolts off the backside manifold
so I can remove my LEAKING Oil Pan (for 2 years).
Doing the work myself saves lots of money. I've been unemployed since February.
[/b][/quote]

I found the front subframe bolts eaten away by Mag/Chloride. If you live in the Snow Belt check the front subframe mounts.
[/b][/quote]

 

QUOTE (dave92 @ Aug 9 2009, 02:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=745417

QUOTE (dave92 @ Aug 9 2009, 02:33 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=745413

QUOTE (dave92 @ Aug 9 2009, 02:16 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=745409

QUOTE (Marcharino @ Jul 22 2009, 02:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=741261

QUOTE (rudedog @ Jan 17 2009, 04:11 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=693365

Remove the Negative battery cable.
Raise the car and support the car on jack stands. Just to the rear of the rear sub-frame mounts there are"rails" under the car, put the stands there as you will be dropping the sub-frame.
Disconnect the dog bone dampener.
Remove the serpentine belt.
Remove the right front wheel/tire assembly.
Disconnect the right side end link from either end, complete removal is NOT necessary.
Remove the right side strut pinch bolt.
Remove the little bolt that holds the brake line to the strut. 10mm I believe.
Place your jack under the passenger's side of the sub-frame near the control arm.
Remove the two sub-frame bolts on that side.
Lower the jack, slowly, to a position that you can see the A/C clutch.
It may be necessary to remove the front sub-frame bolt on the driver's side, but the last 3 vehicles I've done it wasn't necessary.
After you've got the cradle dropped, you should see the center bolt for the clutch. 8mm IIRC. Remove it and the front plate should come off with a little help of a screw driver and wiggling it a bit.
Behind that there is a snap ring, you'll need snap ring pliers to get it off, then you can remove the pulley. The last part is the coil, unplug it carefully, as I've seen people yank out the wire and mess up the plug. Then with a small hammer or a couple of screwdrivers, either pry the coil off, or knock it off by hitting it on two different sides alternately.
To reinstall the coil, you'll need a piece of 2x4 or something to cover the "face" of the coil to knock(press) it back on. From there install everything in reverse order that it came off.

You shouldn't need to realign the car, at least none of the ones I've done haven't needed it, but it would be a good idea to have it realigned if it has not been done with in a year.

Good luck, Rudy.[/b]

To Rudy,

I've been told by a AC shop that I need to re-gap the clutch on my '92 AC Compressor, and want to do-it-myself without removing the compressor (R12 refill is well over $300 & R134 conversion and flush is not less). In your explanation of "dropping the sub-frame," is there some diagram (or reference) to which I can refer to know the location of the items to which you refer--I'm unsure of the location of these items:
1) "Dog-bone dampener?"
2) "Right side end link?"
3) "Right side strut pinch bolt?"

Also (seeing one of the below posts), can I just remove the center bolt, or do I need a special tool to hold the clutch plate while loosening the bolt? If the latter, where does one acquire that tool, or do I have to make it, as the post suggests?

Marcharino
[/b][/quote]
I started yesterday doing this project on my 1998 DOHC Taurus. There are additional things to do.
Remove the Coolant Expansion Tank for more room to work.
Disconnect both battery cables.
Disconnect the Air Box.
Remove all subframe mount bolts.
Remove the upper water hose from water pump.
remove 2 mount bolts holding the expansion bottle to fender.
Remove vacuum hose from back of engine to vacuum module on firewall.

Pay close attention to the AC flex line that runs from the expansion bottle to AC compressor.
I had to leverage the motor to the left to get the AC Clutch assy to gain clearance.
I only found one tiny shim, none behind the center bolt. You can get a shim kit with C clip and bolt
from Advance Auto Parts (#24187 $17).
My magnetic coil is in good shape. The face of the Pulley and Clutch are chewed up.
Something was making a terrible squeal, so I'm replacing the 2 outside pieces.
This is a good time to replace the Idler pulley and water pump.
And the additional 5" drop gives plenty of room to replace the Struts.
I may see if I can get the back exhaust pipe bolts off the backside manifold
so I can remove my LEAKING Oil Pan (for 2 years).
Doing the work myself saves lots of money. I've been unemployed since February.
[/b][/quote]

