Edit: I have tried to re-insert the links to the pictures, I can see the pictures when not signed into my drive. I hope this works for all others.
To replace the timing cover on the 3rd Generation is an a time consuming job, but can be done home with the proper tools. First thing to do is unhook the battery. Once that is done you can now begin.
I started with trying to drop the Y-pipe, it wasn't happening in my case and for other this will more then likely be the case. My flange stud on the rear were so rusted, there was no nut or threads. There's no room to work and to get a torch in there, so I didn't want to break a stud, because then I'd be in a mess. I cut the Y-pipe on each side of the converter below the oil pan. (On 4th Generation the converter is relocated and therefor this step can be skipped)
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From there I began to remove the accessories off the front of the engine. Before removing the drive belt, loosen the water pump pulley bolts, 13mm I believe. Once the pulley bolts are loosened, removed the serpentine belt, remove the alternator, idler pulley, and the tensioner (T-55 torx).
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Next drain the power steering system. I drained it from the power steering filter on the driver's side. You can unhook the return line and have a catch setup up under it.
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Once the system is drained unhook the return line if not done when draining the system. Disconnect the pressure line, for that you will need an 18mm and 24mm wrench. That's all that has to be done to the power steering pump.
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Once that is done you can now unbolt and remove the aluminum power steering/alternator bracket.
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You need to remove the crank pulley. This is where an air gun comes into good use to remove the bolts. If using a ratchet the engine will want to turn over as you try and remove the bolts. Once the pulley is removed, you will need to remove the harmonic balancer bolt. I believe 22mm. Again the air gun is helpful. Once that's done, you need to put on puller and pull the balancer off.
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Now drain the cooling system. The easiest way to do this is the drain valve on the radiator. Remove the lower air dam. I used a piece of rubber hose I had to try and keep from making a mess.
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Once the cooling system is drained, you can now unhook the lower radiator hose and coolant line from the water pump. (The water pump does not have to be removed to remove the timing cover.) Disconnect the crankshaft sensor connector. I removed the crank sensor off of the timing cover. (The crank sensor has steel sleeves where the 8mm bolts hold it, these sleeves may have corroded into the aluminum timing cover and you will risk breaking the crank sensor, as was my case.) Now you can begin to remove the timing cover bolts. Pay attention as several bolts are there to only hold the water pump. They are noticeably smaller. There is two brackets also that have to be removed while doing this step, one is for the A/C compressor and the other hold the power steering pressure line in place. And there will be two 8mm bolts in the bottom in the oil pan that have to be removed. Keep in mind while removing the timing cover bolts coolant from in the block can and will more then likely spill out.
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Once all the bolts holding on the timing cover are removed you can remove the timing cover. You can gently pry on the ears/tabs on each side of the cover as the timing cover will probably be stuck to the block.
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drive.google.com
Drain the oil pan, this can be done at any point, I chose to do this when I was ready to remove the oil pan.
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Once the oil is drained you will need to unbolt the starter and push it to the side. (If I recall it was held in by two 15mm bolts). You do not need to unhook the electrical connections for this part.
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Once that's aside remove the inspection cover on the bell housing. The inspection cover is held in place by the two starter bolts and one 8mm bolt on the opposite side from the starter. Once that is done remove the 8mm bolts from the oil pan and remove the pan. Keep in mind that while removing the bolts you will need to hold the oil pan up so it doesn't drop on you. The original gasket, as was in my case, was stuck to the block. It will be brittle in areas. Make sure you completely remove all pieces of the gasket.
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Clean the timing cover gasket surface on the engine block prior to re-installing the oil pan. Clean the oil pan gasket surface on the oil pan and make sure no foreign material is in the oil pan. Place the new gasket in place and re-install the oil pan. You can now re-install the inspection cover on the bell housing and the starter. Clean your gasket surfaces on the timing cover and install a new crank seal while you're this far. I applied a a thin bead of high temp silicone, then installed the gasket. I applied the high temp silicone to the block also before installing the timing cover. The reason for the silicone was because the gasket surfaces has pitting in it, which is why it was leaking in the first place. (the pictures are a little blurry, it was an older camera.)
drive.google.com
drive.google.com
Install the timing cover back into place and and torque to proper specs. Don't forget the two 8mm bolts that bolt from the bottom through the oil pan. When installing the harmonic balancer back on to the crank, apply silicone to the groove for the keyway. To install the balancer I used a large socket to gently tap it onto the crank far enough that the crank bolt would pull it the rest of the way on. An air gun is a great tool for this, make sure you start the bolt by hand first to prevent cross threading. Once the balancer is on, everything is installed in reverse. Fill with new engine oil and change the filter. Fill the cooling system, double check everything, (ie: hose, clamps, connectors, etc) The start the engine with the heater on hot and fan on high. Bleed the air from the cooling system. and check for leaks. After shutting the engine off, double check the coolant level, top off if needed, double check the oil level. When the engine is cooled off, check the coolant again as it may have dropped. After all that I brought the car to the garage to have the converter welded back on and that is it. Running good, no leaks.
To replace the timing cover on the 3rd Generation is an a time consuming job, but can be done home with the proper tools. First thing to do is unhook the battery. Once that is done you can now begin.
