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thanks everybody for the help on this.. I was also not getting heat so I followed all advice here.. I took my time.. let CLR sit for a good while.. flushed good and put it together.. I got improved heat but only lasted a short while and no heat again.. I notice the coolant tank was low so I filled it and got some heat again but it lost fliud again.. never did see an actual leak but there was signs of moisture around bottom of coolant tank so following advice of another series on these forums ..I pulled the tank and ..yep.. a crack.. so I replaced the tank.. NOW THE KICKER.. backing up to AFTER the flush I had heat except with fan on High it would start blowing cool air after a couple minutes.. the more you turned the fan down the warmer the air... So now back forward to new coolant tank.. no leaks.. coolant tank lever as indicator says.. but same problem with air.. It is like the heater core is not getting full circulation and the high speed dissipates the heat.. anybody ran into this..
 

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Heater core flush - old thread, new tips

This thread has been running a long time but is still a great help. I just did the Clinton job flush last weekend and, as others have noted, I now have to turn down the heat after two years of lukewarm temps. It took about 3 hours from start to close up but there was 14 years of crud and rust flakes to clean out. I flushed it both reverse and forward about 6 times until there were only tiny specks coming out and perfectly clear water. One tip I would suggest is to not disconnnect at the water pump as access to the clamp on the 2000 model is really tight and I didn't want to remove the bracket as suggested in the original post. Instead, I cut the hose at the top which is more convenient to connect into for the flush action and then reconnected with a 3/4" connector and two screw-type hose clamps. The Clinton add-on also helped get all the rust flake out so don't skip this part - despite the embarrassing look from the neighbour. Another tip that I didn't see in previous posts is that the water pump hose is 3/4" but the thermostat hose is 5/8" so you need connectors for both sizes when flushing. Now I'm looking forward to winter, at least from a car heat perspective.
 

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If you put in splices as mentioned above all I do is pinch off the hoses with hose pliers and pull the splices loose. Flush the core and reconnect the splices and you done. Top off with coolant. Hour tops to flush.
 

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Looks like I will be doing this same project real soon. I bought this 2004 wagon in March, I believe, and had the dealer do it then. Now temps around here have been in the single digits in the morning and I have very little heat.
OBD readout says the engine temp goes up to 185 degrees. As soon as it hits 185 it drops down to about 174 degrees. Thought I read somewhere that said the operating temp for the 3.0 Vulcan was higher.Around 192 - 195 degrees.
 

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OK, does this work for a Duratec, as well? I have minimal heat even at Highway speeds.. At idle it's just lukewarm..will be changing the thermostat, too..
With the aluminum block/heads it's very unlikely that the heater core is clogged unless someone put one of those pour in sealants in the radiator to "fix" a leak instead of doing it the right way.
 

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I did it last fall and it seems as though I'll be doing it again this fall...

It really is a PITA!
Just had my core flush 'professionally' last winter... now no heat again. It is a PITA. I believe i attempted to do this (not exactly this method) last year, but with artheritis in my hands the hoses were too hard to take off and i gave up. Ill try again when the temp gets back above 40 (hopefully that will happen in the next couple days)
 

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Just had my core flush 'professionally' last winter... now no heat again. It is a PITA. I believe i attempted to do this (not exactly this method) last year, but with artheritis in my hands the hoses were too hard to take off and i gave up. Ill try again when the temp gets back above 40 (hopefully that will happen in the next couple days)
My mistake was getting it professionally done the very first time.

They don't realize that you REALLY have to aggressively flush out the heater core.

Just a regular flush and fill won't do as all the deposits will sit in the core.
 

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I started out with no heat and a reservoir bottle so cruddy that I couldn't see the fluid level on the outside. First I drained the coolant and it came out very dark brown. I then did a full cooling system flush with Prestone Radiator flush and then a heater core line flush, using the instructions here and some other videos. With the first water blast through the heater core, it seemed like pressure was building for a couple seconds and then something gave way and a surge of awful black water came out the other end. I did several more rounds back and forth and now have some nice heat. Replaced the reservoir bottle and thermostat. I'm now on my second round of distilled water in it in three days. The last batch I drained was brown like apple cider. Hopefully it's going to eventually clear up and I'm going to put Zerex original green in before our first freeze.

I cut pieces from an old garden hose I found on the curb last year to attach to the car hoses using duct tape. Worked great. Also, cable operated spring clamp pliers and lock grip pliers were a huge help for all the clamps involved.

I really appreciate all the advice in this thread and forum!!
 