I found the front subframe bolts eaten away by Mag/Chloride. If you live in the Snow Belt check the front subframe mounts.
[/b][/quote]
[/b][/quote]

 

Update now that job is finished on my 1998 DOHC.
NAPA sells a complete Clutch Assy Kit, magnetic coil, pulley, clutch and Shims (# 273250) Net price was $92.03.
The Clutch has been redesigned dropping off the knobs allowing much more wiggle room.
The Shims in NAPA's kit are .015, .0185, .035, .045, .060. The Original Shim from Ford was .040.
I used the .035 Shim and had a clearance of .022.
I did replace the tensioner pulley bearing. The NAPA pulley (#38006) was different so I swapped the bearing.
I also replaced the right front Strut with the 8" drop of the Subframe.
Now that everything is done my Water pump seal is throwing droplets. It doesn't leak with the engine off.
I hoping the Seal will swell, if not I will be draning the coolant again.

 

Dave,
Why did you replace the clutch? Your looks almost new. Mine is scratched all over, but I am going to put everything back with a new bearing. If you are throwing away your clutch, can I have it?

 

QUOTE (paker @ Aug 12 2009, 03:48 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=746055

Dave,
Why did you replace the clutch? Your looks almost new. Mine is scratched all over, but I am going to put everything back with a new bearing. If you are throwing away your clutch, can I have it?[/b]

Pick on up at a junk yard.
At my local You Pull it Yourself place I got the clutch plate and bearing/pulley as an assembly, for $8.00!
U-Pull R-Parts, Rosemount, MN (also one in Bethel, MN)

Great thing about that yard is you can practice on the junkers before doing yours and find great parts for cheap.
I will hopefully be able to post pics and details of the replacement of mine on my 2001 SEL with DOHC 24valve engine. They are different for different engines. I will have to use a special tool for the serpentine belt tension arm, no room for a rachet or pry bar.


jba

 

QUOTE (Jamesba @ Aug 24 2009, 03:26 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=748571

QUOTE (paker @ Aug 12 2009, 03:48 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=746055

Dave,
Why did you replace the clutch? Your looks almost new. Mine is scratched all over, but I am going to put everything back with a new bearing. If you are throwing away your clutch, can I have it?[/b]

Pick on up at a junk yard.
At my local You Pull it Yourself place I got the clutch plate and bearing/pulley as an assembly, for $8.00!
U-Pull R-Parts, Rosemount, MN (also one in Bethel, MN)

Great thing about that yard is you can practice on the junkers before doing yours and find great parts for cheap.
I will hopefully be able to post pics and details of the replacement of mine on my 2001 SEL with DOHC 24valve engine. They are different for different engines. I will have to use a special tool for the serpentine belt tension arm, no room for a rachet or pry bar.


jba
[/b][/quote]

I forgot to say that I also pulled off the coil at the junkyard too. Save a snap ring too! (get all the parts of the assembly you can even if you do not think you need them!!)
You just need a good prybar to work it loose. Wiggle it loose slowly and fairly gently but with some force to get it moving from 3-4 sides working from the back (metal backing) rotating around being carefull not to damage the connector. When you pry on it, put the bar behind it and push the bar away from you rather than toward you so you don't damage the top edges of the coil.
Work it a tiny bit at a time and it will come right off!!!
You can do the same with the pulley/bearing assembly (which has to come off first) once the snap ring is off. Which is truly the hardest part on a 2001 Taurus with the DOHC 24 valve. But the good news it that there is just barely enouch clearance for the parts to all come off of the shaft!!! (barely)
To flex/release the belt tensioner you will need a Serpentine Belt Removal tool. (@$30.00 to buy or a deposit at O'Reilly, Autozone etc.) The tool needs to have a 3/8 square lug on it to fit the square lug hole on the back of the tensioner. (about 1/4 from pulley end on back side facing the frame)

There is only 3/4 inches of clearance between the back of the tensioner and the frame, so the tool has to be no taller than that and the one I bought was taller so I ground it down to size with a tabletop grinder.(!!!!) I found out later that the other bar that comes with the set works even though it is only 1/2 inch square, it just fits enough (a bit sloppy fit) to move the tensioner. (rats!!!)
(live and learn)
I am going to work up a detailed summary of what I did, with pictures I hope and post it to give back for all the great tips and help TCCA has given me...

