this JUST happened to me ran down to the ford house and picked up a cap for the reservoir as instructed by luke (spridget) and hasnt happened again. if the cap isnt holding pressure the coolant boils before it should. I also got a thermostat just in case and its been a while since its been changed so what the hell.

 

With a bad reservoit cap, there is no pressure in the system so the coolant will boil. Pressure raises the boiling point. This is why you don't open the cap on a hot engine.

I thought this was mentioned in another thread.. dejavu?

A bad thermostat would cause the engine to overheat if stuck closed.

 

It's just the cap for the coolant overflow bottle? or the cap for the radiator? Or both? I actually just replaced the thermostat and flushed my coolant about a month ago.

Now that you mention that i guess it makes sense. But the overflow tube is always open and it seems that it would always be releasing pressure out of the overflow bottle?

Does anyone have any input about the knock sensor?

 

There is no cap for the radiator, IIRC. The coolant overflow bottle is the "top" of the system, if you will, and is where the cap is located. Replace that cap.

JR

 

There is no cap for the radiator, IIRC. The coolant overflow bottle is the "top" of the system, if you will, and is where the cap is located. Replace that cap.

JR
[/b]

I think the 92 had a radiator cap.

I can't remember for sure but it seems like my 99 had a radiator cap and the coolant tank was just a normal screw on cap

Mike
B)

 

The coolant bottle has a clip on plastic cap, i don't even think there's a rubber seal in the top of the cap. My radiator also has a metal safety cap that screws on. I did **** with both caps recently and they both seemed like they were on tight but i'll replace them anyways, probably $10 total.

 

You just need to do the radiator cap

Mike
B)

 

Rock on! i'll take a trip up to napa tomorrow and pick up a radiator cap and knock sensor. How hard is the knock sensor to replace? Also if im getting KOER code 225 then it's pretty safe to assume the sensor is bad correct? i doubt there's a wiring issue ;/

 

The knock sensor may be reporting because you are getting it so hot it can't retard enough to stop the detonation.

I would do the cap first and see if you still have problems.

Mike
B)

 

I replaced the cap yesterday and added coolant and it didn't seem to have any problems. The thing is though, the gauge never read above the "A" in normal even with the bad cap. I know it's an idiot gauge but it didn't seem to be running warmer than usual. With the new cap even after 20 minutes of driving the gauge was only at the "L". It was only 30 degrees this morning when i left for work so i guess that could have a lot to do with it. Makes me worry that the new t-stat i put in is stuck open maybe? i dont know what the running temp on a gen2 sho is though either.

Regardless it doesn't seem to have any problems now and im not getting any knocking. Thanks for your help!

 

More than likely the gauge sender is bad. If the t-stat were stuck open then it would take forever to get up to where it is warm. Are you getting good heat out of the heater?

 

Yeah the heat works great. To my knowledge the gauge sender is good. When i was having overheating problems it correctly showed the temp before and after it was fixed. It just runs way cooler now, any idea why it would run that much cooler except for the weather change?

 

Well unless you know the actual temperature the coolant is running you really don't know what it is. It's possible to that you may have put in a 180F to replace a 192F one.