Read the no-start sticky at the top maintenance/repair forum.

When you turn the key to on (not to start) see if you can hear the fuel pump prime. You may need a helper open the gas cap and listen. You will hear a mechanical pump noise. Do this 5 times in a row waiting 2 seconds between cycles. It should prime (and you will hear the noise) EVERY time you turn the key from off to on.


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Read the no-start sticky at the top maintenance/repair forum.

When you turn the key to on (not to start) see if you can hear the fuel pump prime. You may need a helper open the gas cap and listen. You will hear a mechanical pump noise. Do this 5 times in a row waiting 2 seconds between cycles. It should prime (and you will hear the noise) EVERY time you turn the key from off to on.


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So if I don't hear this noise every time, then that means my fuel pump is going out?

From the symptoms, any other things it could be?

 

Also, after priming even a weak pump five times, there should be enough pressure to start the engine. I've narrowed down starting problems a few times this way. Not very scientific, but it works.

 

So, I tested the fuel pump in this mannor, and every single time you can hear it engaging. So I wonder if it could still be a sporadic fuel pump problem, or what direction to start looking in next.

Also, something to add into the fray. I've noticed over the last week or 2 of driving the car, that when I pull into the driveway/parking spot, and put the car in Park from Drive, the radio cuts off while shifting, and then starts up again when the car is in park. Do you think these 2 issues could be related in any way?

 

The radio thing sounds like it might be the transmission range sensor (TRS) that detects what gear you're in. It will mute the radio when it detects you are in reverse. May or may not be normal.

I guess I would be focusing on the battery since jumpstarting was helping it. Get the battery load tested somewhere (preferably besides AutoZone).

 

The radio thing sounds like it might be the transmission range sensor (TRS) that detects what gear you're in. It will mute the radio when it detects you are in reverse. May or may not be normal.

I guess I would be focusing on the battery since jumpstarting was helping it. Get the battery load tested somewhere (preferably besides AutoZone).

I just replaced the battery less than 2 weeks ago, and it has happened once since replacing the battery, so I don't think it's that(would mean 2 bad batteries causing same issue)

As for the TRS, it's doing it in every gear and not just reverse, so I'm wondering if there is something wrong with that. I know they aren't too expensive, and not very hard to change.

I just wondered if there was any way those 2 issues could be related. I really don't feel like spending 100 bucks to have someone hook it up and see if the computer gives out any codes from the last time it wouldn't start, but I might be at that point. Local shop near me told me 90 to hook up and then diagnose.

 

Sure sounds like the TRS failing.

 

It could be a sticking Idle Control Air Valve. Next time it won't start, slightly press the gass pedal to open the throttle plate. If it starts and if it dies when you fit the foot off the pedal it is most likely the ICA Valve.

 

It could be a sticking Idle Control Air Valve. Next time it won't start, slightly press the gass pedal to open the throttle plate. If it starts and if it dies when you fit the foot off the pedal it is most likely the ICA Valve.

I will give that a try as well, but when it dies I've tried starting it barely pressing the gas, pumping the gas pedal, etc. Everytime it has happened, jumping it has started it, but I don't know if thats it, or it's me pumping the gas and starting it over and over.

Next time it happens I'm not using the jumper cables, and doing everything else I can first.

 

And you just changed the fuel filter when??

 

It's my wife's car, so she says the last time she changed the oil, but I don't know WHY I haven't checked that myself, lol what a dolt. I'll look at that when I get home.

 

Yeah, don't assume the battery is good. Sometimes you do get bad one off the shelf.

Something else you should consider are the terminal connections. If you put the jumper cables on and it squeezes the terminals (because they're loose) then you would get a better connection and the car might start. When you replaced the battery did you clean the terminals and the battery posts (you still should clean the posts even on a brand new battery)?

If the TRS senses you're in gear, it will disable the starter. However you said your car still turns over, so I don't think the TRS is related to the no start.

 

Yeah, don't assume the battery is good. Sometimes you do get bad one off the shelf.

Something else you should consider are the terminal connections. If you put the jumper cables on and it squeezes the terminals (because they're loose) then you would get a better connection and the car might start. When you replaced the battery did you clean the terminals and the battery posts (you still should clean the posts even on a brand new battery)?

If the TRS senses you're in gear, it will disable the starter. However you said your car still turns over, so I don't think the TRS is related to the no start.

When I replaced the battery, I cleaned the terminals well and put on new terminal connections. They are really tight and don't budge a bit when trying to wiggle them.

Yeah that's whats so odd, it gets a good turnover for as many times as you want, never clicks, or loses power turning over like when dealing with a spark issue. This is what is leading me more to a fuel issue, but I could be wrong.

 

The positive terminal on the battery is larger. If the top of the clamp isn't flush, then you need to loosen the bolt and tap on it gently to expand the clamp. You must have gotten a set that are identical rather than having larger/smaller clamps for + and -.

If the wires have corrosion on them (dark colored), then you need to replace the cables.

It's becoming apparent that you have some very high resistance connections that are causing too much of a voltage drop between the battery post and the starter/power distribution center.

Could you post a picture of your battery and terminals?

 

 

Yeah, you're going to have to replace that positive cable. The wires are corroded.

 

Yeah, you're going to have to replace that positive cable. The wires are corroded.

Do you think those terminals will work ok once I get a new battery cable? Also, the ground cables look pretty good? I think I'll just replace the positive. Any suggestion on guage, brand, and length? So many options

 

Those terminals are really only designed to hold one cable at a time, so I would recommend against using them. There are better aftermarket terminals that are designed to hold multiple cables. I would use 6 gauge wire or larger (you might need 4 ga for the starter cable).

Read this: http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/98-...m/forum/98-solutions-common-problems-how-articles/119948-big-3-walkthrough.html

 

Put a voltmeter across the negative terminal and the actual positive wire and have someone crank the engine. Look at the voltage while cranking. It shouldn't to much lower than ten volts.

My 2006 had a weak battery but it would easily crank the engine over, but the crank time to start was long. Turned out to be the battery not supplying enough voltage to the fuel pump. I almost replaced the fuel pump.

 

So what was your fix? The battery or the positive cable? I just have serious doubts about it being just the battery due to having one that "tested" good, but was under warranty, so I switched it out for a brand new one and the same problem happened again.

 

The fix was to replace the battery. Check the voltage while cranking and that should tell the story. I would put some dielectric grease on the connection once you get it fixed up. I don,t like the way the connection looks.