my cam sensor is also bad. IIRC you need a special 'dealer only' tool to replace it, but some have figured out how to replace it without the alignment tool. The sensor is cheap but replacing the distributor gear thingy it is connected to is expensive. Does anyone know what a bad cam sensor will do, other than throw OBD codes? Doenst it control fuel injection?

 

There is information on these boards on how to replace it without the special dealer tool, but it requires that the syncrhonizer is not removed until you make alignment marks for the new shaft. I pulled mine out without thinking, and now I have to find some way to get the 'special dealer tool'.

 

The tool needed for this job can be found at:
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/shopcart...CAT585_pg56.htm
Did you guys experience the same chirp noise when Cam Sensor Synchronizer went bad? "chirp, chirp, chirp........" like a bird in a cage.....
Suran, is Cam Sensor Synchronizer hard to fix when you did it? Could you be a little specific?

 

Check this post: CAM Pos Sens

 

My 2000 FFV did the same thing at about 75K. Ford wold not replace it under the ESP warranty because they said it was not an iternal part of the engine (SYNC). I had the SYNCRIZONER and sensor changed for under $200.

As far as the tool for the sensor replacment, Ford had a TSB with the right tool number for each year and engine vin #. Be sure if someone does it to use the correct tool. If you dont use the correct tool it can cause the CMP sensor to be incorrectly timed and cause improper injector timing and posssible engine damage. The tool is not available from MAC or SNAP-ON. Best bet is to call 1-800-ROTUNDA and get an original tool. Next time I hear a chirping bird under my hood I will shoot it... LOL

Good luck

 

I just did this today. Had the chirping/squeaking sound for about a month now - sometimes quite loud, other times it goes away after warming up.

It was more work than I expected since you have to remove a fair amount of stuff to gain access to the synchronizer. I wound up taking out the air cleaner housing and throttle body for better access to the general area. The real obstruction was the cable harness that passes directly over the cam sensor. I had to open up the plastic cable cover, disconnect the heater hose that goes to the top of the cylinder head (about 1/2 cup of antifreeze spilled out) and push up the lower part of the plastic cover to have clearance to get to the boltheads holding the sensor to the synchronizer and the big bolt and washer that secure the synchronizer in place.

I did not use the special tool. Instead, I use the guidance of another clubber (see topic 10883) and used a sharpie to mark the relative location of the little tab that moves inside the synchronizer to the outer edge. I placed a mark on each edge of the tab so there were two marks with the tab in the middle.

Then I marked the location of the middle of the small notch (that is diametrically opposite the big notch where the sensor connector rests), on the cylinder head. I removed the old synchronizer, marked the new one with the tab locator markings and then installed it.

See the attached photo for clarification.

It took a couple of tries to get the helical gear in place so that all the marks and tab lined up. If you are off, it is obvious as the tab will be outside of the two marks you make.

If you do this, make sure you clean off the surfaces that you will be marking with the sharpie with some kind of solvent. You don't want the marks rubbing off! I used brake cleaner.

The old part definitely was the cause of the squeak even though it looked fine from the outside. I just turned the parts in my hands and it squeaked. My guess is that the bearing surface gets starved for oil as it wears; after oil pressure builds up, it gets enough oil to quiet down. However, it probably will continue to degrade and get noisier.

The engine fired right up after I put everything back together. I cleaned the throttle body while I had it off as it had quite a build-up of gunk on the surfaces.

Few more things for clarification:

This is a 2001 Taurus SES with Vulcan engine.

The part is DA-2089 from the Ford dealer - cost me $135 including tax.

I did not have to mess around with getting cylinder 1 to TDC as you just need to preserve the relative orientation of the synchronizer body to the cylinder head, and the rotating inner tab to the synchronizer body.

I reused the sensor since it looked fine - saved $35. I did not have any ODBII code or check engine light.

Also make sure you wet down the helical gear with motor oil before you mount it in the engine.

Thanks to all the earlier posters for sharing the info!

 

I just did this today. Had the chirping/squeaking sound for about a month now - sometimes quite loud, other times it goes away after warming up.
(great advice clip)

I cant tell you how useful this info was, thank you.

