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Gen1 Bumpers On Gen2?

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4.1K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  supersable  
#1 ·
i have a 2nd gen sable ls, and i'm trying to snazz up my car some haha. i'm trying to find a 2nd gen sho so i can swap over the bumpers and whatnot. but i can only find reasonable 1st gen sho's in the area. and i like the door caps and side skirts on the 1st gen better anyways.

i was wondering if the 1st gen stuff would swap right over onto my 2nd gen? i'm mostly interested in the front and rear bumpers, the side cladding, and the rear y-pipe. would all of this fit my car? thanks a lot guys
 
#3 ·
i'm not tryin to sound like an ass, but i can't rely on "it should" ya know haha. i mean, i dont wanna buy tha bumpers and whatnot and then have them not fit ya know. thanks for lettin me know though, i appreciate that

EDIT: can anybody back up soccernamlak's statement and give me a for sure that they'll fit? thanks a lot
 
#4 ·
not sounding like an ass, don't worry....

i do need someone to back me up, but if its not a direct fit, it requires a little bit of modification...i do remember seeing a gen2 bumper on a gen1 station wagon, so i know it can be done....
 
#5 ·

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#6 ·
yeah, i heard the front and rear bumpers bolt up, i dont know bout bolting RIGHT up though. but i'm not sure about the side cladding, i haven't heard anything about that yet. i'm trying to go for a NO-modification-bolt-right-up swap haha. if anybody can let me know about it, i'd greatly appreciate it. thanks a lot fellas
 
#9 ·
You have to change absolutely everything from the a-pillars forward. The front end on Gen II cars is a little longer then Gen I cars. I don't have the pic handy, but someone tried to put a Gen I SHO Plus hood on a Gen II SHO, and it wasn't long enough. So, your Gen II hood would be too long, the hood wouldn't line up right with your much slimmer headlights. Then, if you switched your headlights, they wouldn't match your corner lenses. Then, to switch your corner lenses, you need to switch fenders.
 
#13 ·
The bumpers themselves are swapable without modifications. I saw a G2 Sable on eBay with a G2 Taurus bumper and a G2 Taurus with a G1 Taurus bumper. Just keep the stone deflector from your car and it should be good.
 
#17 ·
The only problem that you may run into is that some of the mounting holes for the door guards may not exist on the skin of your door. Trust me, if I had a decent digital camera, and my car was cleaner, I'd be able to demonstrate EXACTLY what I mean, but I'll try to explain it as well as I can. But, I'll confirm right now that once you peel the original Ford ding-trim off the doors, the mounting holes for the top retainer clips are on all four doors, as well as both fenders and quarter panels.

On the panels for the front and back doors, at the bottom rear corner, there will be a small clip retainer on the inside of the door guard; it'll look like a sideways U, pointing towards the front of the panel. There'll usually (assuming the guy pulling panels was careful) be a threaded stud-and-plate tucked into the retainer, because on the back edge of the door, there's a small whole there. A regular gen 1/2 Taurus/Sable doesn't have these holes, so you'll have to drill them yourself. That's not tough, mind you, as long as you can loosely hang the panels with the stud it, and tap the door skin just enough to scratch the clear-coat very lightly.

The rocker guards, however, may be a slightly larger problem, unless you can find the aluminum "hanger strips" that are under your current rocker guards. I hope those strips will survive you pulling your rocker guards off, but chances are that they won't. The solution is to just do what Ford did, starting in 1995, and just use 3M double-sided trim tape to hold the top edge of the rocker guard in position. The underside is just a matter of replacing the 'christmas-tree' pins.

I don't know if this helps much, but I don't have any pictures that would really help you, but I have 95% of what you're talking about done. I'm gonna try and finish the rest in the immediate future, and then I'll make sure that my car is clean enough that some of the old-school members don't cry about the dirt...
 
#18 ·
that's some good information. so what you're saying is that the sho side cladding doesn't have the same mounting holes as the sable siding? i'm gonna hafta second guess this project, unless i have some really good help. or unless i can make the time to figure it out. thanks a lot though
 
#19 ·
Well, like I said, if ihad a decent digital camera, I actually have a couple spare pieces of the cladding... there's at least 1 hole in each front door skin that you'd need to drill to 'correctly' mount the cladding... I'll have to double check the rear cladding, if I have a spare one.

The position of the hole will be on the bottom rear corner of each front door, but it's only going to be an (approximately) 1/8" hole, just big enough for the stud to slide through so you can cinch a small acorn nut onto it, from the inside of the door.

I haven't done it yet for 2 reasons: 1) I'm lazy, and 2) I don't actually own a cordless drill. But it's really not a difficult thing to do... if your cladding has the nut in place still, mount the plastic hangers along the top (in the holes that removing the ding guard expose), hang the panel on them loosely, and then push that corner against the door skin hard enough to leave a small mark on the clear coat. Then lift the panel off, mark the hole with a dry-erase pen, and double check it with the cladding again. If you're confident that the panel was sitting level on the upper clips, and in the correct position relative to the front edge of the door, set your drill bit a TINY fraction of a inch below the pen mark, and drill it out.

Taaadaaaa..... done!

If you aren't confident about the position, wipe your pen mark away, and start again, until you're ready to drill the hole. And remember to measure twice (or twenty times) and cut (or drill) once.... takinga few steps back to look at the overall fit of the cladding from a distance will take much less time than messing up and being frustrated about it. :grin:
 
#20 ·
that's hella good information. thanks a lot. i should be heading down to get the sho parts in a couple weeks or so. thank you so much for all of that information. i, and i'm sure whoever else needs this information, greatly appreciate it. thanks a lot bro
 
#21 ·
Well, I'm gonna go root around and see if I can find the spare cladding that I have, and a decent digital camera. If I can find both, I'll take pics, and photo-shop in some highlight points to show you the specific spots that I'm referring to.

Honestly, my mechanic pays me to do interior and exterior stripping and parts transfer on any taurus that needs it in his shop; if I haven't taken it apart, it's probably a part off an import... :lol2:

Actually, I should go figure out if I brought that SHO washer bottle home... if so, I can go switch my bottles tonight, and paln the battery shift for the end of the month. That'll make room for a CAI!

Excuse me while I *do the Duckman*
HUNNNNGGGGHHHHH!!!!
:evil:
 
#23 ·
Are the mounting different from a low-level car than a high-level car? Usually the GL/GS has the standard 3" trim that goes on the door/fender while the LX/LS has the whole cladding that covers the whole bottom part such as the SHO.