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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Note: The first 3 posts are from alldata and myself. PLEASE scroll down to the 4th post if you are only replacing the gaskets as there is information that can save you much time and headaches from breaking stuff.

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NOTE: This process is from a 2000 Duratec motor. The process is identical (or near identical) for all 2000-2003 Duratec 3.0L Motors. 2004-2005 Duratec motors are similar but there are a few added steps, and/or moved steps. I will include those as well.

How Long Will This Take Me?
Short answer between 2 and 3 hours.
Long answer: Alldata quotes the time for removing the UIM at 1.8hrs and the LIM & UIM at 4.2hrs. I call BS. For me, the UIM took 30 minutes and the LIM took an hour. Add another 45 minutes for putting the UIM back on and then a half hour for jacking up the car and getting everything ready and checking my phone and what not. It SHOULD take between 2-2.5hrs if you follow the 4th post's recommendations. I bet I could easily do it under 2 if I tried and followed the advice in the 4th post.

PLEASE: Remember to tighten ALL bolts going into the plastic to their proper torque specifications (in the pictures). If you don't have a torque wrench that will work for this, then use a 1/4" ratchet and tighten them snug, but don't tighten them too tight, the plastic WILL crack if overtightened and require you to get a new intake manifold if this happens.

Please #2: Stuff rags down in the intake holes so you don't drop a socket or bolt down into the holes. You can see I did this but not NEARLY as well as I should have. I did not drop anything down luckily! This could cause catastrophic engine damage if it happens. You would have to remove the heads to remove the debris. Turning this job from less than 3 hours to many more.

2004/2005 owners scroll to the bottom for additional steps that must be added as well as pictures.

Tools required:
Metric sockets 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, and 11mm. A whole set would be helpful incase your bolt sizes vary.
Socket wrench, 1/4" required, helpful to have 3/8" or 1/2".
Large torque wrench (for EGR valve) that can torque 15ft-lb+
Small 1/4" torque wrench that is in in-lb's. Must be able to do 89in-lb's. Less if removing EVR completely.
Flat head screwdriver. Smaller and large sizes helpful.
Spring clamp pliers and/or channel lock pliers.
May require a wrench for 04/05 models not sure of size.
PCV Removal: 12pt 7/8" deep well socket.
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What parts do I buy?
The gasket set I purchased was Fel-Pro and and came with UIM, LIM, and EGR gaskets as well as fuel injector O-Rings.



Let the games begin:
First step is to turn off the motor, pop the hood, jack up the car a bit if you are tall, and get ready to roll!

UIM Removal
First real step is to remove the top of the airbox and the accordion connected to it. You can remove the vacuum lines out of the accordion and unplug the MAF sensors electrical connector. Then undo the clips for the top of the airbox. Lastly, loosen the hose clamp with a flat head screwdriver and pull the accordion off of the throttle body. Set that aside somewhere that the MAF can't get dirtied up.

^Mine Removed

Step two: Pop the pins on the throttle cable splash shield off and pull the shield off of it.


Step three: Unhook the throttle and cruise control cables. Then remove the accelerator cable bracket from the throttle body.


^to remove the right most cable its best to hold the throttle plate in the WOT position and push the cable towards the motor then pull it out sideways.

Step four: Disconnect the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IAC (Idle Air Controller) electrical connectors. Annoying clips to get off, but not too hard. IAC one is right on the tip of the IAC, and the TPS one is on the back of the throttle body kinda in parallel with the throttle plate. Additional step after this for 04/05.


^Terrible picture but you get the idea

Step five: Remove electical harness from stud on throttle body. Not needed on 04/05 motors.

Forgot to take a pic of this. The pic from alldata says it all.

Step six: Disconnect all vacuum hoses from the intake. This includes the EVR vacuum hose and the main vacuum supply hose (pic 1), as well as the PCV and EVAP vacuum lines (pic 2). The vacuum lines are different for 04/05 motors. Pics at bottom.


I'm pointing at the three vacuum lines on the passenger side of the motor. Two go into the EVR as one unit and one goes to the fuel pressure regulator/sensor. 2001-2003 will only have two into the EVR as there is no sensor on the rail. 2004-2005 will have the sensors vacuum tube in a slightly different location.

The EVAP vacuum line gave me trouble. It's just to the right of the PCV elbow on 00-03 motors. I used a screw driver to pry the rubber down while pulling up on the UIM after removing the bolts. If you can't get it off at first continue more steps until you can pull up on it.