TCCA has saved me a lot of money!!! THANKS!
jba / Jamesba

 

This looks like a good thread. I am bumping it to the top since this is the season for a/c clutch failures.



QUOTE (Jamesba @ Aug 25 2009, 10:22 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=748773

QUOTE (Jamesba @ Aug 24 2009, 03:26 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=748571

QUOTE (paker @ Aug 12 2009, 03:48 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=746055

Dave,
Why did you replace the clutch? Your looks almost new. Mine is scratched all over, but I am going to put everything back with a new bearing. If you are throwing away your clutch, can I have it?[/b]

Pick on up at a junk yard.
At my local You Pull it Yourself place I got the clutch plate and bearing/pulley as an assembly, for $8.00!
U-Pull R-Parts, Rosemount, MN (also one in Bethel, MN)

Great thing about that yard is you can practice on the junkers before doing yours and find great parts for cheap.
I will hopefully be able to post pics and details of the replacement of mine on my 2001 SEL with DOHC 24valve engine. They are different for different engines. I will have to use a special tool for the serpentine belt tension arm, no room for a rachet or pry bar.


jba
[/b][/quote]

I forgot to say that I also pulled off the coil at the junkyard too. Save a snap ring too! (get all the parts of the assembly you can even if you do not think you need them!!)
You just need a good prybar to work it loose. Wiggle it loose slowly and fairly gently but with some force to get it moving from 3-4 sides working from the back (metal backing) rotating around being carefull not to damage the connector. When you pry on it, put the bar behind it and push the bar away from you rather than toward you so you don't damage the top edges of the coil.
Work it a tiny bit at a time and it will come right off!!!
You can do the same with the pulley/bearing assembly (which has to come off first) once the snap ring is off. Which is truly the hardest part on a 2001 Taurus with the DOHC 24 valve. But the good news it that there is just barely enouch clearance for the parts to all come off of the shaft!!! (barely)
To flex/release the belt tensioner you will need a Serpentine Belt Removal tool. (@$30.00 to buy or a deposit at O'Reilly, Autozone etc.) The tool needs to have a 3/8 square lug on it to fit the square lug hole on the back of the tensioner. (about 1/4 from pulley end on back side facing the frame)

There is only 3/4 inches of clearance between the back of the tensioner and the frame, so the tool has to be no taller than that and the one I bought was taller so I ground it down to size with a tabletop grinder.(!!!!) I found out later that the other bar that comes with the set works even though it is only 1/2 inch square, it just fits enough (a bit sloppy fit) to move the tensioner. (rats!!!)
(live and learn)
I am going to work up a detailed summary of what I did, with pictures I hope and post it to give back for all the great tips and help TCCA has given me...

TCCA has saved me a lot of money!!! THANKS!
jba / Jamesba
[/b][/quote]

 

I changed the A/C clutch yeaterday on my daughter's 2004 Taurus 3.0 single overhead valve engine using rudedog's procedure on pg. 1.Excellent info! I have a few tips:

1). I should have removed the dogbone dampener rather than just disconnecting one end. It must have fallen back into the bracket at some point while lowering the engine cradle. It broke in half. Had a hard time finding a new one locally but did after visiting 5 auto part stores.

2). I found it easier to remove the right strut upper mounting nuts inside the engine compartment rather than trying to remove the pinch bolt. Mine is corroded and would not budge.

3). Keep your eyes on any hoses and lines, particularly on the drivers side, while lowering the engine cradle. I had 2 vacuum lines that were being stretched off their connections.

4). Keep your eye on the belt idler pulley. Mine bent when it grazed the chassis. Probably should remove it.

Other than that, It wasn't that bad of a job!

 

Thanks for the write up! I'm about to attempt this on a 01 OHV. Girl I bought it from ran it til the belt snapped and I got it for $350 since it wasn't worth repair at her mechanic's quote. I think the compressor is fine, it turns freely. It's been sitting a couple months and still has a good refrigerant charge so the seals must be good enough. The pulley moves around the hub a good 1/4" any direction!