I performed the procedure today on my 03 sable with 78K, and it went flawless. I was a bit hesitent, but the advice and picture you provided went a long way.

Many thanks

Steve

 

Originally posted by ruoknow@Mar 10 2006, 10:28 PM
Did you guys experience the same chirp noise when Cam Sensor Synchronizer went bad? "chirp, chirp, chirp........" like a bird in a cage.....

This was the first thing that went on my Vulcan...

Yeah, that's what it sounded like. Some days louder than others. I was thinking it was belt or pulley related, but nope.

If you can do it yourself, great. If not, be prepared to part with some cash. The gear assembly is pricey, but the labor is probably what'll drain you the most.

It didn't need immediate attention, but it's not something you want to ignore for too long. I chose to just get it done since I didn't want to drive around constantly worrying about it.

Only good thing about it all, is finding this site after while researching my problem :banana:

Good luck with whatever you decide to do :x:

 

Mine chirps alot, but stops as soon as the engine gets dry - it is wet from like dew.

 

Mine chirps alot, but stops as soon as the engine gets dry - it is wet from like dew.

If the chirping is from the passenger side of the engine compartment, it could be a slipping accessory belt.

If it is coming from the driver side then the cam synchronizer should be suspect. And if this is the case, even if the noise goes away when the engine warms up, consider it an early warning to plan for replacement as the internal bearing surfaces of the synchronizer shaft are worn and/or getting insufficient lubrication. The design of the synchronizer uses a helical gear to engage the internal drive in the engine; there is most likely a thrust bearing surface inside the device that wears away either because the bearing surface is a softer metal or there is insufficient lubricant.

 

After fruitlessly searching for the cam synchronizer part online, I finally bought it at the dealer for around $140.

Now, after navigating through Rock Auto's catalog - I found a remanufactured version of this part for $41.79 (+$40 core charge).

The catch - RATS! <_< - is that it is under the Ignition category and called 'Engine Crank Angle Sensor'.

It is remanufactured by A1 Cardone. Here is the picture:http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Cardone/Detail.html?30S2600.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' class='attach' />

So if you are looking for a cure for the chirps and willing to do the work yourself, this is the part for a reasonable price.

You can also google '30-S2600' and find alternate sources of the part.

Latest update: The part can be ordered NEW from Rock Auto: search for part number 'DA2089'.

 

I remember hearing this noise too! but it went away.
thankfully, I guess the bird decided to build the nest somewhere else!
I would defenitely not take my chances with this, sounds too risky! dealer would be my choice.


hats off to you guys are brave!


att:J/E :buff:

 

Hi guys. I fixed it using exactly the same method as rickpark. It worked great. I was trying to post pics, but when I saw he's already done that. so need any more...
Actually, I did this without removing anyting. Just bent the wiring harness back with a piece of rope. The room left was just enough.....
There is a piece of long writing by Nidan very helpful.
BTW, do you guys experience any steering wheel noise. I am trying to locate it. it sounds like something is rubbing....
Have clues?

 

Just bent the wiring harness back with a piece of rope

:lol2: Great minds think alike - I used some yard twine to pull the cable sleeve away so I could get to the part.

Per an earlier thread, a rebuilt cam synchronizer with sensor can be had for about $55 at NAPA. So if you are handy, don't shy away from this repair and save some $$$.

 

BUMP - quite a few CPS related topics in the past few days - some info in this msg thread may be useful.

 

My Taurus is having the cam synchronizer problem too. By the way, Rockauto has a Motorcraft part under "distributor" category which seems to be like a cam synchronizer but I cannot be sure if this is the correct one for replacement. (why don't they put a picture?) Can you guys have a look at it? The part number is #DA2089 (#F8DZ12A362AA) The price of $76.7 looks quite reasonable.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,...3,parttype,7108

 

DA2089 is the synchronizer less the sensor. If the sensor hasn't been damaged, this is what you need.

 

I dont have the time to fix this myself and need to get a shop to do it. My regualr mechanic said he cant do it (because of the tool), so I went to the dealer and they quoted $400+.