Step seven: Remove the EGR valve. First pull off the vacuum line on top, then 2 bolts and 2 nuts. If you are going to reuse the gaskets, make sure they are in good shape, then set them to the side. If you have new ones, discard the old gaskets.


Be sure to remove the lower gasket if replacing them.


Step eight(optional I think): Remove the EVR (EGR Vacuum Regulator) on the other side of the UIM. Disconnect the electrical connector then the vacuum hose, then remove the bolts. This doesn't actually have to be done. I did it today then asked myself why. It just stays with the UIM. So skip this step if you wish to save time, it was annoying for me to get back on.

Step nine: Remove the eight bolts and upper intake manifold. CAUTION: It is possible to break these bolts. I have heard of it happening. I have removed plenty of UIM's at the junkyard and never had this issue. Just BE CAREFUL. All data does not say to remove in reverse order of tightening pattern, but I would recommend removing them in the opposite order of the picture below (start with the highest number). I would loose each a few turns, then remove them one at a time.



Set the UIM aside and now we can remove the LIM!

Lim Removal
PLEASE READ THE 4TH POST TO SEE WAYS TO MAKE THIS EASIER AND FASTER!!
These two optional steps are only important if you wish to make it easier on yourself when removing the fuel rail. Otherwise skip to step 3. You must have a special tool to disconnect the fuel line. Called a spring clamp disconnect tool or something like that. I would strongly recommend reading the 4th post below if you do not need the fuel rail out of the way to continue your work.

Optional step 1: Relieve the fuel pressure. You may skip this step, but it is easier to do it if you do this step and less dangerous. This is how you will do it for an 00-02 and some 03's. Best way to do it is first, pull the fuel pump fuse and then run the motor till it dies. Replace the fuse. Then Take a few shop rags and first cover the holes into the motor through with one or more, then take the second and place it under the valve on the fuel rail. Then take the cap off the valve and push the valve in so fuel sprays out of it. Just keep going until it doesn't come out or only dribbles out. If you skip this step you need to be careful not to hurt the fuel rail when removing it from the LIM with injectors. Or remove each injector individually. I will try to find info on relieving fuel pressure for 03-05's with no valve on the rail. If you wish to skip this step, BE SURE to at least pull the fuse and run the motor until it dies. They make special devices just for relieving pressure. If you have one of these you can use it instead. Fuel pressure testers will work for this.

Optional step 2: If you let the pressure out fully, you can remove the entire rail into the LIM from the main fuel rail. To do this on a 2000, 2004-05, remove the electrical connector from the pressure sensor on the rail, as well as the vacuum line to it then disconnect the spring lock coupling. 2001-2003 there is no vacuum line or electrical connector to remove. The pic below is different for 04/05 motors.


Step 3 (required): Remove the 6 electrical connectors from the fuel injectors CAREFULLY. They WILL break probably. Be ready for it. Should stay on if you put them back on.


Step 4: DO STEP 5 FIRST IF YOU DIDN'T COMPLETE OPTIONAL STEP 2 Remove the 8 bolts for the LIM IN THE SEQUENCE PICTURED. Remove the LIM.


Step 5: Remove the fuel rail from the LIM. Remove the 4 bolts and pull it out carefully with the injectors on it. Be especially careful if you didn't disconnect the rail in optional step 2. Just pull really hard. Make sure you have relieved fuel pressure. Expect fuel to come out. NO SMOKING!



Step 6 (optional): Separate the fuel injectors from the LIM to inspect and/or replace the O-Rings. Be sure to rub some 5w-30 oil on the rings before putting them on. NEVER touch the spray nozzle of the fuel injector. It will ruin the proper spray pattern.

YAY DONE WITH REMOVAL!!

What other maintenance should I do with the intake off?
Replace your PCV valve while you have the intake off. Very inexpensive. Use Motorcraft part or autozone PCV-1001 (I think thats the P/N). Makes the job easier with the intake off. Careful not to crack the oil separator. That requires removal of the front head to replace. Replace your spark plugs on the back as well if they are anywhere near need it done. Inspect all of your vacuum lines while the intake is off for cracks or rot and replace them if you need to. Inspect rear COP for cracks in the top or cracks in the boot if applicable (00, 04-05 only). Inspect spark plug wires and inspect bottom of coil for cracks if applicable (01-03).


Great video on removal:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8o6UWs17bU
 

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Discussion Starter #2
INSTALLATION
LIM Install

Step 1: Replace the LIM gaskets with a nice fresh pair. Put them inside of the LIM.

