Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

21 - 36 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,579 Posts
Valve seals not too difficult to replace. They usually do not cause too much oil use like rings. Smoke on startup will not be burned off by cats until they get hot.
-chart-

Valve seals usually will give a puff of blue smoke when foot is lifted from gas pedal.



Something is strange about that car! Blue smoke out of the tailpipe at 120k miles is totally unusual. Cats that aren't plugged but yet don't get hot enough to burn a little of oil vapor. Maybe it is just water vapor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,617 Posts
Valve seals usually will give a puff of blue smoke when foot is lifted from gas pedal.



Something is strange about that car! Blue smoke out of the tailpipe at 120k miles is totally unusual. Cats that aren't plugged but yet don't get hot enough to burn a little of oil vapor. Maybe it is just water vapor.
Pic of what plugs look like with valve seal leaking. Oil leaks down when shut down for a period. That burns off when started. Also leak when coasting. (high vacuum) Deposits on plugs but not oil foul. Burns clean when under power.
Rings burn oil under power and the plugs will be oily, black, and crusty.


-chart-
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
I cannot thank all of you enough for your replies, and for helping me.



Pic of what plugs look like with valve seal leaking. Oil leaks down when shut down for a period.

That burns off when started. Also leak when coasting. (high vacuum) Deposits on plugs but not oil foul. Burns clean when under power.
Rings burn oil under power and the plugs will be oily, black, and crusty.

I plan on checking the spark plugs, as I don't have the ability to do a compression test to rule out piston rings.
If I check the spark plugs, I'm assuming if it's piston rings it will be only one oily black spark plug as the cylinders don't fluids, but if it's a bad valve seal, will more than 1 spark plug be greyish? Or will I have to pull all of the spark plugs to see?
And since I plan on checking the spark plugs, will there be any difficulties doing that? People say some V6s are difficult to access, and that I may have to remove the intake manifold to access the spark plug holes. I'm hoping to make this as easy as possible obviously, but not at the expense of missing any problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,617 Posts
I cannot thank all of you enough for your replies, and for helping me.






I plan on checking the spark plugs, as I don't have the ability to do a compression test to rule out piston rings.
If I check the spark plugs, I'm assuming if it's piston rings it will be only one oily black spark plug as the cylinders don't fluids, but if it's a bad valve seal, will more than 1 spark plug be greyish? Or will I have to pull all of the spark plugs to see?
And since I plan on checking the spark plugs, will there be any difficulties doing that? People say some V6s are difficult to access, and that I may have to remove the intake manifold to access the spark plug holes. I'm hoping to make this as easy as possible obviously, but not at the expense of missing any problems.

Oil burning and compression are not always the same. Lots of issues with posters here with compression. Few with oil burning.


I have had 3 cases of valve seals failing. Two on pre cat cars ('72 and earlier) They smoked when coasting and then accelerate. With cat car, big puff on starting, otherwise no issue except for plug foul as in the pic.
My experience, all seals go at one time.


-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Thank you all again and again for replying.


I looked online and made a list of every part I can think of that I needed from Pick and Pull. In total, the parts will cost me about 160-ish dollars, and I made sure to overestimate just so I don't walk in there without enough money, so in reality it'll most likely cost me about 150 dollars in total. I want to make sure that it's just valve seals and not piston rings before I invest into it, as realistically I don't see myself getting an engine rebuild.


Otherwise if all goes well I can and fully intend to get this car back into good shape with a little bit of time and money.
I still have a couple questions that I'll ask when they need to be asked, and my intent is to start work in a week-ish, and I'll make a visit (or several) to pick and pull to get the parts I need.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,699 Posts
Vulcan plugs can be easily done without removing anything. Firewall bank center and pass side plugs need to be done somewhat by feel, but it is still really easy for a FWD V6 engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Remove your wiper cowl for easy access on the Vulcan. Just did mine last month. Makes it very easy. No need to remove intake manifold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,011 Posts
well, my fix it or junk it determination goes on whether the head gasket is blown.
where was it leaking water and how? brown crud in degass tank?
compression check?



you can remove the air plenum and clean the throttle body plate off with a cloth
and proper cleaner. no big deal.


drain the ps fluid, refill it, and bleed it. you might get lucky


you can try to clean the IAC valve. some people say don't do it
i have done it and it seems to work. just don't let it soak too long.


bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I have a 2006 too, and live in similar weather to FL (I live in PR). Mine's covered in narrow dents, and has some issues, definitely nothing too serious yet. The roof is starting to get a tiny bit of rust that you can't even notice yet, I'll have to do something about it. Must be the heat, I don't know. I got mine not so long ago, and has only 69K on it! Which is what sold me on it.

I replaced the ignition coil, spark plugs and wires. The fuel system was dirty and acting up, so I replaced the fuel pump assembly, injectors and fuel filter. I also cleaned the throttle body, IAC and MAF. It runs great now, though the Cats are dead so it's pretty loud, something I'll leave to deal with soon. It also smells because of it. It was misfiring for quite a few miles with the previous owner, so I hope the engine is ok. I haven't noticed any oil burning yet.

I also have the same power steering issue, the pump/fluid can be heard. I was gonna have the fluid changed but I'm afraid of having someone else kill the pump doing a flush.

I did it all by myself with new parts from RockAuto, since other shops are way too expensive. I've only spent about $300 or so on parts. I've compared with other vehicles and this car's parts are as cheap as they can get, and relatively easy to find. So I hope you can fix yours. Hopefully the engine doesn't need to be rebuilt. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Sorry for the radio silence, and again, and again, and again... Thank you for your replies and help.



The car has another very minor quirk with the trunk that I can't explain quite well. Tomorrow I will be uploading a video of the issue which I will add a link to soon.


I noticed something to do with the paint on the hood and roof. The paint looks like bare metal (like a stainless steel sink), but still hasn't rusted like I mentioned in my first post. The paint seems to maybe still have a protective coating on it since it still has the metallic glittery shiny coating that's all over the rest of the car, so I think there still may be some sort of clearcoat or something there (which I doubt, my family practically discarded this car near the end of it's lifespan) so it may not risk rusting. What looked like rusty / limestainy / whiteish may just be primer. Since I know nothing about painting cars I may be dead wrong on this, but I can only hope that I won't have to worry about rust as much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Sorry for not getting the video out, I don't think I'll be able to as my phone is acting up on me.


The paint doesn't really matter much, but I'll try to explain the trunk issue as best as I can:


Whenever you open the trunk, something gets stuck on it. The trunk pops up a little bit, bit won't open any further, like the latch doesn't fully release, or something. In order to get the trunk to open, you have to take your fist and just hit the top of the trunk, and then it'll open just fine. It closes without issue as well. It's been doing this for a while and hasn't increased in severity at all, and isn't much of an issue, just a very, very minor inconvenience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,579 Posts
This is my post on fixing a trunk lid that didn't pop open.



I decided to tackle my one 2001 with a trunk opening issue. Cleaned the latch with solvent but the inside pull handle would not release the latch and the lid didn't pop up. I figured out that the stamped metal case is just a little too tight to let the plastic latch release. I stuck a pick in between the two stamped halves which were touching and spread them open just a little. The space between them is now 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch and the latch works perfect. Latch must have gotten pinched over time.
Attached Thumbnails
 
21 - 36 of 36 Posts
About this Discussion
35 Replies
13 Participants
Automender12345
Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
A forum community dedicated to the Ford Taurus and SHO models, Mercury Sable and Lincoln MKS. Join the discussions on EcoBoost, aftermarket performance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top