Remove the cowl on the back and reach around to get them. If you have the Vulcan engines, they shouldn't be hard to get at all.

 

I have both an 03 and an 04 Taurus. Both have 3.0L engines in them. What are some tips for getting to the 3 rear spark plugs?

Thanks in advance, Jim
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I have an 04...you DON'T even have to remove the cowl...or the UIM...just reach around back when the engine is cool....if you can unplug the boot from the plug...then with a couple of extensions and a spark plug socket...you'll have hardly any trouble...I was able to reach the middle and drivers side plug( #2 & #3) from the drivers side...and the passenger side plug (#1) from the passenger side...when putting in the new plug...put it in the spark plug socket...start it by hand...attach the wrench and extension if necessary and torque it. I found it harder to pull the boot off the back plugs than changing the plug itself. Of course use anti-seize on the threads and dielectirc grease in the wire boots.

 

I have a 2004 with the Vulcan engine and here is what I learned to get the plugs on the fire wall side of the engine.

Remove the rubber tube between the air filter box and the throttle body - this allows for easy access to #2 and #3.

I had a lot of trouble with #1 ( passenger side). There is a heat shield shaped like a half a box (about 3" x 4") above the plug which made access hard. By removing that half box it was do-able to get # 1 reaching behind the engine from the drivers side. It helped to have someone on the passengers side to act as my eyes.

My engine has 80k miles and the plug gap was very large and the electrodes looked warn. Much worse than I have seen on other engines. This may improve the long starts.

Rick

 

fredericksw has the best tip. Unscrew one of the hose clamps in the air intake hose right around the MAF, and unclamp the air filter housing and just move that entire section of your intake out of the car.

As far as getting at #1, you should get yourself a U-joint attachment for your ratchet. Should run you less than $10.

 

Do you mean the Universal Impact Joint Set as follows:

3 Piece Universal Impact Joint Set

Thank you

 

The #1 plug was the biggest headache for sure. I couldn't pull the wire off the plug from the passenger side... I had to pull it off from the drivers side...BUT I found it impossible to thread the new plug from the drivers side... It had to put it in from the passenger side...I had to put the plug in the spark plug socket and attach an extension to the socket to use as a handle to be able to turn it & start it by hand.

This was my first plug change on this car & I got the entire job done in 45 mins without removing anything...except some skin from my knuckles :lol2: but maybe I just got small hands :dunno:

 

I have an 04...you DON'T even have to remove the cowl...or the UIM...just reach around back when the engine is cool....if you can unplug the boot from the plug...then with a couple of extensions and a spark plug socket...you'll have hardly any trouble...I was able to reach the middle and drivers side plug( #2 & #3) from the drivers side...and the passenger side plug (#1) from the passenger side...when putting in the new plug...put it in the spark plug socket...start it by hand...attach the wrench and extension if necessary and torque it. I found it harder to pull the boot off the back plugs than changing the plug itself. Of course use anti-seize on the threads and dielectirc grease in the wire boots.
[/b]

+1 to the anti-seeze and dielectric grease. Many folks don't do this. On the iron blocks it's not as big of a deal, however.....on the aluminum ones....it can make all the difference later on when you're back under there trying to get them back out again.

Thanks for the post. I haven't looked around under the hood too much yet to see how hard it will be to change....sounds easy.

 

The only other suggestion I could give is this...BE CAREFUL pulling the wires off the BACK plugs...I've been reading alot of posts of people busting off thier EGR hoses.

 

i took of the UIM to do mine + dpfe sensor, my buddys a ford mechanic and he showed me what to do and had it off in less than 15 minutes.

 

i took of the UIM to do mine + dpfe sensor, my buddys a ford mechanic and he showed me what to do and had it off in less than 15 minutes.
[/b]

He's got a Vulcan - removing the UIM (or the cowl) just to change the plugs shouldn't even be considered an option on the Vulcan.