 

I've got a '96 DOHC with a failing A/C clutch bearing. Do I understand correctly from the previous few posts that the clutch can be changed from above, in place, w/o dropping the subframe?

Thanks!

 

Yes! See Search.

 

Removing compressor in 1994 Taurus with 3.8L engine

I don't have many questions in this post (they're in bold), but I thought I'd relate my experience for other relative beginners in a similar situation, attached to this thread since it's listed in the EZ Topic Finder as "AC Compressor Removal" (though this thread is mostly about removing just the clutch--if there's a better main thread to post this, let me know).

I'm removing the AC compressor from my 94 Taurus 3.8L, because something failed in either the compressor, clutch, or pulley, which isn't allowing the pulley to rotate. This caused the belt to smoke and then snap. I haven't had AC since May 2008, when the R134 leaked on a hot day with the AC on maximum. I confirmed it was a leak by trying to do a simple recharge with a can (with pressure gauge built in) from Kragen, and watched the pressure drop back to zero in minutes. The pulley continued to rotate at that time. I don't know what the condition of the clutch was at that time, and I didn't bother fixing the leak, evacuating the system, etc., since I knew less about cars then than I do now, and couldn't afford to have it repaired by a mechanic.

I've read here and elsewhere that the compressor's pulley and clutch can be accessed and removed through the right front wheel well, after removing the wheel and the plastic splash guard, but not with my car--the pulley end of the compressor is too close to the body of the car to allow a pulley removal tool to be used. In some Taurus models/engines, is the compressor further back towards the wheel well than with the 3.8 engine? Or is it always necessary to drop the subframe to get to the pulley/clutch through the wheel well on all Taurus models/engines? If so, though that might be simpler for some people, I decided to remove the entire compressor etc. to get to the pulley/clutch, and get to it from the top, by removing the alternator and power steering fluid pump, which seemed simpler to me. I also wanted to get in some practice on removing these parts (never did before), and I don't feel up to trying out alternative ways to remove just the AC pulley/clutch from the top of the car, as some people can. And since there's no refrigerant left in the AC system to try to save, and it'll probably need a complete vacuum/flush/refill anyway, that's another reason it seems less necessary for me to leave the compressor in place and just try to remove only the pulley/clutch.

I haven't done a lot of work on cars (though I'm catching up), and never had to remove a compressor until now. I'm finding it tough to find illustrations and videos that are specific about how and where to disconnect the hoses attached to a compressor. I've searched YouTube and elsewhere, and haven't found decent videos on this, and none for the Taurus 3.8. Lacking any of this, I finally figured out the standard text instructions, which tell you to follow the two lines coming from/going to the compressor, to their spring lock couplings (small donuts circling the tubing) that attach them to the rest of the tubing, and to use a spring lock tool to disconnect at these points. My research found that many people find these particular spring locks, and the hoses they hold together, to be difficult to release, which is another reason I didn't want to do this. Also, those "normal" directions will leave you with much of the rubber and curved metal tubing, the AC manifold, etc. still attached to the compressor when you remove it. Unless I'm misinterpreting something, at least in my Taurus, removing the compressor along with some attached tubing looks like a real hassle, requiring you to move other tubes, etc. out of the way that the instructions don't mention (and the Chilton manual says you also need to remove the radiator and fan, which doesn't look necessary in my model, even though I read the section dealing specifically with the 3.8L). The Haynes manual says the reason you need to leave the tubing attached to the compressor, is that if you try the easy method and remove the manifold bolt that holds the tubing mount at the rear of the compressor, and leave the compressor tubing in the car, that the compressor won't clear past the manifold and tubing when you try to lift it up and out. But that's not the case in my car--all that section of the tubing, manifold, etc. goes to the side and under the compressor, out of the way of lifting. The power steering fluid tubing is more in the way, and I can work the compressor past those with no real difficulty.

Maybe the official directions, even when referring specifically to the 3.8L engine, don't match my Taurus because they refer to a different sub-model or engine type whose compressor lines are mounted differently?

