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Discussion Starter #21
very nice! just got lost on the 4th pic. where's the outlet? I just see a vise. please advise....
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Once you take the air intake boot off, it's easy to see, and get access to, the "outlet" hose. It's the only 3/4" diameter hose that runs from the heater fittings / bypass plumbing on the firewall to the top of the engine.

I have a pic of the thing, but visually it's completely confusing, owing to the wire looms, air hose, throttle linkage, etc. that criss-cross the image.
 

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<div class='quotemain'>

very nice! just got lost on the 4th pic. where's the outlet? I just see a vise. please advise....
[/b]
Once you take the air intake boot off, it's easy to see, and get access to, the "outlet" hose. It's the only 3/4" diameter hose that runs from the heater fittings / bypass plumbing on the firewall to the top of the engine.

I have a pic of the thing, but visually it's completely confusing, owing to the wire looms, air hose, throttle linkage, etc. that criss-cross the image.
[/b][/quote]

thanks, I checked it. Is it the hose on top of the block?
 

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Just wanna say thanks to the geezer who put this up. Worked like a charm.

Couple things for those about to try this; DRAIN THE COOLANT BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING. I ended up putting the entire tank all over my driveway. Not cool. Got the dog to lick it up though, so it wasn't a total loss... Also, you don't need those hose repair donnikers. The hoses on your car are 5/8 so just by two 1/2 inch hoses and stick them inside the car hoses. Hope that makes sense. The seal's just as good and it'll save you 10 bucks. And now for the dancing banana.

:mj_banana:
 

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I also wanted to thank the author for this writeup. I have an 01 that had the old green in it too long. The heater only produced 100 degree air on low fan. Now I can get 163 on low and 149 on high (digital thermometer). Definatly fixed the problem and I used just water and a solvent sprayer hooked to my air compressor. I alternated between the solvent sprayed and just the hose. The solvent sprayer aerated the water and allowed lots of hunks to come out. I would pulse the water also to allow a big air bubble to come blasting thru which also helped. Just the thought of not having to use caustic chemicals to clean it out made my day. Every car I used flush on, the heater core would leak soon after.
 

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I also wanted to thank the author for this writeup. I have an 01 that had the old green in it too long. The heater only produced 100 degree air on low fan. Now I can get 163 on low and 149 on high (digital thermometer). Definatly fixed the problem and I used just water and a solvent sprayer hooked to my air compressor. I alternated between the solvent sprayed and just the hose. The solvent sprayer aerated the water and allowed lots of hunks to come out. I would pulse the water also to allow a big air bubble to come blasting thru which also helped. Just the thought of not having to use caustic chemicals to clean it out made my day. Every car I used flush on, the heater core would leak soon after.
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What is a safe flush solvent?I've had my 96 sable in the shop for the past two winters and was considering using CLR.Car was owned by my parents until 2002 and was well maintained.After two days of searching I finally googled the best answer!Thank you to everyone,Robster
 

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I also wanted to thank the author for this writeup. I have an 01 that had the old green in it too long. The heater only produced 100 degree air on low fan. Now I can get 163 on low and 149 on high (digital thermometer). Definatly fixed the problem and I used just water and a solvent sprayer hooked to my air compressor. I alternated between the solvent sprayed and just the hose. The solvent sprayer aerated the water and allowed lots of hunks to come out. I would pulse the water also to allow a big air bubble to come blasting thru which also helped. Just the thought of not having to use caustic chemicals to clean it out made my day. Every car I used flush on, the heater core would leak soon after.
[/b]
What is a safe flush solvent?I've had my 96 sable in the shop for the past two winters and was considering using CLR.Car was owned by my parents until 2002 and was well maintained.After two days of searching I finally googled the best answer!Thank you to everyone,Robster
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A safe flush solvent? None! Using a chemical and you will be "cleaning" the metal, hence taking away a microscopic amount. This will eventually cause a leak. Mine was nasty, and the back flush method worked like a charm. The metal inside does not need cleaned with a chemical, but rather just disturbed enough for the stuff to come loose. If you can;t get proper flow, and nothing else works, well then you have nothing to loose. CLR, Vinegar, RYDLYME, or a mineral/silicate dissolving chemical. CLR seems to be what many people use

If you flush for an hour, you will not need chemicals. Aerate and pulse the water and you will be even more amazed. Be creative and design a way to intoduce air into the water stream. Make something from some hardware store bits. 15psi is all you need from your air compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Just had to do this again, so I got a year of heat -- and devised a new detail.

You can lower the level of coolant prior to the procedure by removing the top (small) hose from the coolant de-gas bottle, aiming it into a bucket and letting the water pump run coolant out of the system until the de-gas bottle is empty.

Result: minimumal coolant spillage when you take off the heater hoses.

Just as a precaution:

Do this from a cold start so you won't fry your upper cylinders or head/manifolds.

(Obviously) Stop when the de-gas bottle is empty.

Dave w/ the geezer wagon

EDIT: if you can't see the level in the bottle from the outside because of opaque crud, you can sight into it when you remove the cap. If your bottle is in this shape AND obviously bulged out, it's a good time to replace this under-$20 part, since it will leak eventually when it cracks at the mounting points... and it will crack soon.
 

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Thanks to all the posters on this site,the amount of information is essential to any home mechanic.I flushed mine for about a full hour and the results impressed me.I came up with my flusher,nicknamed " my little friend" and the air injection really made a difference!I will try to attach a picture of it,very simple and not much cost.might be twenty bucks if you go as far as I did,but I had some of the stuff laying around so can't say for sure.Robster :notworthy:
 

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Discussion Starter #29
...I came up with my flusher,nicknamed " my little friend" and the air injection really made a difference!
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Fantastic!

