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97 Taurus Stalls In Gear If The Engine Is Not Warmed Up.

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5.1K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  kplotivenkov  
#1 ·
Hello, i am new to this place so please help me out if im doing something wrong.

i just got my first car ever. payed 250 for her but the body and interior are in perfect condition, some problems and weak breaks but everything seems ok.

I have a problem with my 97 Ford Taurus. when ever i start her up, she will idle fine, rev up great, but when i put her into R D 1 2 she will stall out. However if i let her warm up for a bout 20 min. and put her in any gear she will struggle a bit (like the engine is about to stall), but will go fine, and after a 5 seconds of drivign she will drive just fine and seem like there was no problem at all.


just got an oil change and will Sea Foam, and clean the throttle body once i get some time


any thoughts or suggestions are more then welcome.

thanks a bunch :ford:
 
#3 ·
Sounds like a sticking IAC. take the 2 bolts holding it on and spray out the 2 openings on the bottom of the valve with TB cleaner. Stuck or sticking IAC's are a VERY common problem around here.
[/b]

thanks a lot, i will do that. do you think i should clean my throttle body as well?
i was also planing of seafoam the engine, should i do that before i clean the IAC and TB or after?

thanks a lot, i cant wait to fix her up.

i will post more in 2 weeks since im not at home at the time


kira :ford:
 
#5 ·
Get the car running on its own before you proceed with any other cleaning. You may end up having to replace the IAC, as cleaning sometimes helps, but the valve can be so dirty its shot.
[/b]

ok will do , thank you for your help, i will keep you updated on everything. just in case how much are IAC valves? and should i just buy a brand new one or go to a local junk yard to find one?

thank you very much,

kira
 
#6 ·
You should buy a new IAC. Chances are the one you grab from the junkyard might have the same problem. Different retailers have different pricing so check around.
 
#7 ·
Smack the iac with a hammer a couple times on the solid part by the bend before you spend any money to ensure replacing the correct part
 
#8 ·
Smack the iac with a hammer a couple times on the solid part by the bend before you spend any money to ensure replacing the correct part
[/b]
For some reason I never had any luck smacking mine when it randomly froze up. Soaking it in TB cleaner did the trick though.
 
#10 ·
Sounds like a sticking IAC. take the 2 bolts holding it on and spray out the 2 openings on the bottom of the valve with TB cleaner. Stuck or sticking IAC's are a VERY common problem around here.
[/b]

hey! i cleaned the IACV and the throttle body the best way i could, but i still have the same problem. however my car idles a lot better. sadly it will stall as soon as you put it into gear, if the engine is not hot X(.

any other thoughts?

thank you so much.


:ford:
 
#12 ·
<div class='quotemain'>
Sounds like a sticking IAC. take the 2 bolts holding it on and spray out the 2 openings on the bottom of the valve with TB cleaner. Stuck or sticking IAC's are a VERY common problem around here.
[/b]

hey! i cleaned the IACV and the throttle body the best way i could, but i still have the same problem. however my car idles a lot better. sadly it will stall as soon as you put it into gear, if the engine is not hot X(.

any other thoughts?

thank you so much.


:ford:
[/b][/quote]
Is the check engine light on? If so, find out what the codes are. Another possibility is a torque converter locked up - if it's locked when you aren't moving, it'll stall the engine when you put it in gear, just as if you were driving a stick, and let the clutch out with your foot on the brake. If you give it gas when it's wanting to stall, does it still stall, or will it keep running that way? If it still stalls, i'd lean towards a TC problem. If it keeps running, then it could still be that your IAC is faulty, even tho you cleaned it (that doesn't always work).
 
#13 ·
<div class='quotemain'>
<div class='quotemain'>
Sounds like a sticking IAC. take the 2 bolts holding it on and spray out the 2 openings on the bottom of the valve with TB cleaner. Stuck or sticking IAC's are a VERY common problem around here.
[/b]


:ford:
[/b][/quote]
Is the check engine light on? If so, find out what the codes are. Another possibility is a torque converter locked up - if it's locked when you aren't moving, it'll stall the engine when you put it in gear, just as if you were driving a stick, and let the clutch out with your foot on the brake. If you give it gas when it's wanting to stall, does it still stall, or will it keep running that way? If it still stalls, i'd lean towards a TC problem. If it keeps running, then it could still be that your IAC is faulty, even tho you cleaned it (that doesn't always work).
[/b][/quote]


hi thanks for such a quick reply. no my engine light is not on. and i do not have a vacuum leak. ya i tryed doing that and some times it does start to go, but sometimes it will stall. what do you mean by TC? what does it stand for, sorry i'm a new here.

thank you so much,


Kira :ford:
 
#14 ·
<div class='quotemain'>
<div class='quotemain'>
<div class='quotemain'>
Sounds like a sticking IAC. take the 2 bolts holding it on and spray out the 2 openings on the bottom of the valve with TB cleaner. Stuck or sticking IAC's are a VERY common problem around here.
[/b]


:ford:
[/b][/quote]
Is the check engine light on? If so, find out what the codes are. Another possibility is a torque converter locked up - if it's locked when you aren't moving, it'll stall the engine when you put it in gear, just as if you were driving a stick, and let the clutch out with your foot on the brake. If you give it gas when it's wanting to stall, does it still stall, or will it keep running that way? If it still stalls, i'd lean towards a TC problem. If it keeps running, then it could still be that your IAC is faulty, even tho you cleaned it (that doesn't always work).
[/b][/quote]


hi thanks for such a quick reply. no my engine light is not on. and i do not have a vacuum leak. ya i tryed doing that and some times it does start to go, but sometimes it will stall. what do you mean by TC? what does it stand for, sorry i'm a new here.