I started with trying to drop the Y-pipe, it wasn't happening in my case and for other this will more then likely be the case. My flange stud on the rear were so rusted, there was no nut or threads. There's no room to work and to get a torch in there, so I didn't want to break a stud, because then I'd be in a mess. I cut the Y-pipe on each side of the converter below the oil pan. (On 4th Generation the converter is relocated and therefor this step can be skipped)
S4010045.jpg
drive.google.com
From there I began to remove the accessories off the front of the engine. Before removing the drive belt, loosen the water pump pulley bolts, 13mm I believe. Once the pulley bolts are loosened, removed the serpentine belt, remove the alternator, idler pulley, and the tensioner (T-55 torx).
S4010031.jpg
drive.google.com
S4010032.jpg
drive.google.com
Next drain the power steering system. I drained it from the power steering filter on the driver's side. You can unhook the return line and have a catch setup up under it.
S4010034.jpg
drive.google.com
Once the system is drained unhook the return line if not done when draining the system. Disconnect the pressure line, for that you will need an 18mm and 24mm wrench. That's all that has to be done to the power steering pump.
S4010037.jpg
drive.google.com
Once that is done you can now unbolt and remove the aluminum power steering/alternator bracket.
S4010039.jpg
drive.google.com
S4010040.jpg
drive.google.com
You need to remove the crank pulley. This is where an air gun comes into good use to remove the bolts. If using a ratchet the engine will want to turn over as you try and remove the bolts. Once the pulley is removed, you will need to remove the harmonic balancer bolt. I believe 22mm. Again the air gun is helpful. Once that's done, you need to put on puller and pull the balancer off.
S4010043.jpg
drive.google.com
S4010044.jpg
drive.google.com
S4010048.jpg
drive.google.com
Now drain the cooling system. The easiest way to do this is the drain valve on the radiator. Remove the lower air dam. I used a piece of rubber hose I had to try and keep from making a mess.
S4010042.jpg
drive.google.com
Once the cooling system is drained, you can now unhook the lower radiator hose and coolant line from the water pump. (The water pump does not have to be removed to remove the timing cover.) Disconnect the crankshaft sensor connector. I removed the crank sensor off of the timing cover. (The crank sensor has steel sleeves where the 8mm bolts hold it, these sleeves may have corroded into the aluminum timing cover and you will risk breaking the crank sensor, as was my case.) Now you can begin to remove the timing cover bolts. Pay attention as several bolts are there to only hold the water pump. They are noticeably smaller. There is two brackets also that have to be removed while doing this step, one is for the A/C compressor and the other hold the power steering pressure line in place. And there will be two 8mm bolts in the bottom in the oil pan that have to be removed. Keep in mind while removing the timing cover bolts coolant from in the block can and will more then likely spill out.
S4010035.jpg
drive.google.com
S4010050.jpg
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Once all the bolts holding on the timing cover are removed you can remove the timing cover. You can gently pry on the ears/tabs on each side of the cover as the timing cover will probably be stuck to the block.
S4010052.jpg
drive.google.com
S4010051.jpg
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Drain the oil pan, this can be done at any point, I chose to do this when I was ready to remove the oil pan.
S4010049.jpg
drive.google.com
S4010062.jpg
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Once the oil is drained you will need to unbolt the starter and push it to the side. (If I recall it was held in by two 15mm bolts). You do not need to unhook the electrical connections for this part.
S4010063.jpg
drive.google.com
Once that's aside remove the inspection cover on the bell housing. The inspection cover is held in place by the two starter bolts and one 8mm bolt on the opposite side from the starter. Once that is done remove the 8mm bolts from the oil pan and remove the pan. Keep in mind that while removing the bolts you will need to hold the oil pan up so it doesn't drop on you. The original gasket, as was in my case, was stuck to the block. It will be brittle in areas. Make sure you completely remove all pieces of the gasket.
S4010065.jpg
drive.google.com
Clean the timing cover gasket surface on the engine block prior to re-installing the oil pan. Clean the oil pan gasket surface on the oil pan and make sure no foreign material is in the oil pan. Place the new gasket in place and re-install the oil pan. You can now re-install the inspection cover on the bell housing and the starter. Clean your gasket surfaces on the timing cover and install a new crank seal while you're this far. I applied a a thin bead of high temp silicone, then installed the gasket. I applied the high temp silicone to the block also before installing the timing cover. The reason for the silicone was because the gasket surfaces has pitting in it, which is why it was leaking in the first place. (the pictures are a little blurry, it was an older camera.)
S4010057.jpg
drive.google.com
S4010054.jpg
drive.google.com
Install the timing cover back into place and and torque to proper specs. Don't forget the two 8mm bolts that bolt from the bottom through the oil pan. When installing the harmonic balancer back on to the crank, apply silicone to the groove for the keyway. To install the balancer I used a large socket to gently tap it onto the crank far enough that the crank bolt would pull it the rest of the way on. An air gun is a great tool for this, make sure you start the bolt by hand first to prevent cross threading. Once the balancer is on, everything is installed in reverse. Fill with new engine oil and change the filter. Fill the cooling system, double check everything, (ie: hose, clamps, connectors, etc) The start the engine with the heater on hot and fan on high. Bleed the air from the cooling system. and check for leaks. After shutting the engine off, double check the coolant level, top off if needed, double check the oil level. When the engine is cooled off, check the coolant again as it may have dropped. After all that I brought the car to the garage to have the converter welded back on and that is it. Running good, no leaks.