Step 2: If you removed the fuel rail completely, replace it now and tighten the bolts. If you left the fuel rail attached, go ahead and put the LIM back on the motor and then put the fuel rail into it and tighten the bolts.


Step 3: If you installed the fuel rail outside of the motor, place the LIM now. Tighten the bolts to the LIM in this sequence.


Step 4: Connect the fuel injector electrical connections.


Step 5 (Only if you completed the optional removal steps): Connect the fuel lock spring coupling, and the pressure sensors vacuum line and electrical connector.

UIM INSTALLATION

Step 1: Remove old gaskets and position the new ones inside the UIM.

Step 2: Position the UIM and install the bolts in the sequence shown.


Step 3: Install the EVR valve. Install the valve bolts, then the vacuum line, then the electrical connectors.


Step 4: Install the EGR valve. Position the valve with new gaskets (or reusing your still good gaskets), then install the bolts and nuts. Connect the vacuum hose.


Step 5: Connect the various vacuum lines. This includes the PCV, EVAP, EVR, and main vacuum supply hoses.



Step 6: Connect the wire harness stud to the throttle body.


Step 7: Connect the TPS and IAC electrical connectors.


Step 8: Connect the cruise and throttle cables.


Step 9: Install the throttle cable splash shield and pins.


Step 10: Install the accordion and ALL vacuum lines. PLUG IN THE MAF SENSORS ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR. You don't know HOW many times I have forgotten to do this...


You are now finished! Start the motor and watch your fuel trims be happy:)
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
04/05 Duratec Extra Instructions

After removing the TPS and IAC electrical connectors you must remove the 'heated throttle body coolant lines'. Didn't even know these existed, but alldata says they do. Remember to reinstall them.


Vacuum line removal is different. Remove the PCV hose here:


Then remove the vacuum supply hose (by the EVR):


Lastly, remove the brake booster and EVAP vacuum lines:


Different picture for bolt pattern on the newer designed UIM:


If doing optional steps for LIM removal, the pressure sensor looks different on a 2004/2005:


That should be about it. Real pictures coming soon. If I have anything incorrect, please let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
FOR THOSE OF YOU JUST REPLACING THE LIM GASKETS. Here are a few tricks I picked up from Bull Geek on how to do this quickly and without breaking the fuel injector clips.

Instead of removing the fuel rail from the injectors, just remove the entire LIM with the injectors and fuel rail still attached. So remove the 8 (long) LIM bolts, and then just pull the entire thing up and out. That means you don't have to relieve fuel pressure, worry about loosing fuel, or worry about breaking the clips! REMEMBER to leave the 4 short screws for the fuel rail in. Once you get the LIM unbolted, just pull it up and replace the gaskets without moving it too far around (so you don't break the fuel line). This saves quite a bit of time and will help keep things from breaking.

To be honest, removing the UIM was easy (except for the dang EVAP vacuum line). Took me 30 minutes at most from jacking the car up a bit to getting it off and setting it aside. The part that took me an hour was getting the stupid injectors back in the fuel rail. One O-Ring was stuck in the rail and I didn't realize it at first. I screwed around with it for quite a while before I figured out there was an O-Ring still in there! Removed it and it wasn't that hard to get it back on then. So in reality, this job can take LESS THAN 2 hours if you don't remove the fuel rail or have any hiccups along the way. Took me about 2h45min because of the stupid LIM problems.

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Some pictures of my removal:

Shop rags over the holes. It's better to stuff an individual one in each hole.


UIM isn't too dirty, just some crap around the old gaskets.


This piece of junk wouldn't come off the UIM. Finally after I took the bolts off of the UIM, I lifted the UIM up and pushed down on the rubber with a screwdriver.


Side view with rail off, LIM on.


Comparison of old to new gaskets. The gasket pictured was the one that was leaking (cylinder #3). It was super flat and obviously couldn't seal well.


Pic of old failed gasket while still on LIM. Compare to the one next to it.


Look how much junk is around the LIM. It's just nasty! I tried to clean some of it out but didn't want it to end up down in the cylinders.

^
You can see how clean the intake valves are though!

Random UIM pic.


UIM bolts. I feel like these were different on other tec's I've removed the UIM from at the junkyard. Maybe I'm wrong.


Random LIM pic's.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Many thanks and look forward to seeing the one for Vulcan:)
I have one *mostly* complete for the 2003-2007 Vulcan, need to write one for the 2000-2003 now. Time consuming as you may have guessed.
 