In any case, I went with the easy method for my particular car's layout, and removed the manifold bolt on the rear of the compressor that holds the mount for where the tubes enter/exit the compressor, rotated the compressor so it was rear end up so it would clear the tubing and part of the engine, and pulled it out of the car. There was no pressure left in the system, so no sudden release of R134.

For the time being, due to cost, I'm probably not going to be trying to revive or replace the compressor (and the other AC parts like the accumulator), purging, recharging, etc. to get my AC back, until some time next year when it gets hot enough for AC. For now I just want to get the pulley to turn so I can drive the car again. My next step is to examine the pulley bearing, clutch, coil, compressor, etc. to figure out what needs to be done to get things unseized.

Bottom line, is that in my Taurus model, I found it easier to remove the compressor than some manuals, etc. seem to describe, or at least I figured out the way that seemed easiest for me:

• If your AC system still has refrigerant in it, you'll need to evacuate it first.
• Remove the belt, alternator, and power steering pump.
• Disconnect the two electrical connectors from the compressor (the bigger, cylindrical one has a small metal release latch towards the front, that you have to reach under to get to, and pull forward).
• Remove the bolt for the manifold mount on the rear of the compressor.
• Remove the compressor's four mounting bolts (though getting to the bottom two bolts isn't exactly easy).
• Rotate the compressor so its rear (manifold mount) end is up, then pull it up and out.

Any advice and criticism welcome.

 

2007 Taurus SE 3.0L

AC stopped blowing cold air and pully was rattling. I found this thread and followed rudedogs instructions. The only thing I didn't do was remove the belt. All 3 rubber bushings were missing from the front plate. I only took that off-replaced the bushings-then put everything back together (nothing else looked damaged, that's why I didn't go any further).

Now my car won't run. It starts then sputters and shuts off.

This is where I need help guys. I am thinking that when I put the bolts back into the dogbone and altenator I may have done something wrong, causing the belt to be too tight? That's the only thing I can come up with. I double checked everything all around the engine and couldn't find anything out of place (belts, hoses etc...).

When I start it I can pick up on a slight whine coming from the engine and I did get it to idle around 600 rpm for about 30 seconds but I could smell something burning and shut it off.

Can someone point me in the right direction or did I just completly screw up our Taurus?

 

When you lowered your subframe, something got disconnected. You probably have a massive vacuum leak or loose electric connections. Check all your cables/hoses.

 

Notes from clutch replacement on 2003 Duratec Wagon

I used the “Four Seasons” 47882 Clutch Assembly. Buy with confidence. It comes with everything you need- instructions, hub armature, rotor/pulley (with bearing installed), coil, shims, bolt, washer, and snap ring. Got it for $38.56 on Amazon.

I only had to remove the negative battery cable (positive was never an issue or under any stress).

I have a large after-market tensioner and could tell in advance that it would also have to be removed. Glad I did.

My 2003 wagon (duratec dohv) did not have a dog-bone dampener or torque strut that required removal.

Obviously, the right front fender liner had to be removed.

I removed the right strut upper mounting nuts as recommended by another person. The strut has to be disconnected at some point so that the sub-frame can go down low enough. Removing the upper nuts was easier for me; this method eliminates the steps of loosening the bottom pinch bolt, disconnecting the end link, and disconnecting the brake line. The strut moves down as a unit and is relatively easy to reinstall from the top.


I could not get proper access from lowering only the passenger side sub-frame. Through some trial and error I ended up placing a separate jack under the driver side and lowering that too. I initially removed the passenger front sub-frame bolt and took the rear to the last could of threads. I had a floor jack underneath. I ended up removing both sub-frame bolts completely. I had the driver side bolts down to the last few threads (with a scissor jack underneath). Over the course of my trial and error, I noted that the power steering pump pulley was pinching a couple of ac lines but not damaging them; by rearranging the lines, I was able to get a significant increase in the lowering of the engine. In retrospect, this might have been sufficient; however, if I ever did this again, I would be prepared to lower both sides. I only had one major vacuum line stretch off of the brake master cylinder booster; it was a no-brainer to find and fix. My recommendation is that it would never be necessary to pry anything. If the engine doesn’t come down, do some investigation around the sides of the engine compartment to look for any areas that are pinching. Note that I did not go so far as to loosen or disengage the drive side strut.

