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Surging engine codes 171 174 191 1235

2.3K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  Bigdogg2830  
#1 ·
Need some advise on where to start as mechanics can't seem to agree. Car started surging a few months ago especially on inclines and highway. It would do this intermittently. It could be running great and do this on the same day and sometimes not do it for days. Took to mechanic and he changed fuel filter. Problem came back shortly. Finally had cel come on. Took to autozone. 191 and 1235 codes came up. took to another mechanic who also showed the 171 and 174 codes. Said he did not believe there was anything wrong with fuel pump. Said during the day he got it to give a bunch of other codes and he suspected the "computer" needed reflashed and I should take to Ford. Took to ford next day and they could not produce any of those codes, but said that they got codes for bad cam sensor and misfires and that the rectifier in alternator was bad. Wanted a fortune to do work. Took to another mechanic and he thinks gaskets are bad.wanted $450 to change gaskets.

Where to start? Been 30 years but based on what I have learned on this site I think I can pull off plugs and wires(132,000 miles).I guess it will be tools instead of an ipad for Christmas.Not so sure about cam shaft job. Should I check MAF or PCV(hate to admit I am not sure where it is even after reading numerous threads)?

Also, having strange problem where the radio will lose volume when I accelerate. Let off and it comes back on. Everyone besides Ford that has tested my alternator said it was fine. Had a check charging system coming up last year that was determined to be a bad positive cable.

Thanks in advance for any advice on where to start.
 
#2 ·
all i can say is wow.... an 06? wow. maf and iac... in the tube from the air cleaner box. if you take the top off the air box and look up the tube you will see them. just spray some maf cleaner on them and let it dry.
as far the codes. tahts is weird.. but this is something i would like you to do. etm. this will give better info on whats going on here. maybe. check out the link and report back when you get the info.
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-...com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/149931-experimenting-engineering-test-mode.html
 
#4 ·
Honestly, it sounds like you have some dirty power that might be causing some of your issues, which would be caused by a bad rectifier. I would replace the unit and also replace the battery to be on the safe side. This can confuse the computer if the noise gets into the cam sensor and cause misfires. Your surging is caused by the engine running lean either as a result of vacuum leaks or lack of fuel pressure. Since this happens on the highway rather than at idle, I would lean more towards a fuel pressure problem (no pun intended). This could be a bad pump or regulator, the result of the noisy DC, or as simple as a bad fuel pump relay. I would get a fuel pressure gauged hooked up and take it for a drive up some hills and see how the pressure responds.

Use ETM to monitor the voltage as you drive around. It should be a pretty steady 14 volts or more. If it's moving around all over or spiking, then the alternator is definitely bad.

Start with the simple things first and take things one at a time. It's going to take some time and money to fix, but you can save yourself time by ensuring things are properly diagnosed before part swapping.
 
#5 ·
I have run the ETM. Quite a bit of info , but not sure what it all means. Should I list it all or looking for certain items.
I did as behlinla suggeted and the voltage is all over the place, so I guess I get to replace the alternator. Doesn't look like that bad of a job, I just need to figure out the loosening the belt part.
 
#6 ·
Alternator jumped all over between 13 and 14.2. Based on this and the Ford dealer suspecting the rectifier is bad I am going to start with replacing alternator, then reset and see what I get.

I too suspect fuel. Honestly I have read all the forums and I am not quite sure where the port is for attaching fuel gauge on my car. I am going to go to Autozone this afternoon and maybe someone there can point me in the right direction.

Thanks for your help.
 
#7 ·
There is no schraeder valve on the fuel rail to manually check fuel pressure. Have you checked the fuel pressure PID to see if the pressure is 39 psi?
 
#8 ·
Fuel Pressure



I assume I need a scan tool for this? Any recommendations on scanner? Will the one they use at auto stores give this info?

Started stalling at idle tonight. Replaced fuel pump relay just in case- no improvement.

Thanks for the reply.