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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi. I have a 2006 Taurus with a Vulcan, and the car is in a pretty shoddy condition as of late.


Mechanical Problems:


Seems to have a stuck throttle body, so the engine stays revving, even whilst in gear - FIXED
Alternator doesn't charge the battery as much as it should, problem persists with new batteries
Power steering sounds like a swarm of bees, and the fluid is brown
Car has 120k+ miles on it, and the original trans is beginning to show it's age
Car shudders at points, probably due to transmission
Radiator is filled with water due to a previous leak
Has no AC compressor anymore, only blows warm or hot air
Brakes are terrible, squeak, grind, and are probably so bad that driving this car isn't legal anymore
Burns oil, maybe bad piston rings, but I haven't tested
Car smells like gasoline and smoke after car is revved, probably a bad catalytic converter


Aesthetic or Minor Issues:


Headlights are super foggy and yellow
Weather Stripping is failing in a couple places
Back seat is torn
Front Ford badge is rusty
Hood and roof show bare metal, but haven't rusted





Even after all this the car stills runs, drives, and can do all the things a car should, so I guess the sayings about the Vulcan being hard to kill are true.


This car has been in my family for as long as it's been on the road, and I love it to death. I would be happy to make this my hobby car, and make it truly roadworthy, but it'll probably cost more than spare quarters and nickels to fix properly.
 

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It's easy to get sentimental over a car that's been in the family for this many years. But, you need to take a hard look at the cost of repairs vs replacing it. Then, you've also got the aesthetics to consider regarding whether you want to drive it looking like it does. These cars are cheap...and, from what you describe, I'd bet you could find another 2006 in much better condition for a whole lot less than what you'll have into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's easy to get sentimental over a car that's been in the family for this many years. But, you need to take a hard look at the cost of repairs vs replacing it. Then, you've also got the aesthetics to consider regarding whether you want to drive it looking like it does. These cars are cheap...and, from what you describe, I'd bet you could find another 2006 in much better condition for a whole lot less than what you'll have into it.

Thank you for your reply.
I was hoping that I could find some cheap parts at a junkyard somewhere, as people tend to discard their cars as soon as they need any major work done. The aesthetics don't matter much to me, as this wasn't much of a glamorous vehicle, even when it was in mint condition. All I care about on the paint side of things is preventing rust, and considering the paint has been like that for a while, there must be some coating between the bare metal and the paint, so I hope I won't have to get it repainted within the foreseeable future. I estimate the cost of fixing this car in the 1000$+ range, and I'd be willing to invest that much into it.
I'm not really in much of a place to buy a new car (not one in good condition, at least) so repairing this car seems like the best bet for me.
 

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A 2006 Taurus, Florida car with 120k miles on it sounds like a dream. My 2006 has 206k miles and runs fine. I would invest the time and parts into it. If you need to have someone else to work on it then things can get expensive. I would have the transmission fluid changed and try a new ignition coil to possibly solve the shudder, my 2006 shuddered at 45mph and was cured with the coil.


The stuck throttle body may be the cruise control cable popped off the peg and holding the throttle plate open. Also they get pretty gummed up and stick closed also.



Not sure why the bare metal n the hood but it must be the Florida weather.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I forgot to clarify that I would be working on it myself (for the things that I am capable of, so alternator, power steering, throttle body, etc. Anything that doesn't need special tools)


The stuck throttle body isn't a constant thing, just occasionally.
 

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PS fluid change, and tranny fluid / filter change may fix the PS and tranny issues. Both easy and cheap to do at home.

Sure you dont have a sticking / dirty IAC?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sure you dont have a sticking / dirty IAC?

It happens when the car is in gear, and can move the car sometimes, and it's not just a high idle, it revs till it bounces off of the limiter until you stomp the pedal a couple times. I don't think the throttle body has been cleaned ever, so that's my number one guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for all your replies.



do you live near a Pull a Part junkyard? Half of these problems can probably be fixed in one day.
Yes, I do. My one concern is how much are junkyard parts typically? I know a refurbished PS pump costs like 80 bucks from Autozone and one can assume that parts from a scrapyard would be cheaper. I've never sees a scrapyard's prices so I have no real idea of how much part(s) would actually cost.
 