My ac compressor clutch was obviously ruined (loose, wobbling, with missing bearings) so I had no concerns about damaging the hub/ armature by holding it with a screwdriver during removal of the bolt (8mm original/ 10mm replacement with kit). Old hub/armature wiggled off easily. I was able to torque the new bolt simply by holding the armature in place with my hand.

I got (stupidly) confused about which snap ring to remove. The one you want to focus on runs around the race of the bearing and is over an inch in diameter. It is very easy to access with no special tool required. I got fixated on the very small snap ring directly near the shaft which is back near the seal. This was a significant waste of time.

I pried the old coil off with a claw hammer. Since I had a replacement, damage was not a concern. The four seasons coil has a strong steel frame. It took some pounding on a wood block to get it seated evenly. I was able to do it with any damage to the coil. If I had it to do again, I might pre-drill a hole in a block of wood to go over the shaft, since the plane of the face of the coil extends past the plane of the end of the shaft. I might also use a lubricant.

 

I used the “Four Seasons” 47882 Clutch Assembly. Buy with confidence. It comes with everything you need- instructions, hub armature, rotor/pulley (with bearing installed), coil, shims, bolt, washer, and snap ring. Got it for $38.56 on Amazon.

I only had to remove the negative battery cable (positive was never an issue or under any stress).

I have a large after-market tensioner and could tell in advance that it would also have to be removed. Glad I did.

My 2003 wagon (duratec dohv) did not have a dog-bone dampener or torque strut that required removal.

Obviously, the right front fender liner had to be removed.

I removed the right strut upper mounting nuts as recommended by another person. The strut has to be disconnected at some point so that the sub-frame can go down low enough. Removing the upper nuts was easier for me; this method eliminates the steps of loosening the bottom pinch bolt, disconnecting the end link, and disconnecting the brake line. The strut moves down as a unit and is relatively easy to reinstall from the top.


I could not get proper access from lowering only the passenger side sub-frame. Through some trial and error I ended up placing a separate jack under the driver side and lowering that too. I initially removed the passenger front sub-frame bolt and took the rear to the last could of threads. I had a floor jack underneath. I ended up removing both sub-frame bolts completely. I had the driver side bolts down to the last few threads (with a scissor jack underneath). Over the course of my trial and error, I noted that the power steering pump pulley was pinching a couple of ac lines but not damaging them; by rearranging the lines, I was able to get a significant increase in the lowering of the engine. In retrospect, this might have been sufficient; however, if I ever did this again, I would be prepared to lower both sides. I only had one major vacuum line stretch off of the brake master cylinder booster; it was a no-brainer to find and fix. My recommendation is that it would never be necessary to pry anything. If the engine doesn’t come down, do some investigation around the sides of the engine compartment to look for any areas that are pinching. Note that I did not go so far as to loosen or disengage the drive side strut.

My ac compressor clutch was obviously ruined (loose, wobbling, with missing bearings) so I had no concerns about damaging the hub/ armature by holding it with a screwdriver during removal of the bolt (8mm original/ 10mm replacement with kit). Old hub/armature wiggled off easily. I was able to torque the new bolt simply by holding the armature in place with my hand.

I got (stupidly) confused about which snap ring to remove. The one you want to focus on runs around the race of the bearing and is over an inch in diameter. It is very easy to access with no special tool required. I got fixated on the very small snap ring directly near the shaft which is back near the seal. This was a significant waste of time.

I pried the old coil off with a claw hammer. Since I had a replacement, damage was not a concern. The four seasons coil has a strong steel frame. It took some pounding on a wood block to get it seated evenly. I was able to do it with any damage to the coil. If I had it to do again, I might pre-drill a hole in a block of wood to go over the shaft, since the plane of the face of the coil extends past the plane of the end of the shaft. I might also use a lubricant.

That's interesting that you purchased clutch assembly P/N 47882; when I search for the appropriate parts for my 2000 SEL Duratech sedan, I get P/N 47874. And it's about 5 times as expensive.

When I look at the application details for your part on rockauto (47882), it says "Taurus: 2001-2005", but when I look at the application details for my supposedly correct part (47874), it says "Taurus: 1999-2000". However, from what I can tell in all these threads, it seems like the clutch assembly for all Gen4 tauruses is the same, and same thing for the compressor.

