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Writeup: The Clinton Gen 3 Heater Flush

133K views 151 replies 91 participants last post by  JHB 
#1 ·
There's nothing like a Gen 3 heater to clog up by the time cold weather sets in. In the past, I have depended on others to get the heater flushed, but...

After 2 tries by Midas to clear my heater (with a cooling system flush) with LESS heat each time, I decided to try it on my own.

The easiest way to get at the heater fittings is to work with the hoses attached to the engine (water pump on passenger side, engine block on the driver side). You don't risk breaking off the fragile fittings on the firewall that go to the heater.

On the passenger side, it's easy if you take out the top bolt on the generator brace, loosen the other bolt on the brace and swing the brace back.

[attachmentid=22718]

Then with space to access the hose clamp, you now remove the hose from the heater to the water pump.

You then fit a Home Depot hose repair end (about $4) to the heater hose and connect it up to a garden hose leading to your outdoor faucet.

[attachmentid=22719]

On the other side, remove the corrugated rubber air intake (remove one electrical fitting and remove a small hose -- loosen the stainless clamps and move the air intake to the side).

[attachmentid=22720]

Now, with space to access the hose clamp on this side, remove the hose from the engine block.

You then fit another Home Depot hose repair end to the heater hose and connect it to a length of hose to a bucket... or to your driveway. It was freezing when I did mine, and I didn't want to turn my driveway into a skating rink.

Clamp the bypass hose. You lose points if your vise grips are so tight they cut the bypass hose...

[attachmentid=22721]

Turn water on and off at the faucet several times. This cycles the pressure inside the heater core and loosens up crud. If the engine hoses or heater core rupture from city water pressure, it was time to replace them anyway. Then let it run for a while (In my case, long enough to fill the 5-gallon bucket.) Plenty of crud should come out. Empty the bucket.

Repeat until the crud flow has pretty much stopped. At least a cup of particulate and flake crud came out of my heater.

The Clinton Add-on
And now, the Clinton touch, which I discovered purely by accident simply because I wanted to remove as much water from the heater system as possible. Didn't want to dilute the antifreeze, which was brand new from the Midas flushings...

I took the inlet hose off the garden hose and blew into it,

However, after I blew the heater clear of water, it was obvious that a bunch more crud had come loose as a result of the blow... er.. Clinton job. Hooked it back up to the garden hose and the water ran brown with lots of crud.

I repeated the Clinton job four more times - more brown water, more crud. Apparently blowing the heater clear agitates the water inside enough to really clean the pipes out. Purists should note that there was no blue dress or cigar involved in any of this.

After hooking it back up again, replacing the alternator brace, replacing the air intake and its electrical and air connections... so much heat I actually had to turn the heater down. Before this, I never turned my heater down in 2 years.


Forgot to include the overview photo:

[attachmentid=22722]
 

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#27 ·
Just had to do this again, so I got a year of heat -- and devised a new detail.

You can lower the level of coolant prior to the procedure by removing the top (small) hose from the coolant de-gas bottle, aiming it into a bucket and letting the water pump run coolant out of the system until the de-gas bottle is empty.

Result: minimumal coolant spillage when you take off the heater hoses.

Just as a precaution:

Do this from a cold start so you won't fry your upper cylinders or head/manifolds.

(Obviously) Stop when the de-gas bottle is empty.

Dave w/ the geezer wagon

EDIT: if you can't see the level in the bottle from the outside because of opaque crud, you can sight into it when you remove the cap. If your bottle is in this shape AND obviously bulged out, it's a good time to replace this under-$20 part, since it will leak eventually when it cracks at the mounting points... and it will crack soon.
 
#28 ·
Thanks to all the posters on this site,the amount of information is essential to any home mechanic.I flushed mine for about a full hour and the results impressed me.I came up with my flusher,nicknamed " my little friend" and the air injection really made a difference!I will try to attach a picture of it,very simple and not much cost.might be twenty bucks if you go as far as I did,but I had some of the stuff laying around so can't say for sure.Robster :notworthy:
 

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#29 ·
...I came up with my flusher,nicknamed " my little friend" and the air injection really made a difference!
[/b]
Fantastic!

Wish I had a compressor... though you could probably cobble up a venturi where the T sits and entrain air with water flow...

But back to the reply -- the best engineering is elegantly simple and this is a prize idea.
 