Im curious to the guy on here that said they did it for $200.

 

I got quoted the same. $146 for the synch, 32 for the cam position sensor, and 225 for the install. I can see it being 200 for just the parts or install.

I'm just wondering if this synchro thing is the problem i'm having. $400 bucks would cut me deep, real deep.

 

Hey guys,

I was having some trouble with mine too. I had the chirping noise everyonce in a while but my 1-2 gear changes and shifting was slow.

I went to the dealership yesterday got just the sensor, its black with two screws. Install took about 30 minutes and fired her up after resetting the PCM>

It was a slightly rough idle but that was because I sprayed some electrical parts with QD electrical cleaner. After driving, the power, shifting and smoothness of it felt like a new car in some respects.

My old sensor looked real brown on the contact and the new one was definately clean. The car is so much smoother now! Also, before I had a hard time getting up to 112mph but after the sensor was installed I tested all the shifts, driving slow and then pushing it to 112mph and it was smooth all the way there.

I definately recommend this. The guy at the dealer said that this fix was common and that barely does the synchronizer and whole shaft need to be replaced. So, I paid the $90 for just the sensor and installed it myself!

Good Luck!!!

 

Here are some pictures...

Picture Of inside of sensor...
[url='http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/311/img1047et3.jpg']http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/311/img1047et3.jpg' alt='' width='2048' height='1536' class='attach' />[/url][/url]

Picture of box...
[url=http://imageshack.us][url='http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/2993/img1045kk3.jpg'][img]http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/2993/img1045kk3.jpg' alt='' width='2048' height='1536' class='attach' />[/url][/url]

Picture of top of Sensor...
[url=http://imageshack.us][url='http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/6919/img1048au6.jpg'][img]http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/6919/img1048au6.jpg' alt='' width='2048' height='1536' class='attach' />[/url][/url]

 

The guy at the dealer said that this fix was common and that barely does the synchronizer and whole shaft need to be replaced. So, I paid the $90 for just the sensor and installed it myself!

Barely....I'd doubt that IMO. And it's a common thing among tauris. Look on at the number of people just lately having problems. I replaced mine as well as many others. If there's a squeaking noise, then the synchronizer needs to be replaced.

Here's a link to a write up that was done a while back. It shows the damage that can happen if a worn synchronizer is left and not replaced in time.

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?...hl=synchronizer

 

well, there were four service department individuals at the shop when I went in. I told them that I wanted to fix it myself. I explained what I have learned and how I could fix it myself.

I asked "should I replaced the whole synchronizer or just the sensor?"
He asked "how intermittent was the squeeking?"
....and I said "Once every two weeks?"
He then said, "you caught the problem before it got bad enough to replace the whole synchronizer. Just the sensor!" They all agreed.
This other guy said, "Your the first to come in here and know what to do! Thats commendable especially since the job is like a $300-400 if its done here but you can pay the $90 bucks here and fix it yourself!"

So, my cars like new now so Im definately not complaining....Thanks for the input intimidator...

-scott

 

I went to a shop yesterday and the mechanic told me that it is highly likely that only the sensor needs to be replaced. So I asked him to make sure checking the synchronizer wear. Let's see what is going to happen.

 

i know for a fact that my syncro and sensor are bad. ide really like to get it fixed by not for $400. maybe i could do it myself...

Mines been bad since march and nothing terrible has happened.

bad link
http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?...hl=synchronizer

 

Whiteguy: I hope you replaced the entire synchro assembly. The sensor is an electronic component that usually is OK and can be reused if it has not been physically damaged by contact with the synchronizer tab. The squeaking noise is a failing bearing inside the synchro assembly which will get worse with time.

Davekcon: Print this thread including my post and take to your mechanic. It does NOT require the tool if the synchronizer has not suffered damage to the rotating tab that runs under the sensor body. Just mark the relative position of the synchro body to the cylinder head and the relative position of the inner rotating tab after removing the sensor to expose the tab. You can use a permanent marking pen to make the marks. Then transfer the marks to the new part, position the tab, mount the synchro in place and secure. That way, you do not have to worry about getting the #1 cylinder to TDC etc.