Is that a false assumption? My existing clutch plate has the 3 knobs on the face with the rubber bushings and the triangular frame. What changed from 2000 to 2001? Would I be able to use your part in my application?

 

Ive never done this job nor ever will attemp it! It has been done without lowering the subframe or disconnecting the compressor. Check "Search".

 

Just did the clutch on my wagon, without dropping the suframe.
Right angle snap ring pliers and being able to work backwards with a mirror are required skills. I just did the pulley assy., mine was totally worn out 189k miles of auto temp cycling, I left the coil in as mine was still working OK
It's a pain job but I didn't want to deal with the subframe and rust.

 

The 3 "knobs" you see are the rubber damping bushings, the repl. one I used didn't have them and fit just fine. Rock Auto 4 seasons clutch is what I used, can't remember the part #

 

From looking at RockAuto's site, they sell a different Four Seasons clutch for the 2000 taurus than they do for models after that. It's the clutch for the models after 2000 that has the hub with no rubber bushings, from the photo here. The clutch for the 2000 taurus has the familiar hub shape shown here.

So if you're saying that the Four Seasons clutch you used in your 2000 taurus had no rubber bushings, you must've used the part specified only for the 2001-2007 taurus. And it's been working?? If so, that would be (sorry for the pun) pretty clutch for my replacement sourcing effort!

Is there a way for you to confirm that you purchased Four Seasons P/N 47882? I'd really appreciate it if it's not too much hassle. Thanks!

 

I just ordered the 47274 per Rocks catalog for my car . One that came in didn't have the rubber bushings on the clutch plate. Some clutchs use them for vibration on engagement.
Just order the correct part for your car. Pictures on those sites can and will vary.

 

Drop the subframe

I needed to replace the A/C clutch because the pulley bearing failed.

Here's my experience:

Vehicle - 2004 Duratec (24v DOHC), 90k miles.

After reading all the debates about dropping the subframe vs 'from the top', I opted to drop the subframe and I'm glad I did. It is way easier than it sounds.

I'll verify and add to some of the steps mentioned above.

* remove the (3) 13mm nuts at the top of the right strut - easier than disconnecting from below.

* The rubber brake line gets tight during the drop. Unbolt (10mm) keeper bracket from the backside of the strut. Watch it carefully.

* As I dropped the engine, it began to hang up on a plastic cover that protects the alternator - removed it with 2 small screws (access this from below).

* I removed only the (2) 18mm subframe bolts on the passenger side (nothing on the driver side). This allowed the clutch bolt to come into view below the frame, but not the entire clutch. About 60% of the clutch plate cleared the frame and that was enough to do the job.

* I removed about 6 small bolts from the black plastic air dam and separated the air dam from the painted bumper cover. This gave me access to the A/C lines near the front tip of the subframe. I had to nudge these to the front so the subframe could drop.

* Watch that large vacuum hose that supplies the power brake booster. It will disconnect as the engine drops, which is ok, but remember to re-attach. Nothing else needed to be removed during the engine drop.

* During the drop, the engine eventually settled hard against the frame - it made contact on the belt tensioner. Removing the tensioner would allow even more drop, but I had enough clearance for the job without removing it. At this point, the jack was no longer supporting the subframe/engine weight.

* My clutch looked a lot like the photo above - completely destroyed, 3 rubbers completely melted away. As a result, after removing the 8mm bolt, the outter plate kinda fell off in pieces. The snap ring was easy to remove, but the pulley wouldn't slide off. I had to use some emery cloth to clean up the shaft, since it had some crusty residue on the outer portion probably due to all the melted / ground up rubber?

* I levered the field coil off with a Stanley flat bar (Wonderbar).

* I got the replacement parts from Autozone (47882). Seems like all these kits are made by Four Seasons, but are re-branded as Murray (O'Reilly), or Evercool (Autozone). They all use the same part number - 47882. $65.99. NAPA price was $92.00

* The new outer plate did NOT have the rubbers, it is a thinner design. The kit came with shims, new snap ring, plate, pulley and field coil (and instructions - disregard one section on aligning the field coil pin, that doesn't apply to us). The snap ring is supposed to be installed with the 'bevel' outward. Look closely, it kinda hard to see it.