#33 ·
All I can say is wow! This worked like a charm. The temperature from the vents went from a rather tepid 85 degrees or so to better than 160 degrees (like OldWagon, I have to turn the heat down now).

Note to Gen IV owners (or at least 2002's) - there is a more substantial bracket in front of the hose attached to the water pump. You can remove the hose without disassembling the bracket, but it requires a bit of patience (and maybe a skinned knuckle or two).
 
#34 ·
Well guys, it's my turn to flush! Have nursed this thing so far this winter, but it's starting to get REALLY cold. Last winter I don't remember having a heat problem, but this year is another story. It takes FOREVER for it to just clear the "fog" off the inside of the windshield some mornings and miles and miles to slowly heat up the interior! On a cold day I'd bet it would never get comfortable.

I know this solution works from all the testimonies, but my real question is: "WHAT'S THE PURPOSE OF THE BYPASS HOSE"? :dunno:

To the best of my knowledge my '01 Sable is the first Ford I've ever owned that has this hose on the heater circuit. It seems to me that it contributes to the heater core getting pluged. With everything flushed and clean, the collant will flow freely thru the core as well as the bypass hose, but as the core starts to plug, the resistance caused by the blockage forces more coolant thru the bypass and less flow thru the core leads to more build-up and more resistance until finally 99.9% of the coolant is bypassing the heater core.

If the bypass hose was gone, or with some kind of restrictor installed to force the majority of the coolant thru the core, wouldn't that tend to force the crud thru the core and possibly prevent the buildup? Just food for thought.

Look forward to hearing everyones opinions!

JOE
 
#35 ·
It probably does contribute to the core getting plugged as it reduces flow.

But the problem was that people did not flush out their cooling systems and the heater core would still plug and then the rear head does not get coolant.

The Vulcan motor needs the coolant flushed every two years. That's the only real solution.
 
#36 ·
ahh.... So the heater is really a scavenger off the actual cooling line to the rear head! Wonder why the cooling passage isn't integral with the block and heads like on V8's (sorry I'm old school 60's-'70's era engines!)? Anyway, I now understand... the bypass hose is really the MAIN cooling line and the heater core is just a parasite off that line for cabin heat.

So what is different about the newer heater cores that makes them so susceptible to blockage? I've got a '64 Fairlane 260 V8 that the original core lasted almost 30 years before it failed?? Ain't modern designs great!?? I wonder if any of todays vehicles will still be operational 30-40-50 years from now with all the electronics and stuff... :noes:

Thanks for explaining what the heater circuit really is!


JOE
 
#37 ·
Hey gang,

I'm planning on doing my core flush Saturday if it warms up a bit... it's only supposed to get up to 14 degrees here today! BBBBBRRRRRRRRR, that's too cold for me to play in the water!

Anyway, my question is which direction the coolant flows through the heater/head circuit. My logic says the water pump is forcing coolant through the hose, heater and finally to the head. This is also the same direction this topic has us flushing out the core.

I want to REVERSE FLUSH the crud out of the core not force it completely through it! SO if my logic is correct, I should attach the garden hose to the driver's side hose and collect the overflow at the passenger side hole.

:confused: AM I CORRECT?

Thanks!

JOE
 
#38 ·
:chili: oldwagon thanks for the info on blocked heater core.did what you did today.on my 97 sable have been trying for months . have been retired from ford auto tech since 1996 come from maine getting very cold wind chill around -20.thanks again souleman hope this finds you well.
 
#39 ·
Hey gang,

I'm planning on doing my core flush Saturday if it warms up a bit... it's only supposed to get up to 14 degrees here today! BBBBBRRRRRRRRR, that's too cold for me to play in the water!

Anyway, my question is which direction the coolant flows through the heater/head circuit. My logic says the water pump is forcing coolant through the hose, heater and finally to the head. This is also the same direction this topic has us flushing out the core.

I want to REVERSE FLUSH the crud out of the core not force it completely through it! SO if my logic is correct, I should attach the garden hose to the driver's side hose and collect the overflow at the passenger side hole.

:confused: AM I CORRECT?

Thanks!

JOE
[/b]
If you attached the garden hose to the driver's side, you would be doing a regular flush... The way the author of this thread wrote it IS the reverse flush method...
 
