[Blkfordtaurusman]

IF you had a battery under the hood the simple answer would be 300. An identical battery in the rear wired in parallel as the electrical engineer's site diagram w/ Big 3-4 done in KNU 0/1 gauge wire with battery under the hood with your 230 amp alternator fused at the rating Mr. Singer recommends 18" from alt (+) [directly] to front battery protecting the alt. Assuming you did not remove any Ford factory OEM (+ & -) wires? Based on that your accessories fuse for your 0/1 gauge KNU cable to the back would be 300 amps maximum but 250 preferred because the voltage drop with the (-) that where you'll lose an unknown amount of amps as the (-) travels through the steel/iron etc. So to minimize the loss you would need to run a KNU 0/1 gauge cable in (-) to the back along with with the (+) to actually see the full 200amps if the 0/1 gauge can actually carry the 200 amps 16 feet? [Now that's based on a scenario with a battery UNDER the hood.] Which is not what you are asking because you won't have a battery under the hood and your big 3 is non-existent without a battery 3 feet from the 3 or 4 connecting points which is the sole purpose of the Big 3/4.

 

[Blkfordtaurusman]

200 amp fuse is the answer based on your intended set up [no engine bay battery/no big3] in addition to the technical limitations what # of amps your Singer alt can produce at RPMs between (idle and 4,000). If the Singer Alt birth sheet "says" that your Alt can make a maximum of 200 amps at 4-5,000 RPM and the wire chart "says" you would need 3/0 gauge cable to carry 200 amps to 16' logically I would say a 200 Amp fuse may even be perhaps wishfully generous assuming you made [accommodations] to ensure the(-) will carry the amps to your rear batteries.

 

[Blkfordtaurusman]

It would be useful to know how much current you will actually expect in the most demanding scenario.

What specifically will you be running amps (make & model), wrenches, Power inverters and tailgating accessories? Can you also show us your M. Singer Alternator birth sheet. It should look similar to mine..I hope. I would like to verify if my math was correct. B) I wanted to see how generous I was.

 

[Blkfordtaurusman]

I apologize but; I have been up for over 24 hours and I almost fell off the bed when you reported that your Sub amp has 2 (25 amp fuses). So you will be running Amp rich and your lights will never dimm. Just try to not cook your subs the first week let alone the first day. We technically have similar parallel systems....some might give your system a day or a week. Too much wattage for your subs and a sealed enclosure too and your running the peak wattage rms which is something I do [and then sum] but I don't have Boss subs so..... Ceaveat emptor. Do be very careful set to set your gains "ultra conservatively" and error on the side of caution. Specifically, perhaps first fire your box forward like everybody else.....except me :rolleyes2: so you don't have to deal with the rattle so much or breaking your spoiler or cracking your trunk later on when you step up your game; run your subs at 4 ohms and it will sound great. When you get some spare change you can step up your game and grab a sundown 1,500 or somethin lots of sellers of those used bad boy 3-4k amps & the corresponding subs. Port some 15's at 1 Ohm. But for now at 4 ohm they will bang like nobody's business. But 2 Ohms and running the peak wattage as RMS is TOO much risk to be gambling with the Boss brand as well as in a sealed box [my opinion]. Perhaps you can try 4 ohms firing forward and then at 2 Ohms and compare and contrast? You have enough juice to run more than 2 of these systems. You just need to conservatively set your gains so you don't blow your subs.

 

[Blkfordtaurusman]

Have you already bought the amp and subs..? I really hope not.

Also, a voltage meter for both batteries is not necessary. With proper sized wiring, voltage should be constant across the entire car.

That electrical is also an extreme overkill. I have a 240a mechman alternator and a single 55ah battery and could support my M3a (3000w at 1 ohm) just fine

The good news is both of our systems would be right at home in his trunk [if he had a battery under the hood w/ Big3-4]. Plus his foundation IS solid and SPL worthy ready. IMHO. But I understand your reaction Santa. It's as if he bought a 2008 Cobra Super Snake "w/o the engine" and he dropped a 4 banger in. Not all of us can afford DD & RF & AA & PP or SA top tier stuff. It takes a while to save up and we all had to start somewhere. Besides he could be a phone call away to having Dave the box guy or Thor's Hammer's from giving him box schematics that could shame our systems? Food for thought.

