sensor 1 is the one closer to the engine (in the exhaust manifold) - this one is needed for proper engine functioning (A/F ratio)
bank one is probably in front of the car (someone correct me)
it should be under a heat shield (or going through it) covering the manifold
Advance usually loans a special tubular wrench for such things (soak it for a few hours in WD40 or something similar)

 

Bank one is the FIREWALL side if the engine[/B].

WD40 wont do much good. Either PB Blaster, or a 50/50 mix of acetone and trans fluid (works best).

What was the exact code? Have you checked the electrical connector for damage / corrosion, etc? Codes dont tell you what part to replace, codes tell you where to start a detailed, systematic diagnosis.

 

The heater codes can be a slippery slope. Last time i had heater codes
on my 97 it turned out to be a PCM issue. Essentially, the PCM monitors
the current draw of the O2 heaters while there on. The drivers for the
O2 heaters are also in the PCM. If the PCM senses lack of current flow
when the heaters are turned on briefly when the car first starts, it
will throw a code. So, you could have a good O2 sensor and still get
a code. You could try swapping the bank 1 to bank 2 sensors and see
if the code changes (though this might be a pain on a tec). This would
verify that its not the sensor itself and not the wiring or PCM with
buying a new sensor.

You could also try to disconnect and reset the connector going to
the O2 sensor and see if it makes any difference.

If you do end up getting a new O2, you might as well buy a pair of
them to keep the banks balanced.

 

I did buy two new sensors and plan to replace them both, I do that with headlights and tail lights, one goes out replace them both. My big question is how to get at bank 1 sensor for an R/R. By the way thank you for the quick response to my question. I did checked all the wiring (what i could see) to make sure nothing was chaffing or burnt through.

 

Make sure you check the HEGO fuse first. If you want you can ohm the heater wires and confirm it's the sensor that went bad. Resistance should be about 6 ohms I think.

Rear O2 sensor replacment may require removal of the cowl and/or the upper intake manifold.