[01vulcantaurus]

Where is the bolt that holds the synchronizer on the block?

 

[65tremecgt]

Thanks for the info everyone! This was a great writeup and saved me some $$ as I prolly would have taken it to the shop if I didnt find this. I just switched my sensor and sync, took about an hour and a half but had the kids running around. I would say the hardest part is getting the loom out of the way, finally got it to sit on the rail and out of the way enough to access. Its not squeeking, will take for a spin later. Old unit looks good except for the squeek, and the sensor is prolly good as I didnt have a Check Engine light.

Bought my Motorcraft sync for $113 and sensor for $23, El Cajon Ford in CA (great parts guy there). My car is a 03 3.0 Vulcan Taurus with 95K.

 

[65tremecgt]

01 Vulcan, the bolt is under the wire harness, toward the tranny from the sync. Mine was covered in oil, but once you have the sensor off its easy to find.

 

[rampampam]

I wanted to say thanks as well.

Just did this repair on my 06 taurus (with 85000 miles) today and took about an hour or so - couldn't have done it without all the info here in this forum. I didn't remove any parts, but getting past the plastic part that routes the wires was a pain. Cracked it open (broke a couple of the tabs) and then just bent it and tied off the wires and plastic out of the way. Leaves just enough space to get the cam sync out. Took me a couple of tries to get the new part in correctly aligned, but it was close enough and the car is running fine.

BTW, got the part from rockauto - about $84 for Motorcraft part DA2089 ...

 

[fdogg96]

Someone should sticky this :thumb:

 

[qwertz9586]

QUOTE (fdogg96 @ May 13 2009, 11:55 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=724996

Someone should sticky this :thumb:[/b]

It's already in the Topic Finder.

 

[SocialD]

Thanks for the write-up. It has better info than my Haynes manual. Anyway, I was getting the p0340 code so I picked up the sensor only to find that the sensor took out the drive assy with it. I think that the car, 1997 GL 3.0 Vulcan, is going to be sitting tonight and hopefully I can get the new part tomorrow.

 

[bradcros]

All,

Thank you for the wonderful information. This forum really helped me tackle this myself. I made a presentation to show what I did, and attached it here, hoping it may help others too. My problem was a chirp, as described plenty often here. I had no engine codes or other indications there was an issue. I performed the replacement yesterday and the chirp is gone. The intent was that this presentation answers a few of the most common questions:
• Where is the cam synchronizer?
• Where is the cam position sensor?
• How do I replace the cam position sensor?
• How do I replace the cam position sensor?
• Do I need the “alignment tool”?
• How do I get past the wiring harness and tray?
• Do I need to remove the intake?
I hope it helps.

BC

 

[Taurus00GE]

QUOTE (bradcros @ Jun 24 2009, 08:31 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=734818

All,

Thank you for the wonderful information. This forum really helped me tackle this myself. I made a presentation to show what I did, and attached it here, hoping it may help others too. My problem was a chirp, as described plenty often here. I had no engine codes or other indications there was an issue. I performed the replacement yesterday and the chirp is gone. The intent was that this presentation answers a few of the most common questions:
• Where is the cam synchronizer?
• Where is the cam position sensor?
• How do I replace the cam position sensor?
• How do I replace the cam position sensor?
• Do I need the “alignment tool”?
• How do I get past the wiring harness and tray?
• Do I need to remove the intake?
I hope it helps.

BC[/b]

Thank you so much for this write up and the PDF!
I'm sure this will be very helpful when I install a new synchronizer next week.
My Taurus is also making weird chirping noises especially when it's cold.
Since it's not the idler pulley or belts I'm guessing it must be the CPS.
Now I have one question: why do I need to replace the sensor as well?
Can't I just slide in a new synchro and put the old sensor back on top?

Thanks.

 

[bradcros]

No problem on the write up. Keep in mind, it's a pain in the butt to get to! In terms of the sensor, you only need to replace it if it happens to be damaged. The failure mechanism that most people site is the magnet on the inside has come loose. If you pull yours off and the magnet is in good shape and you don't see any damage then I would use the old one. I replaced mine ONLY because I bought one months before I replaced it and lost the reciept. Not a good reason but that was it. Good luck and remember to lube the synch up before you try and put it in. Be patient when you're trying to match the position pre and post. It should fit close to perfect.

 

[jcole]

I just changed my camshaft synchronizer on a 2001 Vulcan with a rebuilt one from NAPA. The part's cost was $59.98 with a $44.00 core charge, and that included a sensor. NAPA lists two units: one with a step on the connector and one without the step. I ordered the one without the step (it has a "L" suffix to the part number), and it was identical to the original. The only difference is that the rebuilder has ground off the Ford part numbers on the synchronizer body and the sensor.

The squeaking is caused when the shaft binds up in the housing bearing. Looking at the design, Ford apparently did not provide any way for oil to reach the bearing. Yes, it has a hole in the housing in the area between the two block supports for oil to get into the bearing. However, the lower support blocks nearly all splash lubrication from the crankcase; this region of the housing was almost completely dry on the part I took out.

No wonder these parts fail after about 100K miles or so. I'm surprised they work that long without oil. Before I put the replacement in, I filled the hole into the bearing with as much oil as it would take and lubricated the gear.