 

[Blkfordtaurusman]

It is is good to go as is. It's 200% better than my first one. I would perhaps save up for a small "V8" to drop in your 2008 Super Snake with top tier NASCAR suspension etc. You got an "B+" for your electrical. But the thing is that may want to consider selling the amp/subs/box and save for a few months to 4 or 6 months and get something worthy of this awesome electrical and can take FULL advantage of it. Like a decent Amp that would have excellent reviews, puts out more than its rated power and has to be fused at "200 amps" or more. But your system will work as is. But it's like you have a 4 cylinder powering a "Cobra". Your system you planned for WILL bang and it will be good. But good is like a "C+". I would get the alt, the amp, the subs, the box and then buy the batterie(s).

 

[Blkfordtaurusman]

Lol OK. I guess I'm going all alpine in my system. I wanna get two alpine swr-12d4's and an alpine mrx-100 or mrx-110.

Wait. If your going the Alpine route ONLY get the 12" Type X's. Do it right the first time. Get the X's first then buy the best amp you can afford next. I say look for a used RF BDCP2500 or an SAZ 1500D or 3500D or equivalent. An amp that can actually deliver 2,000 or more RMS @1ohm. These amps both are plentiful and may hurt the pocket (temporarily) but are worth every penny. I have been running X's since 2006. I am on my 3rd set and I have a spare ready :rolleyes2: My current amp hasn't blown an X yet. It was my far less powerful RF 800a2 that fried the deceased X coils.

Those were the days I had the generic subbox and not so good HU. Do build your box according to Alpine specs and you'll have awesome sound. Remember I am advising towards a SQ system and NOT an SPL. But that's the only way to do Alpine. The Alpine Type X's can be much louder than I play mine...even in the videos. It's all about having the box built right. Keep in mind when I choose the subs I googled [best 12" subs] in 2006 and some major audio magazine voted them the sub of the year. At the time in 2006 they were being sold by authorized dealers for $500 each. Now they are almost half price.

I bought 2 Alpine Type X's from ABT in Glenview, IL. and paid for their "extended warranty" which also covered burned voice coils; something almost unheard of. They also can come close to matching prices and they do Internet sales too. But if you need an actual true useful extended warranty on your Alpine Type X's -ABT maybe the only place in the USA that can do that for you. Give the ABT Mobile installation call.

 

[Blkfordtaurusman]

No I didn't ignore it. I'm looking for used equipment. Its obviously going to be cheaper.

Buy the amps used. Always buy the subs new. I bought my spare X's subs from "Dave the box guy" after I requested a video of him measuring the ohms from each of the 4 voice coils to show they were still factory fresh. He's an honest honorable, exceptionally friendly, very helpful national big time car audio icon but I couldn't help myself ...I gotta do my due diligence B). There's lots of fried subs 1 burp way or 30 seconds at peak wattage from being a over priced doorstop and those abused 1/2 fried out subs being passed off as "good". Also I am sure SA, RF, DD, PP, Alpine, Kicker, and incriminator love the free press but chose wisely.

I do realize its obvious Santa and I have recommended the brands we are using. I know that it comes a cross as being partial towards our brands I had to mention that my systems aim is sound quality & (not) SPL. At 55% the trunk twerks, front doors flex and at 60% things go aire borne and the side mirrors come off. But I like and really enjoy the accurate and smooth bass my X's deliver at low volume. But nobody has an electrical like yours does that for X's........except me :mike:

 

[Blkfordtaurusman]

Name a brand better than Incriminator for SPL and daily ground pounding. Sure, there's better "SQ" drivers, but that's obviously not the OP's goal here. Team Incriminator is always dominating competitions and their build quality is superb.

I actually run American Bass right now. They're not the absolute best, but the XFLs are often known as the best "bang for the buck" subs.

Also, sound quality of a subwoofer is pretty much a BS concept once you get up past 140db. A properly designed enclosure will ensure that the bass is still "tight" sounding, but past 140db your ears literally cannot hear small amounts of distortion.

