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Fuel Pressure Regulator

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21K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  Malachi Ledbetter  
#1 ·
Hey everyone!

I've browsed these forums for a while now, but this is my first post. Love the site!

I bought my 1998 3.0l DOHC ford taurus about a year ago. Got the car from someone who just doesn't take care of their vehicles, but after a few minor repairs (replaced the battery cables/terminals, flushed/changed all fluids, replaced all brake pads/rotors, replaced the front-left quarter panel and headlight, etc.

Ever since then it's always been something little that goes wrong. Not a big deal considering the price I paid (about 700), but now there is something that just has me stumped. While inspecting my EGR system (yeah, typical right. . .) I noticed a red plastic almost transparent line with a cone shaped rubber piece just dangling right below my EGR valve. I traced the line and it appears the line connects to my fuel pressure regulator. I've looked all around for a place to hook the line up to, but I see nothing. I've checked every repair manual I have and every site possible. All of them mention how to remove the line, but never say where the fpr vacuum line hooks up to.

One website I read claims that the line is supposed to remain open. I'm a bit wary of that. .

If anyone out there can help me figure out what the Fuel Pressure Regulator vacuum line hooks up to (preferabbly with some sort of diagram), I would be very thankful. :D

Attached is a pic of the FPR for reference.
 
#4 ·
Hey everyone. Sorry to be bothersome. I still have no luck figuring out where exactly the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line goes. . . I'm worried about any problems it's going to create. Below is a link to a site that has a better picture, though the lines are partially blocked off.

http://www.mechanixtrix.com/UserFiles/023.JPG

If anyone out there could just help me figure out what the fuel pressure regulator line connects to, that would be awesome. The lines should be easily traceable.

Thank you again for taking the time to look. . .
 
#5 ·
QUOTE (Memphis @ Dec 6 2009, 04:02 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=771491
Hey everyone. Sorry to be bothersome. I still have no luck figuring out where exactly the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line goes. . . I'm worried about any problems it's going to create. Below is a link to a site that has a better picture, though the lines are partially blocked off.

http://www.mechanixtrix.com/UserFiles/023.JPG

If anyone out there could just help me figure out what the fuel pressure regulator line connects to, that would be awesome. The lines should be easily traceable.

Thank you again for taking the time to look. . .[/b]
This may not be helpful but on my '97 Vulcan the line connects to the rear of the intake manifold. I found out the hard way last week when the diaphragm in my regulator failed and was bypassing fuel to the vacuum line. Good luck.
 
#6 ·
No it should not just remain open, it is supposed to be connected to manifold vacuum. I wish I could tell you more other than there has to be a vacuum leak somewhere on the back of your manifold. Have you tried listening or giving it a reacharound while running? You should be able to hear hissing or feel it pull on your finger.

There's gotta be someone on here with gen3 dohc who can go out to their driveway and give you more detail.
 
#7 ·
QUOTE (goodbrosUIT @ Dec 7 2009, 10:00 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=771682
No it should not just remain open, it is supposed to be connected to manifold vacuum. I wish I could tell you more other than there has to be a vacuum leak somewhere on the back of your manifold. Have you tried listening or giving it a reacharound while running? You should be able to hear hissing or feel it pull on your finger.

There's gotta be someone on here with gen3 dohc who can go out to their driveway and give you more detail.[/b]
I'll try detecting that leak and keep everyone updated. Thank you so much for replying. :)
 
#8 ·
QUOTE (Memphis @ Dec 7 2009, 04:31 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=771762
QUOTE (goodbrosUIT @ Dec 7 2009, 10:00 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=771682
No it should not just remain open, it is supposed to be connected to manifold vacuum. I wish I could tell you more other than there has to be a vacuum leak somewhere on the back of your manifold. Have you tried listening or giving it a reacharound while running? You should be able to hear hissing or feel it pull on your finger.

There's gotta be someone on here with gen3 dohc who can go out to their driveway and give you more detail.[/b]
I'll try detecting that leak and keep everyone updated. Thank you so much for replying. :)
[/b][/quote]

Found no leak. :( Have a few sources that are attempting to help me. If you can help, please reply, otherwise I'll update if I ever get this resolved to help others.
 
#10 ·
QUOTE (dark_fire @ Dec 8 2009, 06:11 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=772004
Thanks so much for the diagram dark fire!

I see what is going on, but still can't determine the problem. maybe you can give me some advice (or anyone else for that matter).

The above is what I'm being told the vacuum line should be like, however below is what my vacuum diagram is:

Image


I've been unable to identify the metal object, but here is what I do know about it.