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I have one *mostly* complete for the 2003-2007 Vulcan, need to write one for the 2000-2003 now. Time consuming as you may have guessed.
This is one of the highest quality tutorials that will really shine and be greatly appreciated by people around here:p.

Thank you for your time and great passion!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well don't give me any credit just yet! ALL I have done so far is take what alldata has and put it on TCCA.

Now when I actually finish this it will be super helpful! Hoping to take some pictures tomorrow of the vulcan, but may have to wait until next week if I don't have enough time. I will get Tec' pics for sure tomorrow though!

I completed the 00-02 write up. Gotta do a 96-99 next HAH! Not sure if it is different for pre 96.
 

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Awesome write up! I have done this job (4) times and the instructions are spot on.

QUESTION WHILE YOU HAVE THE FUEL INJECTORS EXPOSED IS THERE SOMETHING YOU CAN DO TO CLEAN THEM? Just curious....
 

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My Two Cents:
****Plenty of anti seize when you replace all the IM bolts.
****Fuel Injector wire harnesses clips will be brittle so be carefull.
(Yes I have broke 1 or 2 no big deal)
****Clean the mating surfaces with brake clean and a soft brass bristle brush
****Clean the plenum especially where the gaskets sit
****Do yourself a favor and replace the PCV vacume line and vacume lines connected to the front and rear valve covers
****PLUG THE CYLINDER HOLES WITH A RAG WHEN DOING THIS JOB U DONT WANT A BOLT OR SOCKET FALLING INTO YOUR CYLINDERS!!

Slow and steady wins this race....
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks for the tips. I completed it successfully. I'm updating the above posts to reflect what I have learned and some tricks I have learned.

I broke 5 out of 6 injector clips...... Thought I only broke one, but when I went to put them back on I realized I had broken 5! I replaced the PCV valve while I was in there. The rear breather and PCV elbow are in great shape.

I really hope this write up helps others. This IS NOT a hard job to do! Pretty easy actually. Just gotta do it the right way. UIM is straightforward, and the LIM you should do the way I say in post 4. NOT the way alldata says or the way I did it.
 

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1) You shouldn't need anti seize on IM bolts.
2) YOu definitely should not be using a wire brush on any of the plastic surfaces!
3) What are cylinder holes?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
1) You shouldn't need anti seize on IM bolts.
2) YOu definitely should not be using a wire brush on any of the plastic surfaces!
3) What are cylinder holes?
I didn't do #'s 1&2 :D With how little they are tightened down I don't see why you would need anti seize either. Mine came right out no issues. Done several at the junkyard that came out without issue as well. Didn't break any either and just used my impact wrench to get them out.

You know what he means :rolleyes: the holes that lead to the cylinders the intake holes.

The nice thing about me doing this is I will just remove the UIM when I do the rear spark plugs. It's super easy to do I found out. Just throw some rags down so I don't drop anything in and we're good!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
One note on the injector clips breaking. They should stay on themselves just fine. However if one does come off the motor will obviously start misfiring because no fuel is going into whatever cylinders electrical connector came off of.

So only good thing about that is even if the CEL starts to flash (assuming it's an injector issue and not a different misfire issue), you really don't need to worry about the cat's burning up since no excess fuel is being dumped in. You will get more than just a misfire code if the electrical connector comes off. That is the definite test if it's because of the connector coming off. If you don't have an additional code then it isn't a misfire because of the injector electrical connector and you CAN assume that fuel is being dumped in.
 

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So only good thing about that is even if the CEL starts to flash (assuming it's an injector issue and not a different misfire issue), you really don't need to worry about the cat's burning up since no excess fuel is being dumped in. You will get more than just a misfire code if the electrical connector comes off.
Not so fast. When you lose fuel in one cylinder, the air being pumped through will increase the amount of oxygen going past the oxygen sensor and the computer will think the bank is running lean. Fuel trims will increase to compensate, and will cause the remaining cylinders to actually run rich. If they go rich enough you will end up with excessive amounts of fuel going through the catalytic convertors and damaging them. That's why a no-spark and no-fuel misfires are both damaging. Granted, the sevarity of a no-fuel misfire is probably less than a no-spark misfire.

