How dies the engine run? Reason I ask is fuel pump running whenever the key is on but engine not running can be a sign of a failed or failing EEC IV PCM. Can you pull codes from the PCM? No code output when codes are requested is also a sign of PCM issues, as is the engine cooling fan running whenever the key is on.

 

I just replaced the PCM in 2015 so I don't think that is the problem.

 

Just because the PCM is new means nothing. Have you checked for codes?

 

Are you losing pressure in your fuel lines after it sits for awhile? I replaced the fuel pump on a 2006 Mercury Mariner (Escape) after the original one failed and the new one primed for about 30 seconds without the need of turning the ignition to on for a few seconds and back to the off position several times to build up pressure. I'm not sure if the old OBD-I systems even do that.

 

Yes I just got a code 33 from a rotunda star tester 2. So the PCM is working. I remember when it went bad back in 2015 the PCM would not do anything. Again when I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump whirling noise. It runs for a long time. Probably runs for over 10-15 seconds where as before it would quit after a few seconds. When it stops making a noise after 10-15 seconds then I can start the car. What is suppose to make the fuel pump stop making the whirling noise after only a few seconds? Is it the CCRM or what?

 

IRCM / CCRMcontains 4 mechanical relays for EEC power, fuel pump power, high and and low speed cooling fan, and a solid state relay for the AC clutch. All these relays are controlled by the PCM. Key in start or run energizes EEC power relay powering up the PCM EEC power relay supplies 12 V to one side of fuel pump relay. PCM grounds other coil terminal of fuel pump relay to energize fuel pump. PCM should, as you know, power up pump for 1 or 2 sec at initial key on. Once engine cranks / starts, and the PCM sees a RPM signal from the PIP inside the distributor, PCM will energize the fuel pump relay continuously until the engine is shut off. Once PCM no longer sees a PIP signal or the PCM relay opens due to key being switched off, pump relay is de-energized and pump shuts off.

Maybe try this: Have a helper turn key to RUN. Assuming the pump turns on for longer than 2 sec, give the IRCM / CCRM a good rap with a wrench, etc, and see if the pump stops running. If it does, FP relay in IRCM CCRM is sticking.

PIP signal, which passes thru the TFI and on to the PCM is a lower voltage signal and subject to EMI / RFI. Be sure the shielding (like thin tin foil) around the TFI harness is intact and properly grounded.

 

So if the fuel pump powers up for longer that 1 to 2 seconds is this the fault of the CCRM or the PCM?

 

I doubt the problem is the IRCM, but giving it a rap with a wrench when pump is running should rule the IRCM out as I noted above.

This problem will require some heavy duty electrical troubleshooting.

 

Fwiw, ircm. Ccrm only used in '96/'97 model years.

 

^^^^^ This is a 93..... All G2 had an IRCM.

 

ok a IRCM. But please answer my question. If it last longer than 1 to 2 seconds when the key is turned on what would be at fault the IRCM or PCM?

 

As I stated above, when the pump is running too long with key on engine off, give the IRCM a rap with a wrench and see if the pump shuts off. If so, the relay in the IRCM is sticking, but I doubt the problem is the IRCM. As I also stated, this will require some serious electrical troubleshooting to diagnose. I cant tell you for sure what the exact problem is over the web.

 

I gave the IRCM a rap with my wrench several times and it did not help. I timed the seconds that the pump powers up and then down. It took 24 seconds to power down the first time but after doing it several more times it got down to 15, 10, 9, 7, and 6 seconds. I don't know if that means anything. If you can't tell me what it is then can you at least list as many things as you can that it might be?

 

Sounds like a PCM issue to me.

 

Ok. Now how do you get to the PCM to remove it on my 1993 3.8L GL? I see how to get to it from under the hood. But don't you have to also remove it from behind the glove box also?

 

DOnt remember off hand how to remove the PCM, but it cant be too hard.

Be aware, that my GUESS, from 700 miles away, is a PCM issue. If it were my car, I would perform some detailed electrical troubleshooting before spending $$ on a reman PCM.

 

How would you troubleshoot it? Would you have to remove it from the car to troubleshoot it? Do you need special tools to troubleshoot it or what?