1 - It can be found by standing on the right (if you are standing directly in front of the car) side of the car. Look the the right of the intake manifold vacuum boot, and look a bit down towards the firewall. It is metal (about the size of a soda can).

2 - The red vacuum line that should in theory connect to the FPR line is actually connecting to a rubber line that directly hooks into a valve on this mysterious metal object.

3 - There is no part name on it obviously, but there is a part number. It has a ford logo so I assume it is an official ford part.

#: F5DE-9F491 (there is a possibility of a "-b" after everything.

4 - "F5DE" is a part number that is also similar to my EGR valve. It too begins with "F5DE" but ends with something else.

5 - The throttle body casing has a rubber hose, that seems to be hooking up to this metal canister.

I guess at this point I would need to identify what this object is. I've spent a good hour on google and see nothing. From there maybe I can get some insight as to how a red vacuum line would hook onto the FPR line.

Any further help would be much appreciated. Thank you again everyone for taking the time to look/respond to this.

PS - I was advised that for the time being it is best to cap off the FPR line. I've done this and the car is running just fine. This is a temp fix.

EDIT - Apologize for this. I'm sure everyone is tired of seeing this post and I really do apologize. I've identified the metal canister as an air injection diverter.

http://www.3.8mustang.com/forum/showpost.p...mp;postcount=26

While this doesn't explain why the FPR still has no feasible connection, maybe someone out there can help.
 
#14 ·
QUOTE (goodbrosUIT @ Dec 10 2009, 08:25 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=772372
Dark Fire, you have the same engine, can't you just go look and see where the hose goes to give Memphis the details? poor fella

edit: sorry, just looked at the picture, that's pretty detailed[/b]
I do not have a California Emissions Equipped Duratec, as in one with the smog pump.
I asked where he was (and got a response) because if he was nearby, I could figure it out regardless of what setup it came with if I could use my own two eyes to see it.
 
#15 ·
QUOTE (dark_fire @ Dec 10 2009, 11:18 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=772382
QUOTE (goodbrosUIT @ Dec 10 2009, 08:25 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=772372
Dark Fire, you have the same engine, can't you just go look and see where the hose goes to give Memphis the details? poor fella

edit: sorry, just looked at the picture, that's pretty detailed[/b]
I do not have a California Emissions Equipped Duratec, as in one with the smog pump.
I asked where he was (and got a response) because if he was nearby, I could figure it out regardless of what setup it came with if I could use my own two eyes to see it.
[/b][/quote]

Ohh wow. . . I didn't realize that was what that was.


Thanks for clearing that up. Hmm does anyone know if I could use a valve to split off the vacuum hose to connect to both the diverter and the FPR? If so, does anyone have any suggestions?
 
#17 · (Edited)
So I have had been hearing a vacuum leak for a little while and played around with the vacuum lines going to the egr and fpr. When I moved the hoses around it got worse so I removed the hose from the egr and fpr the unhooked the plastic clamp that holds the lines to the back of the upper plennum and then removed from the sensor on passenger side of upper plennum. Then the whole hose assembly came out very easily and I did not feel any snags while pulling out from under the throttle body.

Anyway I can not find where the 2 red vacuumn lines go. I have the the throttle body off and upper plennum unbolted.

I need to help with find where to plug the red plastic tubes too.:(

I have enclosed pictures.
Thanks
 

Attachments

#18 ·
The one with the loop is connecting EGR solenoid to upper intake manifold
The one next to green is connecting Fuel Pressure regulator to Upper intake manifold

Buy an elbow MPC rubber that has 2 ports. Connect both reds to those ports and attach elbow to intake manifold. Then on the other ends connect one to egr solenoid and the other to Fuel pressure regulator. The picture from dark_fire is pretty self explanatory.

This is the one that causing my CEL P0171 and P0174
 
#19 ·
Its been 10 years but for anyone who has this problem, the elbow fitting that connects those two red lines the back of the upper intake manifold is only sold as a part of the entire EGR/FPR vacuum harness (which cost about 100 bucks). so basically if that part fails which it did in my 1997 Taurus 3.0 DOHC you need to replace the whole EGR/FPR harness. part number: F7DZ-9E498-CA
 
#22 ·
^^^^ Exactly. Any parts store has vacuum hose (rubber or Nylon) as well as vacuum T's, adapters, check valves, etc. Should be able to rebuild the entire under hood vacuum system for under $20 to $30 worth of parts. Nylon line can be replaced with rubber and vise-versa. Broken Nylon lines can be spliced back together with short pieces of 1/16" ID rubber vac line.
 
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