Total time for the job: 3-4 hours, next time I could do it in 2.

Doug

 

I needed to replace the A/C clutch because the pulley bearing failed.

Here's my experience:

Vehicle - 2004 Duratec (24v DOHC), 90k miles.

After reading all the debates about dropping the subframe vs 'from the top', I opted to drop the subframe and I'm glad I did. It is way easier than it sounds.

I'll verify and add to some of the steps mentioned above.

* remove the (3) 13mm nuts at the top of the right strut - easier than disconnecting from below.

* The rubber brake line gets tight during the drop. Unbolt (10mm) keeper bracket from the backside of the strut. Watch it carefully.

* As I dropped the engine, it began to hang up on a plastic cover that protects the alternator - removed it with 2 small screws (access this from below).

* I removed only the (2) 18mm subframe bolts on the passenger side (nothing on the driver side). This allowed the clutch bolt to come into view below the frame, but not the entire clutch. About 60% of the clutch plate cleared the frame and that was enough to do the job.

* I removed about 6 small bolts from the black plastic air dam and separated the air dam from the painted bumper cover. This gave me access to the A/C lines near the front tip of the subframe. I had to nudge these to the front so the subframe could drop.

* Watch that large vacuum hose that supplies the power brake booster. It will disconnect as the engine drops, which is ok, but remember to re-attach. Nothing else needed to be removed during the engine drop.

* During the drop, the engine eventually settled hard against the frame - it made contact on the belt tensioner. Removing the tensioner would allow even more drop, but I had enough clearance for the job without removing it. At this point, the jack was no longer supporting the subframe/engine weight.

* My clutch looked a lot like the photo above - completely destroyed, 3 rubbers completely melted away. As a result, after removing the 8mm bolt, the outter plate kinda fell off in pieces. The snap ring was easy to remove, but the pulley wouldn't slide off. I had to use some emery cloth to clean up the shaft, since it had some crusty residue on the outer portion probably due to all the melted / ground up rubber?

* I levered the field coil off with a Stanley flat bar (Wonderbar).

* I got the replacement parts from Autozone (47882). Seems like all these kits are made by Four Seasons, but are re-branded as Murray (O'Reilly), or Evercool (Autozone). They all use the same part number - 47882. $65.99. NAPA price was $92.00

* The new outer plate did NOT have the rubbers, it is a thinner design. The kit came with shims, new snap ring, plate, pulley and field coil (and instructions - disregard one section on aligning the field coil pin, that doesn't apply to us). The snap ring is supposed to be installed with the 'bevel' outward. Look closely, it kinda hard to see it.

Total time for the job: 3-4 hours, next time I could do it in 2.

Doug

Followed this method.....done in under 3 hrs, including running to get the new clutch

 

Hey all. I am in the middle of removing the clutch and after pulling off the rooter and coil I noticed a little ring inside. I looks like the tip of the shaft the pully goes on broke off. Am I screwed here? Do I have to change out the entire compressor now?

 

Sorry ... gonna need a photo to understand what you're saying

 

Well I'll be starting this in the morning, all the rubber is gone from the clutch hub. When is the easiest time to remove the belt? Before or after the craddle is lowered?

 

Back from the dead, I know, but why start a new thread.

My 2002 Taurus has a AC compressor problem. If I leabe the AC off, I'm fine. If I idle, and the AC is switched on, I get the belt whine. By accident the AC turned on as I was driving and I could smell the belt burning.

I'm trying to diagnose the cause of the problem. CLUTCH or Compressor?

At my last oil change, the mechanic drove the car around the block, and left it running for me. To my surprise he had the cold air5 blowing. I shut it off. So, the compressor will blow cold air.

I've read through this thread and others, and will take a look in the light tomorrow. I, like others, don't really have a budget for this so, I hope it's something I can manage.

I've removed and rebuilt my starter, replaced, brakes, waterpump, so, a bit more than a novice.

Any thoughts?

 

Check your owners manual and pull all ac related fuses, relays and diodes (as long as they're not powering anything else) until you have the $, time and weather to deal with this.