A coworker suggested that the Vulcan block probably originally had a oil passage that directed oil into this region between the supports, and some bean counter took it out to save the $0.05 cost to drill it.

WHAT A SCREW UP. One would think that Ford, after 100 years in the business, would understand the importance of lubricating the distributor shaft, even when they take the distributor cap and rotor off of it and call it a camshaft syncronizer.

 

[monty4life]

QUOTE (pumaboyairn @ Feb 11 2008, 04:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=592242

I have 2 spare stock sychros (from 2000+ model vulcans). when I swapped to the 2000+ vulcan, the "tooth" that Luke has pictured was just like that....on my old synchro, the "tooth" was a lot thinner but more circumfrencial on its shaft. The CPS are also different as well as their wiring plugs, make sure you get the right one. I've also had the broken tooth syndrome (happened just before I did the swap). $140's bout the same amount I paid for mine. I also purchased the alignment tool but have lost it over the years from doin so much moving. The part number for the tool is in Haynes repair manual; can't remember what the number is though......searching....[/b]

Hey man- do you still have them? I have a 97 taurus. Will they work with it?

 

[bcrpc1]

Ours just went out in our 2006 Taurus SE 3.0L (vulcan) U vin code with 65k on it We found that O'reilly auto parts will match rock autos price for $84.89 for the motorcraft DA2089 synchronizer assembly their normal price is only $103.99 and the sensor was only $21 extra as well so for $117.30 after tax with no core charge So we got it there since the local ford dealer wanted $135.99 just for the same DA2089 part O'reilly had them listed for $103.99 but they agreed to match rock autos price just had to bring in the printout from the rock auto site of the part and they matched the price. Just thought i would give you all a heads up on it it only takes them a day to get it in to the local store as well. They had another unknown brand there as well with sensor for $75 but i would feel better putting the correct no problem parts back in it.

Description Availability Price
Motorcraft - Ignition Distributor
Part Number: DA2089

With 12 Valves
1 Year Limited Warranty
Online:
Available

In Store:
Call Store To Order
Add to Wish List Price $103.99 Each
[attachment=30659:da2089_fro.jpg]

 

[zzman]

I wonder if some good synthetic grease smeared all over the gear would be a good idea to make sure it stays lubed.

 

[czissman]

Considering doing this repair on my ex wife's 2005 3.0L Vulcan. She has the squeal diagnosed by Ford. I talked briefly with the service manager and he said that in addition to replaceing the shaft, they also had to pull the water pump in order to reset or to "time" something. Not sure exactly what he was taking about, as we talked only briefly.

Anyone know what he's talking about, and if this procedure is necessary or just recommended?

Thanks!

 

[Two Stooges]

QUOTE (czissman @ Sep 9 2009, 12:58 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=752140

I talked briefly with the service manager and he said that in addition to replaceing the shaft, they also had to pull the water pump in order to reset or to "time" something. Not sure exactly what he was taking about, as we talked only briefly.

Anyone know what he's talking about, and if this procedure is necessary or just recommended?

Thanks![/b]

Never heard of such a thing. What price did they quote you? It's really not a difficult job at all.

 

[czissman]

QUOTE (Two Stooges @ Sep 9 2009, 04:13 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=752142

QUOTE (czissman @ Sep 9 2009, 12:58 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=752140

I talked briefly with the service manager and he said that in addition to replaceing the shaft, they also had to pull the water pump in order to reset or to "time" something. Not sure exactly what he was taking about, as we talked only briefly.

Anyone know what he's talking about, and if this procedure is necessary or just recommended?

Thanks![/b]

Never heard of such a thing. What price did they quote you? It's really not a difficult job at all.
[/b][/quote]


I was quoted on the order of $650.

 

[spridget]

They probably pull the water pump to remove the timing chain cover to inspect the cam and crank timing to make sure they are at TDC before installing the new synchro. Too much work IMO.

 

[moose12881]

I have a 97 3.0 vulcan vin code U (GL) body style that we just removed the engine on. It has the thin synchronizer with the 3 wire plug. We bought a used 3.0 engine and did the swap. We had to use the wiring harness from my 97 as the one on the other engine was missing a few of the sensor connectors. The sensor on the used engine has a 2 wire connector. When I looked under the cap, we saw it had the single small tooth. I know we cannot just replace sensor caps, but can I change the entire synchronizer between the two engines? I am beginning to think the replacement engine was from a 98 vin code U car.

We are stuck until I can get past this problem on the car.

thank y ou

 

[gohim]

For years Service Advisors have not been hired for automotive experience. They're hired as sales people. As a result, they don't know anything about cars, and usually make something up that the customer believes as the truth because they think the service advisor knows what he or she is talking about. After all, isn't that guy/girl a Professional? When actually, NOT ! ! !

$650 is about what the Dealer will charge you for connection to the diagnostic computer ($150), the parts (synchroshaft and CPS are sold as seperate parts for about $250), and the labor to install ($200). Then, there's sales tax, and the BS Fee that Dealer Service Departments charge (fixed percentage of the labor charge) for Misc. Supplies (dap of grease, squirt of cleaner, use of rags, etc..) and disposal of hazardous materials (another fixed percentage of the parts). And there you are, $650 to install a $75 part that you could install yourself in an hour (or less).