I wasn't able to get mine to compress using a dice. Its only $5 at harbor freight.

I just rent the auto zone tool that will compress while it twists. Even opening the bleeder didn't work for me while using the dice. I've had it work with other calipers though, just not my Ford ones.

 

Interesting. I've always used a piece of wood and a C clamp. I must not own anything that need twisted.

Are the 2001 Taurus / Sable straight push ins or twist to compress?

 

^ Twist on the rears.

 

I picked up the Harbor Freight version and it didn't work very well. I had better luck with using a set of needle nose pliers compared to the cube. After that though I just started renting the Autozone kit for rear brake jobs. Alternatively I think Harbor Freight sells a kit similar to the Autozone loan-a-tool for like $45, it's one of the few Harbor Freight tools with consistently good reviews.

 

I can't speak for PRE 2013 model Taurus/Sable but apparently the twisting the piston is fairly new technology. At least new to me, my previous Dodge Durango had the rear discs that fit over the hub and had basically a mini drum assembly inside the rotor hat.

 

My '01 Lincoln Continental had twist-in rear calipers with standard compressing front calipers.

 

My 84 Mustang SVO has twist in (integrated parking brake)...so it's a fairly common way of handling the parking brake duties...

 

I found this little tool the other day when picking up my Calipers. It is basically a big metal hollow dice with tabs for different size calipers on fairly common size vehicles. It was $13 and some change after tax. I know of at least three vehicles it can be used on and the tab facing the camera should work for the 13 Taurus. Insert the appropriate tab on the caliper and with a 3 or 4 inch 3/8 drive socket extension bar and ratchet turn as necessary to flush the piston. This step is usually necessary when replacing brake pads as the new pads are usually higher then the ones being replaced. Front pistons can usually be pressed in by a C clamp and twisting the C clamp with the OLD pad to flush the piston.

NOTE: Removing the Master Cylinder cap will make it easier but be ready for some minor brake fluid loss....adjust clean up rag accordingly.

Don't push the dirty fluid from the caliper back into the brake lines. When you push the caliper back in, open the bleeder screw. The fluid in the caliper is the dirtiest in the system. Let it out, and while you are at it, flush the rest out too. It's so easy and you are already doing it. Your brake lines/ABS will thank you in the long run.

 

Good advise, not only because of the dirty fluid, but because then you are not <trying> to push the fluid all the way to the front of the car making it harder to compress the caliper. My experience with those square tools is not a good one. Unless it's a fairly clean caliper they never want to compress well. You would be much better off with this tool.....

http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...oan-a-tools/disc-brake-caliper-tool/oem-disc-brake-caliper-tool-set/298604_0_0/

Any Advance Auto or Auto Zone will have that on their loan a tool program. Saves you time, aggravation, and dirty looks from neighbors if you swear when things don't go right:rolleyes2:

 

Interesting you should mention that because my plan is to flush the old fluid totally out and get totally new fluid in. I read some pretty common forum recommendations to flush the fluid every one-two years. I will be about 22 months so close enough for me. I did also suck up and get the kit from Harbor Freight I know of at least three vehicles it can be used on my Taurus G/f Honda Accord and her dads Buick Lucerne.

 

Well done!