#40 ·
<div class='quotemain'>
Hey gang,

I'm planning on doing my core flush Saturday if it warms up a bit... it's only supposed to get up to 14 degrees here today! BBBBBRRRRRRRRR, that's too cold for me to play in the water!

Anyway, my question is which direction the coolant flows through the heater/head circuit. My logic says the water pump is forcing coolant through the hose, heater and finally to the head. This is also the same direction this topic has us flushing out the core.

I want to REVERSE FLUSH the crud out of the core not force it completely through it! SO if my logic is correct, I should attach the garden hose to the driver's side hose and collect the overflow at the passenger side hole.

:confused: AM I CORRECT?

Thanks!

JOE
[/b]
If you attached the garden hose to the driver's side, you would be doing a regular flush... The way the author of this thread wrote it IS the reverse flush method...
[/b][/quote]
 
#42 ·
Hi,

This method works great, to save time if you are in a very cold climate
or want a faster way thy this:

do not remove the hose at the water pump, instead follow it up towards
the firewall, just to the left of the computer harness you will find the hose
connects to the metal pipe that feeds the heater core.

disconnect the hose at this point, it is higher up and you will loose less
coolant.

Next step is the same as described in this thread.

I got a garden hose sprayer that has hose threads on the end,
I attached one of those plastic quick disconnects (in hose dept at home depot)
and it fits the short hose that feeds the other end of the heater core metal pipe.

I use low pressure on the garden hose to pulse the heater core clear,
then move back to the passenger side and use a short 8" length of
hose to mate to the metal pipe and my quick connect slips into this hose.

I did the flush multiple times from each side, if it flowed clear, I changed
sides and more junk flowed back out. took about an hour.

nice to have heat after two years without!

now if I can figure out why my outside air never shuts off I'll be all set !

regards

James
 
#43 ·
QUOTE (james27613 @ Feb 11 2009, 12:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=701169
Hi,

This method works great, to save time if you are in a very cold climate
or want a faster way thy this:

do not remove the hose at the water pump, instead follow it up towards
the firewall, just to the left of the computer harness you will find the hose
connects to the metal pipe that feeds the heater core.

disconnect the hose at this point, it is higher up and you will loose less
coolant.

Next step is the same as described in this thread.

I got a garden hose sprayer that has hose threads on the end,
I attached one of those plastic quick disconnects (in hose dept at home depot)
and it fits the short hose that feeds the other end of the heater core metal pipe.

I use low pressure on the garden hose to pulse the heater core clear,
then move back to the passenger side and use a short 8" length of
hose to mate to the metal pipe and my quick connect slips into this hose.

I did the flush multiple times from each side, if it flowed clear, I changed
sides and more junk flowed back out. took about an hour.

nice to have heat after two years without!

now if I can figure out why my outside air never shuts off I'll be all set !

regards

James[/b]
Maybe the little door actuators that open and close when you switch the system between recirculate/fresh air are broken?

I also agree with you about using the hose higher up on the line. It's a beautiful day out here today so I went outside and looked into what I would need to do this job... I found that there is 4 advantages to doing it the way you describe, and not as this thread did... First, like you said, you'll loose less coolant. Secondly, on my car the hose that connects to the water pump is clamped on with those tension clips. They are REALLY hard to release because they leave an impression in the hose that makes it hard to remove... Thirdly, on my car, there are the screw down type collars that hold the hoses onto the metal elbow in the place you described by the computer harness. Ford must have wanted people/their mechanics to access the coolant system in this place because they used the screw down type. Also, the hoses aren't bolted down to the frame/engine here so there is alot more play with the hose.

The fourth, and most important, reason to connect to the coolant system here is that you don't have to worry about the bypass line. The area we are describing is after the bypass line and not before it, like it is with the water pump hose. You won't have to worry about vice griping the bypass line or mixing the tap water in with the rest of the coolant in the system because the bypass isn't completely shut off. I lost alot of sleep worrying about the bypass line opening up and allowing the garden hose water to circulate through the rest of the system. In essence, you are bypassing the bypass line so you don't have to worry about anything like that. The only piece you will flush out is the heater core!

Also, I'm concerned about coolant loss when I attempt this. Someone mentioned removing the top coolant hose from the degas tank and letting the water pump pump out some of the coolant into a jug first. Should I use this method to remove some of the coolant, and if I do, which hose do I remove? There is one on both ends of the tank, one at the front of the tank that goes to the radiator and another one at the back that goes up and over the UIM and disappears into the engine. I took off the cap to try to see which side of the tank the coolant was spitting out from but it was too hard to tell...

