Yes it is right under the throttle body

 

Thanks

 

I removed the throttle body to make it easier. If you're replacing the pvc make the notched tool to remove and install it from a short piece of 3/4 pvc pipe as mentioned. Works great.

 

Or, just use what is your tool box. And I do not have to mix PCV and PVC, as it confuses this old coot. :lol2:

See pic.

-chart-

 

Smokey,

The PCV valve is located in one of two places. Some are directly under the throttle body and easy to get to, the other is up under the upper intake manifold and is a real chore to change. Plenty of info on this board to help you. If you had all those gaskets changed then you need to isolate where the problem is. To do that you need a code reader that has the live data function. You need to monitor the Long Term and Short Term Fuel Trim levels. Since you have the 171 and 174 codes your LTFT levels are probably around 22% or higher. What this means is your engine is getting too much air for the amount of gas it is getting. Your computer is trying to correct this by adding more fuel but still can't get it within specs. So even though it is saying you are running lean, you are still burning more gas than you should. If you can get a reader, set it to show live data and look at you fuel trim levels. Rev your engine to 2000-2500 RPM. If the levels drop down to acceptable levels, this will confirm you have a vacuum leak. If this is the case, you need to isolate your vacuum system between the engine and all the other systems. On your drivers firewall is a small box with hoses attached. This is the vacuum distribution box. Disconnect the large hose coming off the manifold to this box and plug it. Start the car and watch the trim levels again, if they now come down, your problem is in either your EVAPs system or your Heating and AC controls in the dash. (Do not drive vehicle with this hose detached.) If the levels do not come down then you have a leak around the engine. You can then examine all your hoses and PCV connections and do a propane leak check (you can find out how by doing a search.) If when you did the rev test your trim levels did not change look at fuel pressure, O2 sensors, fuel filter and maybe others. 171 and 174 codes are common and the fix is usually fairly easy. The hard part is locating the leak. Hope this helps.

Ed

 

Smokey, first thing to check with lean code(s) on a 98tec is the pcv valve upper u or j-shaped hose to manifold. On your car it sits directly below the tb (throttle body). For easiest access, remove tb and check/replace valve and hose. Iirc, exact replacement hose is available at advance auto.

 

Good call.
I might add:

Vacuum leaks include any "unmetered air" so anything from the air cleaner to the engine are included. I bought a used car, the '03 Sable, and found the hose clamps to the accordian were left completely loose. Apparently the air cleaner had just been replaced, and they must have loosened them to make it easier. Anyway, that and the clean air supply to the valve covers may be missed as sources of "unmetered air". And then, vacuum hose to brake booster, and such.

-chart-

 

First of all, I want to thank everyone for their help and suggestions. I'm an old carburetor and points with condenser guy, so this new stuff, even though it's been around 30 yrs. or so is still kind of intimidating, but with the help from all of you, I think I can figure this out without taking it to the shop. Again, thanks for everyone's help.

 

First of all, I want to thank everyone for their help and suggestions. I'm an old carburetor and points with condenser guy, so this new stuff, even though it's been around 30 yrs. or so is still kind of intimidating, but with the help from all of you, I think I can figure this out without taking it to the shop. Again, thanks for everyone's help.

Once you get used to the new stuff, it's actually a lot simpler than carburetors. Those things were no fun.

 

^+1!!!

 

Carburetors are more fun when they're working properly. Otherwise they're just a major PIA. My dad and I went through three of 'em on his Mustang. Finally got a properly rebuilt Autolite 4100 and once I got it all tuned-up it felt like a 100+ hp gain. As an added benefit, the car no longer smells going down the highway! If you really get into it and want to mess with the distributor springs, vacuum advances, and jets for a broad torque peak, you will agree EFI is easier sometimes!

 

Thanks to everyone for their help with my car. The problem was what many had suggested, it was the pcv valve hose leaking from a hole or tear. I couldn't find one locally, not even from the Ford dealer, so I made my own from a section of 3/8" fuel line and some 5/16" steel brake line. I used my tubing bender to shape the steel tube the same as the old formed hose but about 5/8" shorter on each end. Then lubed up the rubber hose and pushed over the steel line with enough rubber line on each end to plug onto the pcv and the metal line to the intake.
Thanks again.

 

Sounds like a great (and cheap) fix!!

 

Congrats, MacGyver, lol! You may not have this problem again with the bent steel line as these hoses normally tear, rot or collapse in the bend due to exposure to oil vapors and residue. Good idea! Smokeyb97 ain't smoky no more, lol!