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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I already know someone is going to say it so i say it just to get it out of the way.
Installing xenon bulbs a.k.a HIDs in a halogen reflector housing not intended for Xenon housing is Illegal for on road use.
Now with that said. i have been working on a way to reduce the glare from Xenon bulbs in my 04 Taurus headlights.
Today after some trial and error i got some results wroth showing.
Before


After



still some glare / scatter but not as bad i have a hunch on what can be causing that.
I update on how i did this soon.
 

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Maybe, a dumb question but why is it illeagle for road use?
Don't worry I won't snitch on you. lol
 

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its illegal to put anything but halogen bulbs in your headlight housing, unless it was a car that came with projectors. in that case, it most likely came with HIDs and even if it didnt, its safe to do it with projectors

EDIT. this was a response to someguyinpdx503, and not a shot at hids or you. i am an hid user myself, not a hater.
 

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HIDs may become the new "tuning/tweaking" craze. I have seen on forums for cars that come with factory HIDs that users are replacing the lenses and bulbs (not the reflectors or housings) in order to optimize the output. Apparently, some car manufacturers use less than the best optics/bulbs, which make an HID system perform on par with a projection halogen system (sometimes worse). One person was investing $200+ in just some esoteric/hard-to-find bulbs.

The never-ending quest for perfection....
 

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Looks good but I hope you using a bi-xenon bulb and not just an xenon bulb. Why, do you ask? Its simple bi-xenon is for high and low, the bulb has 2 filaments. Xenon only has 1 filament meaning it can only be used for high OR low not both. And being that the Taurus is a bi (high/low) system....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks good but I hope you using a bi-xenon bulb and not just an xenon bulb. Why, do you ask? Its simple bi-xenon is for high and low, the bulb has 2 filaments. Xenon only has 1 filament meaning it can only be used for high OR low not both. And being that the Taurus is a bi (high/low) system....
in some of the testing i did it might be better to use one bulb xenon bulb with just a shield to control high and low like in a projector.
the bi-xenon bulb low beam pattern was very similar to the halogen's high beam.
but the Halogen beam pattern was even and not scattered.
i'm thinking by moving the Xenon arc to the same point as the halogen
filament that should give off a lot more light output

Right now i'm working on a design in Inventor will update when done

My goal for this in the end is to make a safe and cheaper way to get more light without projectors
 

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Not possible. If it was possible, you would also have universal eyeglasses. The glare you are producing is terrible. I can tell just by looking at your before and after, even without specialized equipment, it depends on whether or not you know what you are looking for.

In your before picture, I can see the lines that are cast, which are not essential, are clear and precise. The cutoff is relatively unchanged, mostly because the cutoff is just a simple method of blocking light. In your after picture, things are much fuzzier. This appears to be due to two problems. One, you don't have a projector. Your light source is inherently fuzzy, you need a projector to gather and direct the light. A reflector just passes the fuzzy beam on its way. Secondly, the fuzzy light source is causing your camera to loose focus. Don't worry about your camera, it is working correctly, its your light source that is the problem.

If it were possible to fix your issues without projector, it would have been developed by someone by now. I think Daniel Stern said it best, the problems are not caused by poor implementation, they are conceptual problems, and as such cannot be resolved by fancy gimmicks. The problems are being caused by the nature of the light source.

Its a funny side note, but assuming your exposure settings are set correctly, the HID setup certainly doesn't appear any brighter than the first picture. I would also like to point out, that you didn't say what the before and after actually are? Before and after HIDs? Before and after a modification?

For the record, my low resistance relay harness and polished headlights are cheap and easy, brighter than stock, and without any of the issues inherent with an HID conversion.
 

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^+1 Excellent explanation. I'll agree it's almost impossible to get a good clean HID beam pattern without involving lenses. Like you said, it's the nature of the light source that's different, and the headlight has to be designed around it.
 

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Always there will be inconsiderate people that won't give a hoot about what they do to others on public roads. They will use the high beam because they want to see "better" than anybody else. They complain even when they have a proper designed factory HID, because "gives the same light like halogen". Doooh... it's supposed to.

The reflector in a halogen enclosure is designed very specific in relation with the location and size of the two filaments. Putting a different shaped light source in there (the discharge chamber of the HID, that is 10 times bigger) will make a huge scatter. No matter how you shield it. Without a lens to colimate that huge light source, nothing can be done.
There are some HID with integral masking (last letter R like in D4R) but that is not enough most of the time.

The glare can be produce also by the existing policarbonat lens and the haze, tiny cracks in it. The factory HID are required in EU to be equipped with headlamp lens cleaning systems and automatic beam levelling control to reduce the glare. In US is just "recomended". Scientific study of headlamp glare has shown that for any given intensity level, the light from HID headlamps is 40% more glaring than the light from tungsten-halogen headlamps.

Just use efficient halogen bulbs (not long life), check the harness connectors, the grounds, use the auto-lamp (has a relay, instead of the multifunction switch) polish the plastic lens and be done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
it is possible to reduce glare in the housing but to get a good cut off line like the ones in a housing that is meant for the light output of the bulb is most likely that's not going to happen.
Also my camera i was using for those shoots was a DSLR with manual focus
it was off due to the fact that i was trying to hurry before this test went up in smoke. i used a piece of tape to tape parts of the bulb to block some of the light. if your wondering how this ended the bulb didn't make it and the tape wasn't tape anymore. but i got many more xenon bulbs so i don't really care that i lost that one. i got what i wanted out of it.

due to my power source i couldn't show the halogen's
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The best way i have fonud is covering the back part of the light of the Xenon tube almost like the D2R bulbs that helps reduce some of the glare but not all. but in the process of doing that you lose some of the light output and the cut of line and beam pattern are a little better but mostly unchanged. As far this project goes it is done. its pretty much not wroth the time and the amount of money it will take to pull it off with good results. With that said i have moved on.

for about the cost / work it would take to make the H.I.D kit glare free i picked up a set of 3" e55 projectors witch was around $40
As far as the light output it better but not as good and wide as the halogen projectors i pulled of a Lexus at the junk yard but i'm using the e55s for now
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
some updates on my progress so far



well i got the projector to fit in the middle of the reflector. alignment is very good. now i just need to make it look good. order a set of Gatling Gun shrouds. Once i get them i will vacuum mold a piece acrylic over the reflector.
 

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Now that you have projectors installed, it would be nice to see what the beam pattern looks like. I am fine with a conversion that uses the proper parts, and this is exactly what a good conversion should look like. The trick is going to be how to make more than just a single prototype cost effectively. If you can vacuum mold, thats a step in the right direction, the problem I can see with that is that a vacuum mold can deform easily, resulting in multiple parts that are not identical.
 
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