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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need a few tips on the 2004 ford heater problem

The wife car seem a clicking when I turn the heater on will throw heat some time some times warm air.The heat increase dial sometimes will work other times the heat that blows stay the same even at 70 to 90 no change I can get a little better heating if I close the fresh air into the heater box. I find increasing or de-creasing the temp control the clicking noise will stop.The direction on air flow to vents work up ,down,@ defroster no problems.Heater hose to heater core are hot
I here some say the baffle door other say the Blend Door Actuator
I read some were the radio removal will let you get to the 4 bolts holding the door actuator in place ?
I read the clicking noise is a strip gear in the Actuator
ther then that the car heating gauge is in the middle coolant level is o.k.
any tip or tricks will help on removing the Actuator: I read the plastic tip on the actuator but be in the right position before installing.The new part has to be connected ignition turn on and the Temp: control to low setting and watch the white plastic post rotate before re-installing it?????
any other detail would help
I wonder if I can get at it from removing the clove box door ? or does the center radio have to come out
 

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In my '98 i was able to remove the actuator without removing the radio. If I recall correctly I removed the glove box, removed the ashtray, and I think there was an access panel that I removed under the radio as well.

It was a bit tight still but I was able to get mine off. I could then watch its rotation when turning the heat control knob and also inspect the plastic notch on the baffle to see that it wasn't cracked. I think there was a mechanical lever you could move and down to which moved the baffle.

A common mode of failure is the baffle door notch (where the actuator fits into that actually moves it) cracks so that could be something to look at. That looks like a pain to get at so hopefully that isn't it.
 

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Cake monster
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JW: what are a set of din keys look like?
It's basically a strong piece of wire shaped like a horse shoe, you have two of them and you insert them into the two holes on each side of the radio. I hear people make them out of coat hangers, but they're cheap to buy.

din keys - Google Search
 

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^ You can get the radio removal tools (din keys) at walmart or most parts stores for under $5. Insert them fully into the holes on the sides of the radio, and with a little outward thumb pressure, slide (pull) radio out. Be careful, it will still be connected electrically and by the vacuum harness. You can probably rest it on the ashtray or shifter (if on the floor) still connected. Sure sounds like you need a new blend door actuator with the clicking youre hearing. Youve got all the steps right in your first post. I dont recall having to remove the glove box on the ones ive changed out, just the radio. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks guys for all the help great forum here
I like to ask one question more ?
The Blend Door Actuator ? does it increase the heat when pushing the increase heat range button let say from 70 degrees to 90 degrees
I was out to day driving the car a few times you here the clicking now and then I have to shut it off and re-start a few times for the clicking to stop.
I now find the heat is only Luke warm no matter how you increase or decrease the dual indicators for a warmer temperature.
 

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Mercury Sable 96-07 - Providing replacement part for blend door problem, Heat or AC replacement parts, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury

Another reported fail symptom is a clicking sound coming from behind the glove box. This occurs when the motor gears get out of alignment and are slipping against each other, making the noise. Sometimes you can make it stop by pushing down on the back of the motor and getting the gears to catch. This occurs during the calibration cycle described above and the motor will continue to run until it hits the stall point which never occurs if the gears are slipping. The clicking will cause permanent damage to the motor, stripping the gears. The failure usually occurs with a broken blend door that allows the motor to get out of alignment and twist slightly, causing the gears to disengage. The HeaterTreater will put the system back in alignment and correct this problem.
 

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^ Yes, temp. selection is controlled electrically via the blend door actuator. Vent (mode) selection is controlled by vacuum. It sounds like you have eatc (auto) hvac. If so, click on the search feature at the top of this page and type in eatc self test. Or click on the topic finder (up top, too) and scroll down to heating and cooling. Do you have vents for the rear seating, and, if so, are they open or closed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I read the plastic tip on the actuator but be in the right position before installing.The new part has to be connected ignition turn on and the Temp: control to low setting and watch the white plastic post rotate before re-installing it?????

I did take it apart the problem was a bad actuator
I like just double check befor re-installing
TURN THE TEMP TO LOW OR HIGH BEFORE INSTALLING?
 
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