Last question, how do you remove the hose from the metal T where the bypass/heater core/engine hoses all meet up? I want to disconnect the heater core hose from the T so I can hook that directly up to the garden hose... The clip that holds the hose onto the T is nothing like the other tension clips though. It is a very small and narrow metal clip, like the kind of thing you have to destroy with a screw driver to release... Any ideas?
 
#45 ·
It's a crimped clamp band and you will have to cut the aluminum band off to get the rubber hose off the pipe. Sounds like a good time to buy bulk hose and some good worm clamps to just replace the hose. Or if you are careful you can cut through the aluminum and save the hose.
 
#46 ·
QUOTE (rheckber @ Jan 29 2008, 01:45 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=587587
A sometimes easier way than taking the original hoses off the water pump and thermostat is to buy a couple of those $3.99 Prestone flushkits with the tees in them. A simple swipe with a utility knife and a couple of hose clamps later in an easier to access spot of your choice and your connected to the lines. The kit even comes with hose adapters. The nice thing about this is you can flush the core any time you want with only a couple of minutes prep. Of course you will need an extra pair or two of vice grips (in addition to the one on the bypass hose to clamp ofs the heater lines forcing the hose water through the core. Padding the jaws as suggested above is a great idea.[/b]
I used a couple of small rubber padded wood clamps on my hoses, worked like a charm and doesn't put too much pressure on the hoses. Plus had it's own built in padding!
 
#47 ·
QUOTE (rheckber @ Jan 29 2008, 01:45 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=587587
A sometimes easier way than taking the original hoses off the water pump and thermostat is to buy a couple of those $3.99 Prestone flushkits with the tees in them. A simple swipe with a utility knife and a couple of hose clamps later in an easier to access spot of your choice and your connected to the lines. The kit even comes with hose adapters. The nice thing about this is you can flush the core any time you want with only a couple of minutes prep. Of course you will need an extra pair or two of vice grips (in addition to the one on the bypass hose to clamp ofs the heater lines forcing the hose water through the core. Padding the jaws as suggested above is a great idea.[/b]
Since I already have one kit installed from a previous flush, All I need is a second to go in the line to the pump. Gonna give this idea a shot!

Also, if you got needlenose type vise grips, you can make a "padded" pair by simply taking some old hose and putting them over the clamp on the grips.
 
#49 ·
Well I finally sucked it up and did this little procedure... I didn't do like the OP said and used the hoses next to the firewall that go in/come out of the heater core. I disconnected the rubber hoses from the metal elbows by undoing the "snake" collars and using a slotted screw driver to pry the hose apart from the elbow (10 years of being tightly latched together meant they were almost glued shut).

Anyways, I used the hose repair pieces, hooked up a garden hose and cycled the water off and on. I blew into the hose too and I'm not really sure that did anything... Just to be safe, I reversed the flow of the water and then blew into it again to make sure I got everything out!

After driving around for maybe 20 minutes, I turned on the heater and almost died of heat stroke! I don't think I've EVER felt as much heat from my car before.

Here's some pics of the garbage that came out of my core!




I took my digital meat thermometer to test the temperature... Before I did the flush, the highest reading I could get was about 120 on low speed... After the flush, I now got a reading of 160 on high speed and a blistering 175 on low speed!

I hate to say this, but I can't wait till winter!
 
#50 ·
i need to flush mine out
i also needed to reread this thread to remind myself NOT to use muriatic acid in the core
just water and possibly some compressed air
i mixed my global yellow stuff coolant 50/50 last year and it got slushy when it was really cold
what mix are you NE guys running?
im thinking about trying 75% coolant this year
 
#52 ·
QUOTE (-James @ Sep 23 2009, 02:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=755165
i need to flush mine out
i also needed to reread this thread to remind myself NOT to use muriatic acid in the core
just water and possibly some compressed air
i mixed my global yellow stuff coolant 50/50 last year and it got slushy when it was really cold
what mix are you NE guys running?
im thinking about trying 75% coolant this year[/b]
I use the premixed stuff and never had any problems.

You really don't need anymore than residential water pressure to clean out the core.
 
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