I put Gabriel assembly struts( w/springs ) from auto zone for $300. works good. for creeking sounds you need new ball joints about $25 each at AZ. replaced tie rod ends less than $20 each easy job. struts and ball joints can be a real pain in the ass replace on the Taurus. the rear shocks I replaced on my wagon was a piece of cake.

 

I don't get an creaking noises, I get more of a knocking noise when going over small bumps. May as well replace the ball joints since I'm in there anyways? Struts don't seem too hard to replace, I've watched videos on it. However hardest part seems to be getting the strut back into the axle when you put the new one in (jack up the axle to push them together).

 

noise over bumps, you need struts. I watch the 1aauto video and it looked easy...it was a nightmare, especially the driver side, the hard part is trying to get the ball joint stud out of the lower control arm, you have to lower the subframe to get enough clearance. reinstalling the strut was a pain, banging the bell out of the knuckle to pop it back in place.

 

Found these: 1995 - 2005 Mercury Sable Mercury Sable 4 Door Sedan Rear Strut & Spring Pair at 1AAuto.com

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/shocks_struts/Mercury/Sable/1ASSP00017/389997/2000

Good parts? Never bought from 1aauto.

 

I would source some KYB Strut Plus assemblies for the front and rear and swap them in if you want a stock ride. RockAuto.com has good deals and good warranty reliability.

 

I don't mind either having a stock ride or having a smoother than stock ride. I will sacrifice body roll and handling for comfort. I don't drive this like a race car.

 

You live up north I guess?

 

Do you know of any shocks/struts that are made for a smoother ride?

 

The aftermarket stuff is supposed to match OEM ride quality. Monroe, Moog, KYB, etc. Not sure you can get much mushier than 4th Gen suspension Taurus/Sable sedans. Notice how the rear of the cars is always draggin the ground...

 

Haha, you do have a point! Actually my sable has a pretty high up rear end I noticed today. Thanks for the input. Whats the least expensive?

 

I put KYB assemblies in the rear of my 2004 SES and it raised the rear end quite a bit from stock. They are also fairly stiff, not like stock.

 

Several on here don't care for Monroe Quickstruts (esp. on the front), but I've used them on several gen3s (front and rear) with no issues. I wouldn't recommend the Monroe Econo-matics, but the Quickstruts which are equipped with Sensa-trac struts.

 

I imagine Monroe has fixed the QuickStrut issue they were having in the 1st generation days by now. Too bad you missed out on the summer deal they usually have.

 

I just learned I have complete maintenance records from 2000-2009. I just have to go to the dealer 20 miles away to pick them up, not bad! They won't mail them to me, don't know why. Won't even mail them to the previous owner.

So this is the question I have - should I replace the ball joints while I'm replacing the front suspension? They don't have any of the symptoms of bad ball joints like people complain of, but while I have the shock/strut out, why not replace them? Please read the next paragraph before replying!

Now once I get my hands on the maintenance records, if the ball joints have been replaced before, would that change wether I should replace them or not?

Thanks. Last thing, what are the recommended brands for struts/springs that are closest to stock? Nothing more stiff than stock please.

 

http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/promotions/Monroe_Shocktober_Rebate_US_WEB.pdf

 

Thanks a ton! Only problem is I'm not going to actually buy them until January! I get a large check then and that's going to pay for this! So I'll be looking for deals then.

Again, should I replace the ball joints if I'm going to be doing the shocks/struts anyways? Also should I replace the front and rear, even if I think only the front struts are bad?

 

I would recommend replacing the ball joints because you have already have everything apart and you will probably damage them anyways.
Quick struts from Monroe or KYB (not much difference, anything will feel stiff compared to 13 year old suspension)
Ball joints from Moog

 

Well my local Dobbs has a special right now that you get any struts replaced for just the parts price. Labor is free! Of course you have to pay for the $85 4 wheel alignment I guess. I'm thinking about getting front and rear done because they have the monroe special buy 4 get one free. So I'd pay $550 + $85 alignment, then I get $136 back from the deal.

