Maybe the little door actuators that open and close when you switch the system between recirculate/fresh air are broken?Hi,
This method works great, to save time if you are in a very cold climate
or want a faster way thy this:
do not remove the hose at the water pump, instead follow it up towards
the firewall, just to the left of the computer harness you will find the hose
connects to the metal pipe that feeds the heater core.
disconnect the hose at this point, it is higher up and you will loose less
Next step is the same as described in this thread.
I got a garden hose sprayer that has hose threads on the end,
I attached one of those plastic quick disconnects (in hose dept at home depot)
and it fits the short hose that feeds the other end of the heater core metal pipe.
I use low pressure on the garden hose to pulse the heater core clear,
then move back to the passenger side and use a short 8" length of
hose to mate to the metal pipe and my quick connect slips into this hose.
I did the flush multiple times from each side, if it flowed clear, I changed
sides and more junk flowed back out. took about an hour.
nice to have heat after two years without!
now if I can figure out why my outside air never shuts off I'll be all set !
I used a couple of small rubber padded wood clamps on my hoses, worked like a charm and doesn't put too much pressure on the hoses. Plus had it's own built in padding!A sometimes easier way than taking the original hoses off the water pump and thermostat is to buy a couple of those $3.99 Prestone flushkits with the tees in them. A simple swipe with a utility knife and a couple of hose clamps later in an easier to access spot of your choice and your connected to the lines. The kit even comes with hose adapters. The nice thing about this is you can flush the core any time you want with only a couple of minutes prep. Of course you will need an extra pair or two of vice grips (in addition to the one on the bypass hose to clamp ofs the heater lines forcing the hose water through the core. Padding the jaws as suggested above is a great idea.[/b]
Since I already have one kit installed from a previous flush, All I need is a second to go in the line to the pump. Gonna give this idea a shot!A sometimes easier way than taking the original hoses off the water pump and thermostat is to buy a couple of those $3.99 Prestone flushkits with the tees in them. A simple swipe with a utility knife and a couple of hose clamps later in an easier to access spot of your choice and your connected to the lines. The kit even comes with hose adapters. The nice thing about this is you can flush the core any time you want with only a couple of minutes prep. Of course you will need an extra pair or two of vice grips (in addition to the one on the bypass hose to clamp ofs the heater lines forcing the hose water through the core. Padding the jaws as suggested above is a great idea.[/b]
I use the premixed stuff and never had any problems.i need to flush mine out
i also needed to reread this thread to remind myself NOT to use muriatic acid in the core
just water and possibly some compressed air
i mixed my global yellow stuff coolant 50/50 last year and it got slushy when it was really cold
what mix are you NE guys running?
im thinking about trying 75% coolant this year[/b]
There's nothing like a Gen 3 heater to clog up by the time cold weather sets in. In the past, I have depended on others to get the heater flushed, but...
After 2 tries by Midas to clear my heater (with a cooling system flush) with LESS heat each time, I decided to try it on my own.
The easiest way to get at the heater fittings is to work with the hoses attached to the engine (water pump on passenger side, engine block on the driver side). You don't risk breaking off the fragile fittings on the firewall that go to the heater.
On the passenger side, it's easy if you take out the top bolt on the generator brace, loosen the other bolt on the brace and swing the brace back.
Then with space to access the hose clamp, you now remove the hose from the heater to the water pump.
You then fit a Home Depot hose repair end (about $4) to the heater hose and connect it up to a garden hose leading to your outdoor faucet.
On the other side, remove the corrugated rubber air intake (remove one electrical fitting and remove a small hose -- loosen the stainless clamps and move the air intake to the side).
Now, with space to access the hose clamp on this side, remove the hose from the engine block.
You then fit another Home Depot hose repair end to the heater hose and connect it to a length of hose to a bucket... or to your driveway. It was freezing when I did mine, and I didn't want to turn my driveway into a skating rink.
Clamp the bypass hose. You lose points if your vise grips are so tight they cut the bypass hose...
Turn water on and off at the faucet several times. This cycles the pressure inside the heater core and loosens up crud. If the engine hoses or heater core rupture from city water pressure, it was time to replace them anyway. Then let it run for a while (In my case, long enough to fill the 5-gallon bucket.) Plenty of crud should come out. Empty the bucket.
Repeat until the crud flow has pretty much stopped. At least a cup of particulate and flake crud came out of my heater.
The Clinton Add-on
And now, the Clinton touch, which I discovered purely by accident simply because I wanted to remove as much water from the heater system as possible. Didn't want to dilute the antifreeze, which was brand new from the Midas flushings...
I took the inlet hose off the garden hose and blew into it,
However, after I blew the heater clear of water, it was obvious that a bunch more crud had come loose as a result of the blow... er.. Clinton job. Hooked it back up to the garden hose and the water ran brown with lots of crud.
I repeated the Clinton job four more times - more brown water, more crud. Apparently blowing the heater clear agitates the water inside enough to really clean the pipes out. Purists should note that there was no blue dress or cigar involved in any of this.
After hooking it back up again, replacing the alternator brace, replacing the air intake and its electrical and air connections... so much heat I actually had to turn the heater down. Before this, I never turned my heater down in 2 years.
Forgot to include the overview photo:
Yes maintaining your cooling system will save you a lot of headaches. I concur. I do a flush every 33K miles with the green Motorcraft premium antifreeze. When I hear "brown-stuff" or "rust" is being seen as a result of the flush then it appears some one lacked to take care of the cooling system. Rust will clog your heater core, radiator and may cause further overheating. Depending where you live a radiator that is 10% clogged will cause your car to overheat, assuming an OEM radiator.I think you'd be fine if you change your coolant every couple of years.[/b]