Things around the #1 plug must have changed in 2004 - that's the easiest rear one on the earlier cars. You just have to deal with not really having a clear line of sight and do it more by feel.

 

I'm a fairly big guy (6'5", 250 lbs), and I can't fit my arm around the engine on the passenger side. I put the car up on ramps and accessed it fairly easily from underneath.

 

He's got a Vulcan - removing the UIM (or the cowl) just to change the plugs shouldn't even be considered an option on the Vulcan.

Things around the #1 plug must have changed in 2004 - that's the easiest rear one on the earlier cars. You just have to deal with not really having a clear line of sight and do it more by feel.
[/b]

I picked up a set tonight for my 04. Motorcraft AGSF32FM for $5.35 ea. I'll try to get this done this week sometime.

I just changed the plugs on my 03 ODY last weekend. That was the easiest plug change that I've ever done on a transverse engine.

 

I picked up a set tonight for my 04. Motorcraft AGSF32FM for $5.35 ea. I'll try to get this done this week sometime.

I just changed the plugs on my 03 ODY last weekend. That was the easiest plug change that I've ever done on a transverse engine.
[/b]

On the Accord at home, it's very easy. The SOHC V6 ain't too terrible to work on, plenty of room in the engine bay. Course you have a bit newer engine than the J30A1 in the 2000 at home, but still similar.

 

My 99 accord was super simple too. Of course is was a 4-cyl. They were all right there in the front.

My 97 Ranger on the other hand (4.0L-V6) is a hole other story. What a Pain.

 

I changed the plugs in it today. No problems whatsoever. It took about 1/2 hour. I didn't remove anything. I did the three in the back via the "feel method". Little dab of anti-seeze on the threads.

I will say that the plugs that I removed were not the same pat number as what I installed.

• Old part number: AGSF32PGM
• New part number: AGSF32FM

Anyone else run into this issue? I had the guy look it up 3 times. I assume the old part number and plug was superceeded with the one I have installed now.

 

Bump.

Anyone else run into this. I ran a serch of the AGSF32PGM plug number on within all of TCCA and came up with zilch. I also went out onto the Motorcraft website and ran a search there....also zilch. I find it strange that I have a set of 6 plugs that came out of my 04 Tortoise with the above part number on them....but no info anywhere....

See image....

 

Has anyone changed their plugs around 50,000 miles? (2007 3.0 L) I was wondering to do it for the heck of doing it. To possibly go with a better plug, and get better fuel economy. However, I did not know if it would be worth it the troubles.
I know in my brother's little bucket (Focus ZX3) under 50,000 I think. The plugs looked like the above picture. If not worse.
For those that know about my fuel filter replacement issue. I said I could always take it over to the repair shop we use. Tell them I want them to do 1/2 of a tune up. (I know a tune up consists more then just plugs.) I was just referring to them doing the three back ones. Just like I told him that if that last place we went to. If they would just take the fuel filter off. They could roll it into the parking lot. We could put the new one on.

 

QUOTE (2007P53SE @ Jun 29 2009, 12:33 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=735909

Has anyone changed their plugs around 50,000 miles? (2007 3.0 L) I was wondering to do it for the heck of doing it. To possibly go with a better plug, and get better fuel economy. However, I did not know if it would be worth it the troubles.
I know in my brother's little bucket (Focus ZX3) under 50,000 I think. The plugs looked like the above picture. If not worse.
For those that know about my fuel filter replacement issue. I said I could always take it over to the repair shop we use. Tell them I want them to do 1/2 of a tune up. (I know a tune up consists more then just plugs.) I was just referring to them doing the three back ones. Just like I told him that if that last place we went to. If they would just take the fuel filter off. They could roll it into the parking lot. We could put the new one on.[/b]

Its very easy...this is one of those tasks that people like to waaaaay over think and ultimately psych themselves out of trying...when removing the back plugs go at them from the side of the engine compartment...not from the front. First reach out back and see if you can get your hands on the plug wires for each plug...if you can remove the plug wire...then the rest of the job is real easy.