Thoughts? This lasts through the end of october.

My only reasoning not to do it is I really don't have much money to spend until January when I get a few big fat checks... Maybe I could just have the front two done, but it seems like a waste. I do have the original, motorcraft suspension. I might as well replace the back struts as well? It makes sense I guess for $136 more for the back.. It's not bad at all.

 

anyone?

 

Parts installed for free is a pretty good deal though I would wonder what the catch is.

I would replace all 4 struts and springs if you can swing it.

 

The catch is you have to pay for an alignment ($85). That's it.

If I had the money I would do it. Dobbs apparently has this deal every time Monroe offers the buy 3 get one free deal. I may wait until next time the deal comes around. Seems to happen 2-3 times per year.

My struts make a knocking noise going over bumps. I've been told this is the struts going bad, but is it essential I replace them ASAP? To me it seems like I don't. Please tell me if I'm wrong.

 

Struts control rebound. if they are knocking and crashing and bottoming out, you are going to cup your tires and reduce your braking ability.

 

I don't think they are bottoming out though. It is really hard to explain what they do. I will try my best. I feel like you wouldn't be able to hear the noise in a video, but maybe I will try. It seems to be noticeable only when the car has been sitting for a while and goes away with steady driving.

What I hear is a slight nocking noise when I go over bumps. It isn't super loud, but it almost seems like the noise is caused from the rebound itself. Like when the strut is open as far as normal or something. I don't think that's it considering the bumps are small, but its definitely not bottoming out. The knocking happens a lot while going over bumps. It's a continuous yet randomly patterned knocking noise. It started about 15k miles ago and I noticed the ride of the car had become much more rigid. It is weird because it is like instead of becoming more soft like they normally do over time it is the other way around? Or is that not how it usually happens. I will try and see if it works on the video tomorrow morning.

 

Struts can fail in lot of ways. They can firm up and quit control rebound. They can loosen up to the point that only the springs are doing the job. They can knock when the hydraulic oil leaks out.

 

Okay. My tires were put on 40k miles ago. They really were not taken care of and were not rotated enough. How often should they be rotated? I try and do it every oil change. About 5k miles since I have had the car.

I think I will wait on these. I am going to wait until the deal comes around again. Or if I randomly come upon some extra cash! Or do you think it is worth doing 2 of them now while the labor is free.

I have heard you run the risk with messing up the ball joints so they will have to be replaced during a front strut replacement. Is it likely that even a mechanic could do this?

 

Okay. My tires were put on 40k miles ago. They really were not taken care of and were not rotated enough. How often should they be rotated? I try and do it every oil change. About 5k miles since I have had the car.

I think I will wait on these. I am going to wait until the deal comes around again. Or if I randomly come upon some extra cash! Or do you think it is worth doing 2 of them now while the labor is free.

I have heard you run the risk with messing up the ball joints so they will have to be replaced during a front strut replacement. Is it likely that even a mechanic could do this?

I rotate mine every 7,500 and have gotten 90K miles on Michelin MX4's.

I just replaced my rear strut assemblies where the rattle was coming from for now. I'm doing the fronts in the spring. Obviously, the rear doesn't have ball joints to be concerned about. I'd do the rears where the noise is coming from for now but will you still get the free labor without purchasing 3 and get one free? Choice is yours. You know what you can and can't afford.

 

The fronts are where the noise is coming from.

Yes you still get free labor, this month only. If you didn't, I would be buying 3 and getting 1 free! haha!

 

The fronts are where the noise is coming from.

Yes you still get free labor, this month only. If you didn't, I would be buying 3 and getting 1 free! haha!

Oh...the front. Have you checked the roll bar bushings and end links to see if that may be where the clunking is coming from? That will cause creeking as well if the bushings are dry.

 

No creaking. Original suspension at 134k miles though. I have not checked. I will when I lift up the car to change the trans fluid.

 

From your first post... "It creaks sometimes and makes some knocking noises other times. The ride has slowly gone from good to bad."

That's why I mentioned creaking....