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I just cant get this mechanic to follow the advise here grrr.. He still has my Taurus, and I don't see him fixing the issue if the stubborn ass wont hear all the advice I have given because of this forum. I even told him I would bring my laptop to him and open this thread. Luckily I am NOT footing the bill but would love my car back with HEAT.. Any advice on getting through to this guy?
 

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I just cant get this mechanic to follow the advise here grrr.. He still has my Taurus, and I don't see him fixing the issue if the stubborn ass wont hear all the advice I have given because of this forum. I even told him I would bring my laptop to him and open this thread. Luckily I am NOT footing the bill but would love my car back with HEAT.. Any advice on getting through to this guy?
Well you can't show him the thread now! :p

If you are going to a mechanic for this work, there should be something like this, in writing, on the quote that you sign off on before work commences.

"Customer complains no or low heat from heater. Diagnosed as blocked / dirty heater core. Flush heater core until heat is restored to normal or maximum level possible".
 

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I just cant get this mechanic to follow the advise here grrr.. He still has my Taurus, and I don't see him fixing the issue if the stubborn ass wont hear all the advice I have given because of this forum. I even told him I would bring my laptop to him and open this thread. Luckily I am NOT footing the bill but would love my car back with HEAT.. Any advice on getting through to this guy?

I will say it's a time consuming process because it involves running the car and getting the temp up to circulate the coolant with the Radiator flush chemical - the more the better. Somewhere I read it's recommended to leave it in for several days and drive it about 100 miles. And you have to wait after running it for things to cool down. Maybe he only wants to do something that's a quick fix. If he won't listen, take it to someone who will.
 

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Did the Clinton flush on the 07, Used air and water pressure then half bottle of radiator flush. more air and water , It worked now have heat ! Hope it will last all Northern Ohio winter!
 

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I always had good luck with the Clinton flush. If this mechanic doesn't believe it to be a heater core blockage issue, a simple thermogun shooting and showing the differences in heat on the inlet vs outlet vs bypass tubes at the firewall should be a good indicator.

Maybe that's worth a shot?

If it's truly blocked then the hose coming from the water pump AND the bypass hose should register ~190-200 degrees when the car is at NORMAL operating temp.

The heater core outlet tube should be cooler as what little water that is coming from the bypass will most likely back up a bit but overall it will continue to flow through back to the engine to keep the cycle moving.
 

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2001 Taurus - different setup

First off - this is great information. Thank you for originally posting this.


My issue(s)?


#1 - The alternator bracket is integral with an upper support bolted to the passenger side strut tower that would need to be totally removed in order to clear the way to the water pump hose. The simple brace is simply not there.






#2 - The by-pass hose doesn't seem to be there either. Did I read somewhere that this was initially a recall item to install and then made OE on future production? Should I go ahead and install the updated arrangement?


Has anyone encountered these differences?


Thanks in advance.
 

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First off - this is great information. Thank you for originally posting this.


My issue(s)?


#1 - The alternator bracket is integral with an upper support bolted to the passenger side strut tower that would need to be totally removed in order to clear the way to the water pump hose. The simple brace is simply not there.






#2 - The by-pass hose doesn't seem to be there either. Did I read somewhere that this was initially a recall item to install and then made OE on future production? Should I go ahead and install the updated arrangement?


Has anyone encountered these differences?


Thanks in advance.

It seems everything looks normal to me on your car. Just like my two 2001s and my 2006.
 

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Thanks Automender, but the OP's pictures definitely are different regarding the alternator brace:


As far as a bypass hose goes, there's nothing there that is rubber to clamp off. Since I want this to confine the flush to the heater core only I'm wondering if I should go ahead and get the bypass setup.
 

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I may be mistaken on the bypass but I'll have to have a look again in the morning.
The bypass is there. You have two 90 degree hoses going to the heater core and the top hose is the bypass hose. Can't quite tell by your photo.

The alternator brace is different for different years. Your 2001 brace is right and does make it hard to get to the connection. I use the connection on the other end of that hose, opposite of the water pump hose connection.

The picture I pulled from the web but the hose that has the red line pointing to it is the bypass hose. Also your degass bottle show a really rusty system. Did you flush the whole system?
 

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Thanks again Automender - that was indeed the bypass hose - very short compared to the OP's setup. I went out this morning and looked a little more critically. I was able to clamp it off successfully.


The disassembly of the brace/bracket/support was a bit involved but when removed allowed perfect access to the water pump nipple.


I went back and forth several times from side to side and reassembled everything. It takes about 15 minutes for the water to get up to temperature but once there - there was heat!


I have a new degas bottle ordered and plan to do a complete full system flush and cleaning in the spring. This time around I was on a tight timeline and weather wasn't the best.


Again thank you for the info and support.
 
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