Santa your being way too kind here. A jet engine is 120db and we all see the runway workers wearing hearing protection. I would go as far to say SQ goes out the window around 110db & perhaps even less than that. At 140db I wouldn't want to be in the car at those levels ..... for long. Also Sylin,since you like the "R's" in the right box the type R's can be louder than X's.

Anyway more good sub company's for Tim to check out: AA(SMD), DC(level5), HCCA, FI, JBL, JL, MTX, RE, Orion, American Bass & Sound Stream. Choosing the right sub takes time just like figuring out what your goals are and why.

Here's a good site to see what people are running and how their equipment sounds.

Realm of Excursion

 

[Blkfordtaurusman]

I thought jl and jbl were the same company? Or am I wrong?

The front and rear stage component speakers I run....5.1 & 6.1 Infinity Kappa Perfects; the maker and parent company of Infinity is the same as JBL's parent company known as Harman Kardon. I have spoke to their tech's many times. JL is another great proven yet unrelated company. JL has some very good, very loud, very expensive and awesome sounding stuff. Be that as it may, the cost of JL stuff I would get 15's from either AA SMD, RE XXX's or Orion's HCCA. But that's my personal preference. BTW if its SPL its your box that what's going to make or break & cost you. If its SPL your getting into check out those Aeroport protruding into the middle of your back seat type boxes and shoot Dave the box guy an email. Food for thought. Is your goal SQ or entering into DB drag contests? You electrical says one thing but you never really said what direction your headed.

 

[Blkfordtaurusman]

BTW if its SPL its your box that what's going to make or break & cost you. If its SPL your getting into check out those Aeroport protruding into the middle of your back seat type boxes and shoot Dave the box guy an email. Food for thought. Is your goal SQ or entering into DB drag contests? You electrical says one thing but you never really said what direction your headed.

I thought jl and jbl were the same company? Or am I wrong?

If its SPL your getting into check out those Aeroport protruding into the middle of your back seat type boxes and shoot Dave the box guy an email. Food for thought. Is your goal SQ or entering into DB drag contests? You electrical says one thing but you never really said what direction your headed.

Did someone say, "Thors Hammer"?

Not like a Boss. Thee BOSS. I didn't know he went from a hachback with Duck taped wrapped DC 10's to DC level 5 15's in a 4 door sedan with a trunk. I knew it could be done I just didn't see it until 1 hour ago. I loved what he said last year when talking about his setup of the GP. "Life ain't right unless you have a woofer taped up"! ROFL!

With that said I really like AA's (SMD) 15's then it would be a coin toss over either the DD 9915's or DC's 15" level 5...& not an any particular order. Thats my unscientific, unresearched, & completely biased opinion. But If I upgraded I most likely would end up with a pair RE's 15" XXX's being fiscally conservative & cheap *cough:rolleyes2:*. For the sake of arguement getting loud is like hot rodding. Best subs are near 1k each. A good amp will cost almost 2k. Your alt $500 & up. Powerswire and related accessories $300+, batteries $300 & up a piece, sound processor $400-500, interconnects $100 & up, the RIGHT aeroported subbox $300 & up. Having a shop to sound proofing your car 2-3k. It's a recipe of lots of moving parts. It's not just a couple of things like the subs or the amp. Very expensive recipe.

Skunk the job on connecting your 1/0 or 2/0 lugs to your power wire and the other guy wins. Have a barely ok ground for your amps....Lousy battery or terrible big 3 the result is the same. But nothing can be worse than the wrong box. I think there are TOO many excellent choices to waste time bickering over whose Sub has the bigger magnet, xmax, or can be carefully over powered and even wrapped up in duct tape and still take home the trophy. I think it this level : DD9915, DC Level 5 I mean really can you tell the difference? At $800 & up the only thing I notice is I can't hear what you said <joke>

A parting thought. My 2nd set up I walked into Best Buy and bought their Rockford Fosgate 800a2 In 2003? They were retailing for $800+ and up. Of course I called about 20 stores to get the one with the highest birth certificate highest wattage #. :rolleyes2: I don't use it but it still works. Walked in the National chain store and bought it. The store just makes it convienient. Now lets post some videos and let your systems do the talking.