 

Like I said in my earlier post, I did the whole job in about 1/2 hour. I had no problems getting to the back plugs. I didn't remove anything either.

The middle and drivers side rear plugs I did from the driver’s side of the car. The passenger side rear I changed from the passenger side of the car (kind of a tight fit with your hand....but still doable). I did nothing from under....it was all from up top.

 

Interesting..this is the part number I get: #AGSF32WMF4

 

QUOTE (herrhaus @ Feb 18 2009, 05:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=703671

QUOTE (ford_ses @ Feb 18 2009, 04:35 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=703583

He's got a Vulcan - removing the UIM (or the cowl) just to change the plugs shouldn't even be considered an option on the Vulcan.

Things around the #1 plug must have changed in 2004 - that's the easiest rear one on the earlier cars. You just have to deal with not really having a clear line of sight and do it more by feel. [/b]

I picked up a set tonight for my 04. Motorcraft AGSF32FM for $5.35 ea. I'll try to get this done this week sometime.

I just changed the plugs on my 03 ODY last weekend. That was the easiest plug change that I've ever done on a transverse engine.
[/b][/quote]

Next if time if you have time and can wait for shipping, get your plugs at RockAuto. They sell Motorcraft plugs for less than $2.50 each. There is a TCCA discount and you do have to pay for the shipping I believe.

 

QUOTE (fdogg96 @ Jun 29 2009, 04:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=735947

Next if time if you have time and can wait for shipping, get your plugs at RockAuto. They sell Motorcraft plugs for less than $2.50 each. There is a TCCA discount and you do have to pay for the shipping I believe.[/b]

Thanks. I'll try to remember that.

 

I am going to be replacing my plugs and wires on my just purchased 2000 Mercury Sable LS Wagon with a 3.0 L vulcan engine. Something I have used on GM products to help it easier installing spark plugs is an old spark plug boot or a short length of rubber hose to start the plug into the head this tends to help stop you from cross threading the plug into the head. Also is it recommended to torque the plugs to 15 ft lbs. or some other torque spec.? Bob S.

 

I would never go higher than 12-lb.ft. Because:1. U are/should use anti-seize compound on the threads which will allow the torque to increase over the dry reading.2. How accurate is your to torque (T) wrench? In industry, we had ours tested and calibrated. Let's say U are using one that has not been, like Harbor Frt. maybe? The HF ads say that their T wrench is accurate to 4 pct. This can mean 4 pct. of the whole scale of 150 which could mean it's off by 6 lb.ft. See what I mean? At least w/ iron heads U may have a cushion. Alum. heads should NEVER be tightened at higher than 12 lb.ft. No matter what the folks at some sites say.

 

I have a 2005 Vulcan and was able to carefully reach behind to access the 3 rear plugs, not fun but was able to do it in less than an hour in the rain. I was lucky that the plug wires came off fairly easily by carefully twisting the boot in both directions a few times first then pulling the boot slowly to remove it. I couldn't really get my boot remover tool in position so I just did it by hand and it eventually came off, just don't pull on the wire directly or you will be replacing those too. I was able to get the passenger side rear plug from the passenger side and the drivers side and middle plug from the drivers side. I used a spark plug socket, a knuckle then a very short extension and was able to carefully remove them then install the new plug by feel method only. I just took my time and was careful not to put too much side pressure on the socket when removing or installing. I gapped the new Motorcraft AGSF32FM at .044 (the old ones were worn to a whopping .080 after 60K miles). I used antiseize on the threads and dielectric on the boots to make it easier for next time. Started up just fine and ran much better and no more random misfire code! I was prepared to remove the plenum but tried the reach behind method first to see if I could do it. Even though removing the plenum would have made the reach much easier it would have taken much longer to do the job plus the risk of having something else go wrong or break.

 

Yes, that is it, I used the 3/8 " one in the middle photo.