Wish I had a compressor... though you could probably cobble up a venturi where the T sits and entrain air with water flow...

But back to the reply -- the best engineering is elegantly simple and this is a prize idea.
 

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From what I'm reading on here, this is just to flush out the heater core... How does one flush out the whole coolant system, radiator and water pump included? Also, how do you drain the resivoir?
 

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ya know, done all i could on my 99 taurus,and still not enough hot coming thru, i'm thinking portable car heater, question, are there holes in the firewall so's to put cables thru to hook up to battery?
 

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All I can say is wow! This worked like a charm. The temperature from the vents went from a rather tepid 85 degrees or so to better than 160 degrees (like OldWagon, I have to turn the heat down now).

Note to Gen IV owners (or at least 2002's) - there is a more substantial bracket in front of the hose attached to the water pump. You can remove the hose without disassembling the bracket, but it requires a bit of patience (and maybe a skinned knuckle or two).
 

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Well guys, it's my turn to flush! Have nursed this thing so far this winter, but it's starting to get REALLY cold. Last winter I don't remember having a heat problem, but this year is another story. It takes FOREVER for it to just clear the "fog" off the inside of the windshield some mornings and miles and miles to slowly heat up the interior! On a cold day I'd bet it would never get comfortable.

I know this solution works from all the testimonies, but my real question is: "WHAT'S THE PURPOSE OF THE BYPASS HOSE"? :dunno:

To the best of my knowledge my '01 Sable is the first Ford I've ever owned that has this hose on the heater circuit. It seems to me that it contributes to the heater core getting pluged. With everything flushed and clean, the collant will flow freely thru the core as well as the bypass hose, but as the core starts to plug, the resistance caused by the blockage forces more coolant thru the bypass and less flow thru the core leads to more build-up and more resistance until finally 99.9% of the coolant is bypassing the heater core.

If the bypass hose was gone, or with some kind of restrictor installed to force the majority of the coolant thru the core, wouldn't that tend to force the crud thru the core and possibly prevent the buildup? Just food for thought.

Look forward to hearing everyones opinions!

JOE
 

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It probably does contribute to the core getting plugged as it reduces flow.

But the problem was that people did not flush out their cooling systems and the heater core would still plug and then the rear head does not get coolant.

The Vulcan motor needs the coolant flushed every two years. That's the only real solution.
 

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ahh.... So the heater is really a scavenger off the actual cooling line to the rear head! Wonder why the cooling passage isn't integral with the block and heads like on V8's (sorry I'm old school 60's-'70's era engines!)? Anyway, I now understand... the bypass hose is really the MAIN cooling line and the heater core is just a parasite off that line for cabin heat.

So what is different about the newer heater cores that makes them so susceptible to blockage? I've got a '64 Fairlane 260 V8 that the original core lasted almost 30 years before it failed?? Ain't modern designs great!?? I wonder if any of todays vehicles will still be operational 30-40-50 years from now with all the electronics and stuff... :noes:

Thanks for explaining what the heater circuit really is!


JOE
 

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Hey gang,

I'm planning on doing my core flush Saturday if it warms up a bit... it's only supposed to get up to 14 degrees here today! BBBBBRRRRRRRRR, that's too cold for me to play in the water!

Anyway, my question is which direction the coolant flows through the heater/head circuit. My logic says the water pump is forcing coolant through the hose, heater and finally to the head. This is also the same direction this topic has us flushing out the core.

I want to REVERSE FLUSH the crud out of the core not force it completely through it! SO if my logic is correct, I should attach the garden hose to the driver's side hose and collect the overflow at the passenger side hole.

:confused: AM I CORRECT?

Thanks!

JOE
 

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:chili: oldwagon thanks for the info on blocked heater core.did what you did today.on my 97 sable have been trying for months . have been retired from ford auto tech since 1996 come from maine getting very cold wind chill around -20.thanks again souleman hope this finds you well.
 

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Hey gang,

I'm planning on doing my core flush Saturday if it warms up a bit... it's only supposed to get up to 14 degrees here today! BBBBBRRRRRRRRR, that's too cold for me to play in the water!

Anyway, my question is which direction the coolant flows through the heater/head circuit. My logic says the water pump is forcing coolant through the hose, heater and finally to the head. This is also the same direction this topic has us flushing out the core.

I want to REVERSE FLUSH the crud out of the core not force it completely through it! SO if my logic is correct, I should attach the garden hose to the driver's side hose and collect the overflow at the passenger side hole.

:confused: AM I CORRECT?

Thanks!

JOE
[/b]
If you attached the garden hose to the driver's side, you would be doing a regular flush... The way the author of this thread wrote it IS the reverse flush method...
 

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Hey gang,

I'm planning on doing my core flush Saturday if it warms up a bit... it's only supposed to get up to 14 degrees here today! BBBBBRRRRRRRRR, that's too cold for me to play in the water!

Anyway, my question is which direction the coolant flows through the heater/head circuit. My logic says the water pump is forcing coolant through the hose, heater and finally to the head. This is also the same direction this topic has us flushing out the core.

I want to REVERSE FLUSH the crud out of the core not force it completely through it! SO if my logic is correct, I should attach the garden hose to the driver's side hose and collect the overflow at the passenger side hole.

:confused: AM I CORRECT?

Thanks!

JOE
[/b]
If you attached the garden hose to the driver's side, you would be doing a regular flush... The way the author of this thread wrote it IS the reverse flush method...
[/b][/quote]
 
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