Usually they don't come with new hardware. Since owning both a 98 and 99 we have discovered that the sliding pins are a major problem with these cars, they tend to get corrosion built up on them and don't allow the caliper to slide. I would check those and either clean or replace them. Be sure to lube them well before reinstalling. I use anti-seize compound on mine and that seems to help.
Also be careful when using any kind of lube to not get it on the rotor or the pads. I would also remove the caliper and clean it before replacing, although they are not to expensive, spending a little time cleaning and making sure everything is lubed and able to slide properly is less expensive the replacing a caliper.

 

Good to hear that you're planning on replacing both calipers anyway. As a general rule of thumb, if you replace something on one side you replace it on the other side too (at least as far as brakes go). You want to make sure that braking stays even from left to right.

Places usually sell reman brake calipers a couple of different ways. You'll see terms like unloaded, semi-loaded, and fully loaded. That refers to the number of things that come with the basic caliper. The fully loaded caliper will usually come with the caliper brackets, slides, pads, etc. Everything you need to replace the caliper and go. Similarly unloaded means it's just a basic caliper, no brackets or pads. Semi-loaded is somewhere in the middle. Usually the description will tell you what is or is not included.

 

^+1 Loaded calipers also usually include new pads as well. Easiest way to replace all suspect components at once.

 

Although it's NOT all components. A hanging caliper can also be caused by a collapsed/collapsing rubber flex hose. I've had it happen on 2 cars before where the lines were no good and it was freezing the caliper wearing the pads out and overheating/warping the rotor. That's just cheap insurance and routine maintenance that gets overlooked, to get those lines.

 

^+1, lol.

 

You are correct John. I was referring to caliper-only issues, flex hoses get overlooked too often...

 

Thanks for replies.

I'm leaning toward replacing calipers as I can't bleed the other side and the car had some front end rust when I bought. (It hasn't decreased)

Are they easy to change? Any doc on the site or wiki?

 

Any documentation anywhere about changing calipers and bleeding brakes?????

Thanks!

 

Drop by Advance Auto Parts, and flip though the Haynes manual on the shelf. It should be there..

 

Might pick up a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for your model year at a parts store. Both jobs are easy-peasy, but long to explain. Chapter#9 in both books.

 

I changed the brake pads and rotors on my 99 Taurus last month. I am 99% positive those were the original parts. The fluid also looked like it was never changed. I am surprised that I had no issues with calipers or pins so far...

 

Thanks for replies!

Well, I changed calipers, got rotors turned and bled brakes.

Everything was fine for 2 days. Then on a 4 mile drive yesterday, yes only 4 miles, I smelled brakes and then saw SMOKE.

Haven't had a chance to take wheel off yet and look further, but master cylinder is full and no leaks.

Anybody have any ideas?

 

Start inspecting.....

 

Did you inspect the rubber hoses as I said in post 5? Disconnect it from the caliper and pump the brake as if you were bleeding it. Barely any fluid and a hard pedal = clogged/bad rubber hose = little flow to/from the caliper = hanging caliper. How did that side bleed out when you put on the new caliper?

 

Yes, I inspected hoses and they looked good, no cracks or leaks.

I didn't pump brake after removing hose, but there was less fluid flowing out from the right side when I initially disconnected from caliper. Didn't give it much thought, as I had done left side first and figured it was due to less fluid in master cylinder.

After installing new caliper, bleeding on that side went OK, similar to first side. A decent amount of fluid came out each time.

Did you replace the hose from the caliper to connection at top of wheel well, or all the way back to master cylinder?

 

Replace the flexible hose from the top of the wheel well to the caliper itself.

Reuse the crush washer from the old one, don't use the new crush washer (what bolts on to the caliper to hold the flex brake line on).

Get the proper size flare nut wrench to snap loose the brake line fitting. If it strips, get vice grips.

 

Thanks for reply and advice!!!!

I ordered hose from Rock Auto (no one locally stocks anything any more) and installed with no problem.

Sprayed bolts with PB before and coated with antiseize after.

Bled brakes and drove about 50 miles locally with no issues.

I'm just baffled because when I replaced calipers, everything was fine for a few days.