Generation 3 and 4 Front Endlink Replacement

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Here's the stuff you'll need.

Your choice of new endlinks. I used Duralast ones from Autozone, which according to the packaging are made by Moog. The part numbers for the year 2000 are; Duralast SL301 (left side), SL302 (right side) at AUTOZONE. Deep sockets

Ratchet to match the socket

Torque wrench



...not pictured

18mm combination wrench. ALL NUTS ARE ACTUALLY METRIC. I used a 3/4" instead because it worked and I didn't even think to try a metric wrench after the 3/4" got the nut off, but it IS actually metric.

Small wrench to fit the stud on the old endlinks, I believe its 8mm but I just used a little adjustable wrench


Step 1: Raise the front of the car and put it on jackstands, and remove the front wheels.


Here's what you'll see once the wheel is off. The endlink is bolted to the strut at the top, and the sway bar at the bottom.


Step 2: Remove the nut attaching the endlink to the strut. I didn't have any problems with the stud turning, so it came off very easily.


Step 3: Remove the nut holding the link to the sway bar. This one is a little tougher since there isn't enough room to fit the deep socket on, a normal depth socket won't reach the nut, and the stud will spin. Use a combination wrench on the nut and a small wrench on the end of the stud to keep it from spinning once you break it loose.


Step 4: Remove the old endlink. They can be a little tough to get out. I ended up just hammering them out of the hole in the strut. On the OEM Ford struts, the hole goes through 2 pieces that don't like to stay lined up. Here's what you have with the old endlink removed. I circled the mounting points in red.


Here's the old endlink next to the new one. Steel > plastic!


Step 5: Install the top mount of the endlink. Make sure that you do not reverse the right for left and left for right, although they will fit they will snap rather quickly (speaking from experience). THe new ones should be labeled right and left. I reused the washer from the old endlink between the stud and the strut. Put the nut on finger tight, don't torque it down yet. The washer is marked with the red arrow.


Step 6: Put a jack under the lower control arm and raise the suspension until the lower stud on the endlink lines up with the mounting hole on the end of the sway bar. Turn the steering wheel to line up the lower stud with the hole in the bar, and install the nut. Tighten both nuts down snug now.


Step 7: Torque the nuts down to the torque specified for your year...the Gen 3 and Gen 4 have different torque specs. There really isn't room to use the torque wrench on the lower nut since the deep socket won't fit, so I had to approximate on the lower one, but it's tight.

1996-1999: Link to strut = 57-75 ft/lbs Link to sway bar = 35-46

2001+: Link to strut = 57-75 ft/lbs Link to sway bar = 59 ft/lbs


Step 8: Reinstall the wheels and torque your lug nuts!

85-105 ft/lbs


That's it! The procedure is the same for both sides. Enjoy your new clunk-free endlinks!

--Ford_ses 11:59, 8 June 2006 (EDT)

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