Fuel injector circuit codes might not set before you see a misfire code, so either way be mindful of the CEL especially if it's flashing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Not so fast. When you lose fuel in one cylinder, the air being pumped through will increase the amount of oxygen going past the oxygen sensor and the computer will think the bank is running lean. Fuel trims will increase to compensate, and will cause the remaining cylinders to actually run rich. If they go rich enough you will end up with excessive amounts of fuel going through the catalytic convertors and damaging them. That's why a no-spark and no-fuel misfires are both damaging. Granted, the sevarity of a no-fuel misfire is probably less than a no-spark misfire.

Fuel injector circuit codes might not set before you see a misfire code, so either way be mindful of the CEL especially if it's flashing.
Well learn something new every day but that makes sense. Didn't think deeply enough about it!

I agree though, don't ignore a flashing CEL ever, but no fuel misfire is better than no spark, especially at first. Driving for a long time with it could cause issues.
 

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To add to this:


If you are going to just flex the LIM up instead of fully removing it, these are the bolts you will remove from the LIM. They also go to the fuel rail, but hold the LIM on. Do not remove the coppery colored ones, as those ones are for the fuel rail (unless you plan on removing the fuel rail). They're right next to the holes where the UIM bolts will go. They also have washers on them, so don't lose them.

The biggest limit to just flipping the LIM up is the injector wiring harness. That's the short point. So don't plan on putting it fully horizontal, just get it up enough to see them.

My LIM gaskets were seemingly fused to the LIM with carbon and other buildup. What I ended up doing to remove them was to get a fine blade flat screwdriver, and slide it around between the gasket and the LIM, JUST on the bottom flat portion, then I pried the gaskets out where it starts to curve up from that portion. Avoid touching or coming close to the top curved portion where the injector exits-you don't want to brush those injector tips.

Honestly, getting those gaskets out was the most time consuming (and frustrating) part of this whole job.


Here you can see how I lifted it up and wedged it on the valvetrain cover. The blue gaskets are the new ones. I put shop towels over the holes leading to the intake valves.

And here's one more pic. I cheated and didn't fully remove the UIM, as I left the throttle cables attached.



Overall, since I had experience removing the UIM already, the job took me 90 minutes max. I can't give you an exact count as I had to do some work with the spark plugs, but it was quick.
 

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FOR THOSE OF YOU JUST REPLACING THE LIM GASKETS. Here are a few tricks I picked up from Bull Geek on how to do this quickly and without breaking the fuel injector clips.

Instead of removing the fuel rail from the injectors, just remove the entire LIM with the injectors and fuel rail still attached. So remove the 8 (long) LIM bolts, and then just pull the entire thing up and out. That means you don't have to relieve fuel pressure, worry about loosing fuel, or worry about breaking the clips! REMEMBER to leave the 4 short screws for the fuel rail in. Once you get the LIM unbolted, just pull it up and replace the gaskets without moving it too far around (so you don't break the fuel line). This saves quite a bit of time and will help keep things from breaking.

To be honest, removing the UIM was easy (except for the dang EVAP vacuum line). Took me 30 minutes at most from jacking the car up a bit to getting it off and setting it aside. The part that took me an hour was getting the stupid injectors back in the fuel rail. One O-Ring was stuck in the rail and I didn't realize it at first. I screwed around with it for quite a while before I figured out there was an O-Ring still in there! Removed it and it wasn't that hard to get it back on then. So in reality, this job can take LESS THAN 2 hours if you don't remove the fuel rail or have any hiccups along the way. Took me about 2h45min because of the stupid LIM problems.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Some pictures of my removal:

Shop rags over the holes. It's better to stuff an individual one in each hole.


UIM isn't too dirty, just some crap around the old gaskets.


This piece of junk wouldn't come off the UIM. Finally after I took the bolts off of the UIM, I lifted the UIM up and pushed down on the rubber with a screwdriver.


Side view with rail off, LIM on.


Comparison of old to new gaskets. The gasket pictured was the one that was leaking (cylinder #3). It was super flat and obviously couldn't seal well.


Pic of old failed gasket while still on LIM. Compare to the one next to it.


Look how much junk is around the LIM. It's just nasty! I tried to clean some of it out but didn't want it to end up down in the cylinders.

^
You can see how clean the intake valves are though!

Random UIM pic.


UIM bolts. I feel like these were different on other tec's I've removed the UIM from at the junkyard. Maybe I'm wrong.


Random LIM pic's.

What is up with the green and blue painted dots and other markings on the UIM and Valve covers. I noticed that on mine, does that mean JY part or dealer markings?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Markings from the factory during assembly.
 
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