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Pull a part are going to be cheaper and are usually your better option cause YOU select the part. Most will post their price list or will give you a price list before entering.

I would change the PS fluid and transmission fluid with MERCON V ONLY(I used Supertech Mercon V from Walmart in all my Fords). The high idle could be a vacuum leak, sticking IAC(carboned up), or possibly the throttle plate sticking. Take the TB off, clean it good, look for vacuum leaks. Brakes are brakes.... cheap rotors, quality pads can fix that easily.

You should also give Rockauto.com a look for parts. They are usually fairly cheap and my old wagon had a TON of parts from RA. There's a discount code also at the bottom of the forum in the vendor section.
 

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Another perspective financially. You will not have the expense of depreciation of a new or newer car. You will not have to pay sales tax on a new or newer car. License and registration is less than on a newer car. You can probably save on insurance by having liability only since if it is totaled you will not receive much with full coverage. If you have the ability to do the repairs and maintenance you are not funding labor. If you are willing to get your hands dirty it is a no brainer. Keep it going.

Scott
 

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I prefer to find a solid rust free body and fix it up with JY and RA parts.
Bought what is in the pic soon to be 5 years ago. ~$40 at the Pic a Part for missing things like spare tire and fender liner and broken trim. Struts and shocks, BJ and such from RA and today it is very nice. And then 4 wheels from the JY for $30 per. I prefer rust free used.


Just my take.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you for your replies, and all of your help.


Luckily since I do have a Pick and Pull scrapyard close-ish to me (I got lucky - it's the only one in the state!) I checked their prices and they seem much, much cheaper than any auto parts store or anything like that. That will definitely be the option that I'll be going for, especially considering that there'd be no point in buying brand new or refurbished parts considering the age of this car, and the sheer amount of parts it needs. It seems that finding an alternator, PS pump, rear seat, and any other part I can install myself that doesn't require me to pull the motor itself should be easy enough to find at that scrapyard.



My only real concern is the oil burning, I'm hoping it's just a gasket somewhere, as paying for an engine rebuild would be a last resort for me. I don't think there'd be any frame rust / rot as they don't salt the roads where I live, and the car hasn't been used for anything more than stop and go traffic, so I don't think I'll need a donor car or anything. Every real problem seems to be mostly just powertrain / engine bits and pieces, aside from the brakes.
Hopefully the fluids are the cause of some of the problems, as my family didn't want to invest in this car near the end of it's use, and supposedly the oil was changed around every 10k-15k miles or so, but I don't think anything was changed, just simply added onto, considering every other fluid in the car has turned into brown sludge.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Again, thank you for all of the help and replies.


Just to clarify, the car has blue exhaust smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Could that still be a gasket somewhere?
 

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Again, thank you for all of the help and replies.


Just to clarify, the car has blue exhaust smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Could that still be a gasket somewhere?
Blue smoke means your cats have failed. They will remove the visible smoke. Source of smoke, valve seals or rings.
-chart-
 

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Agree with Chart. One possible clue learned from my 1989 Ranger with 336,000 on original engine at time of junking. The Ranger would put out blue smoke for a minute or two, then stop. I was told that was probably oil leaking past worn valve guide seals sitting overnight. This burns off and then no smoke. Still managed to pass Denver Metro Emissions. If you get constant blue smoke it is probably the rings which for me would lead to rebuild if worth it.


Scott
 

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Agree with Chart. One possible clue learned from my 1989 Ranger with 336,000 on original engine at time of junking. The Ranger would put out blue smoke for a minute or two, then stop. I was told that was probably oil leaking past worn valve guide seals sitting overnight. This burns off and then no smoke. Still managed to pass Denver Metro Emissions. If you get constant blue smoke it is probably the rings which for me would lead to rebuild if worth it.


Scott

Valve seals not too difficult to replace. They usually do not cause too much oil use like rings. Smoke on startup will not be burned off by cats until they get hot.
-chart-
 
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