thank you so much,


Kira :ford:
[/b][/quote]
TC - torque converter
 
#15 ·
<div class='quotemain'>
<div class='quotemain'>
<div class='quotemain'>
<div class='quotemain'>
Sounds like a sticking IAC. take the 2 bolts holding it on and spray out the 2 openings on the bottom of the valve with TB cleaner. Stuck or sticking IAC's are a VERY common problem around here.
[/b]


:ford:
[/b][/quote]
Is the check engine light on? If so, find out what the codes are. Another possibility is a torque converter locked up - if it's locked when you aren't moving, it'll stall the engine when you put it in gear, just as if you were driving a stick, and let the clutch out with your foot on the brake. If you give it gas when it's wanting to stall, does it still stall, or will it keep running that way? If it still stalls, i'd lean towards a TC problem. If it keeps running, then it could still be that your IAC is faulty, even tho you cleaned it (that doesn't always work).
[/b][/quote]


hi thanks for such a quick reply. no my engine light is not on. and i do not have a vacuum leak. ya i tryed doing that and some times it does start to go, but sometimes it will stall. what do you mean by TC? what does it stand for, sorry i'm a new here.

thank you so much,


Kira :ford:
[/b][/quote]
TC - torque converter
[/b][/quote]


well if it is the torque converter then there is no way i have the money to fix it lol. is there a way i can do that myself?

thank you

kira
 
#16 ·
You can open the throttle plate a bit. You need a small metric allen wrench and an 8mm (5/16") wrench.

With the engine warm loosen the nut on the throttle stop, then using the allen wrench screw in the throttle stop screw until the engine is running about 1500 rpm.

Then disconnect the IAC electrical connector. This should at this time have no effect.

Now screw the throttle stop screw out until the engine is idling about 400 rpm. Tighten down the throttle stop nut while holding the screw with the allen wrench so it does not move.

Turn the engine off, disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect the IAC and then start the engine. Let it idle in park, for a minute, drive for a minute, drive with the AC on for a minute and then park again with the AC on.

This should have your car idling at around 800 rpm. If not then there are other issues such as a bad IAC or a vacuum leak.
 
#17 ·
You can open the throttle plate a bit. You need a small metric allen wrench and an 8mm (5/16") wrench.

With the engine warm loosen the nut on the throttle stop, then using the allen wrench screw in the throttle stop screw until the engine is running about 1500 rpm.

Then disconnect the IAC electrical connector. This should at this time have no effect.

Now screw the throttle stop screw out until the engine is idling about 400 rpm. Tighten down the throttle stop nut while holding the screw with the allen wrench so it does not move.

Turn the engine off, disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect the IAC and then start the engine. Let it idle in park, for a minute, drive for a minute, drive with the AC on for a minute and then park again with the AC on.

This should have your car idling at around 800 rpm. If not then there are other issues such as a bad IAC or a vacuum leak.
[/b]

i know for sure its not a vacuum leak, i checked and rechecked everything seems ok. unfortunately the school started and i do not have a time to mess with the car anymore, maybe if i have time thins weekend i will try your method.

I cleaned the IAC not too long, but i can't really spend money on a new one right now.

thank you bunches,

kira :ford:
 
#18 ·
so i noticed something when i put my car in reverse. there is a hissing noise and the rpm goes up and down slightly. i guess its a vacuum leak somewhere. i tried to find it but i cant reach in to check. how can i find the leak. i know there is a smoke test, but i don't no where to go to, to get that. what are simple ways to find it?

thanks

Kira :ford:
 
#21 ·
<div class='quotemain'>
Sounds like a sticking IAC. take the 2 bolts holding it on and spray out the 2 openings on the bottom of the valve with TB cleaner. Stuck or sticking IAC's are a VERY common problem around here.
[/b]

is tb cleaner and carb cleaner the same thing? because i only see carb cleaner in the stores
[/b][/quote]


i used seafoam to clean my IAC. if you use cleaning alcohol that will work too, even better since it iwll evaporate and you will not have to dry it as long after tb cleaner.


kira :ford:
 
#24 ·
I am still leaning towards a bad Idle Air Control. You might been able to clean the carbon build up in the air inlet and outlet. But there are several other passages for cabon to build up. Plus if if the IAC has been malfunctioning for a long period of time the solenoid might be a dead. If the diaphragm or the valve become stuck the solenoid will still push on the valve until it either burns out, or bends the rod. Either way the IAC is toast. Cleaning will only help if it is caught earily or as preventative maintence.

Here is a decent IAC diagram
[attachmentid=27171]
 

Attachments

#25 ·
I am still leaning towards a bad Idle Air Control. You might been able to clean the carbon build up in the air inlet and outlet. But there are several other passages for cabon to build up. Plus if if the IAC has been malfunctioning for a long period of time the solenoid might be a dead. If the diaphragm or the valve become stuck the solenoid will still push on the valve until it either burns out, or bends the rod. Either way the IAC is toast. Cleaning will only help if it is caught earily or as preventative maintence.

Here is a decent IAC diagram
[attachmentid=27171]
[/b]
ok ill buy a new one lol, bye bye 50 dollars, i guess i got to starve for a 2 weeks lol. ill let you guys know if new IAC is helping the problem or if its something else lol.

thanks a lot

kira :ford: