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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I have been doing some research here trying to find which shocks and struts I should get for my project that I have coming up. I have an 04 SES. My bull is sagging all around and needs a pick-me-up. I have 174k miles on it and the suspension is completely stock. I know any brand would help, but I'm looking for specifics, especially for the front, as the rear has been discussed at length on these forums. My choices for the front are Monroe, Gabriel, Sachs, and KYB. Quick struts or not it doesn't matter to me, I'm looking for a nice firm ride. I don't want to bounce around like I'm doing right now. I'm used to my old 325i's firm suspension and I would like the same, either as a quick-strut combo, or a custom combo. Please bull gods let me know. Thanks
 

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At 174K miles on the original components, bouncing around is probably an understatement. Without new springs, you won't fix the all around sag. So, any "quick-strut" will address that. I'd go with the KYB quick struts up front, and KYB struts with Moog cargo coils in the rear. You won't get BMW firm, but it will be much better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes KYB with Moog in the rear seem to be the general consensus here. I've been seeing a lot of mixed reviews for the front end, but I know people's preferences seem to skew their opinions. I prefer a firm ride.
 

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Just did Motorcraft Struts and the cargo coils in the rear of my 03 along with Raybestos pro grade strut mounts. I do not mind the slightly stiffer ride at all and definitely like the back wheels not having all the camber. Only annoyance was that part combination did not include strut washers and the nuts so have to reuse washers and happened to have some new nuts on hand. Rear suspension after after a couple of days driving measures 26 5/8 on one side and 26 3/8 on the other.

My 00 also has a broken rear spring and I ordered another set of cargo coils for it as I like them. It might get the used struts from the 03 to save some money as not only is a spring broken but they both leak too.
 

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I agree with KYB struts, and Moog cargo coils on the rear. I would also replace the front springs with Moog which are slightly stiffer than stock and will match the cargo coils on the rear.
Front spring retainers tend to go around 150-180k miles, rears rarely fail. KYB have a good reputation here.
Ready assembled struts from Sachs are assembled by outside vendor.
Some mail order places have 2 lines of parts. Premium and close out. Close out usually don't have the full warranty and sometimes are missing parts.
You get what you pay for applies
 

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I just put on Monroe Select strut and spring kits on the front of my 04 and it raised the front up about 1.5 inches. I have yet to do the back and they are sagging badly at this point. I have 170,000 on this car. It had all original parts as well. I changed wheel bearing struts, springs, ball joints, and of course strut bearings which were really bad on the old oem parts. The kits make it easy to change them out. And all the parts that wear are replaced all at once. I am going to do the backs sometime soon when a little more money comes my way.
I am happy with the Monroe's at this point. The car rides better and is quieter up front.
 

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For my 2000 Taurus SE OHV,

I also need to replace the rear strut with quick strut.
Based on the discussion here, I have two options:

1> KYB SR4011 Strut-Plus Info
Rear; Sedan $$57.89

2> MONROE 171616 Quick-Strut
Rear; Sedan; w/o Taxi Package $$93.79

My car has around 150,000 mileage. What is the key difference between these two parts?

Thank you
 

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For my 2000 Taurus SE OHV,

I also need to replace the rear strut with quick strut.
Based on the discussion here, I have two options:

1> KYB SR4011 Strut-Plus Info
Rear; Sedan $$57.89

2> MONROE 171616 Quick-Strut
Rear; Sedan; w/o Taxi Package $$93.79

My car has around 150,000 mileage. What is the key difference between these two parts?

Thank you
Hard to tell, as the suspension parts don't depend upon the engine but upon the body style - which you neglected to include. (BTW, we have had PLENTY pf people ask about sedan suspension parts, not knowing whether they work with the wagon or not. Just because you quote price for a sedan part doesn't mean you have a sedan.)

As long as I am on the subject, please update your user profile as the admins have been asking for months, so that we won't have to keep asking people what exactly they have. Thanks ~ ;) (That applies to ALL of you here! :eek: )
 

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Hello all,

I have done some research on the forum regarding to replacing the rear strut with Quick Strut. As far as I see, the most difficult part is to remove the bolt connect the strut to the mounting.

Question 1> How difficult the job is for a junior DIY? Is it true that bolt is very easy to break off because it has been rusted and stuck with the mounting bracket? Any tricks for me so that this job is DIYable and I don't accidently break the bolts while loose it out?

Question 2> For the Stabilizer Bar and Connecting Link, can I simply cut in the middle to remove it because I will replace them with new ones anyway?

Thank you
 

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^ Heat, lube, loosen/tighten sequence and prayer... If 1 breaks, you can drill it out and replace it with a grade#8 7/16" bolt 2-3" long with a matching nyloc (plastic insert) nut. Remember, you have to remove the rear deck to expose the top strut bolts/nuts. Cutting the endlink in the middle won't help. Would need to cut bolts/nuts. Lotsa pb-blaster.
 

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^ Heat, lube, loosen/tighten sequence and prayer... If 1 breaks, you can drill it out and replace it with a grade#8 7/16" bolt 2-3" long with a matching nyloc (plastic insert) nut. Remember, you have to remove the rear deck to expose the top strut bolts/nuts. Cutting the endlink in the middle won't help. Would need to cut bolts/nuts. Lotsa pb-blaster.
@sheila,

I never used the torch before and find the following items through HD.

Bernzomatic WT2301 Self-Igniting Basic Torch Head-336737 - The Home Depot
WT2301 Self-Igniting Basic Torch Head

Bernzomatic 14.1 oz. Propane Gas Cylinder-304182 - The Home Depot
14.1 oz. Propane Gas Cylinder

Q1> Is this simple self-igniting torch good enough for this job?

Q2> If I apply heat, the fire will burn the penetrating oil away. Is that fine?

Q3> Do I need an alignment after the replacement of the rear struts?

Thank you again
 

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Use MAPP gas instead of propane.
 
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^ Heat, lube, loosen/tighten sequence and prayer... If 1 breaks, you can drill it out and replace it with a grade#8 7/16" bolt 2-3" long with a matching nyloc (plastic insert) nut. Remember, you have to remove the rear deck to expose the top strut bolts/nuts. Cutting the endlink in the middle won't help. Would need to cut bolts/nuts. Lotsa pb-blaster.
Ive seen a mechanic just cut the sway bar links with an oxy torch to avoid having to load the suspension. Saves a little time
 

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I just put on Monroe Select strut and spring kits on the front of my 04 and it raised the front up about 1.5 inches. I have yet to do the back and they are sagging badly at this point. I have 170,000 on this car. It had all original parts as well. I changed wheel bearing struts, springs, ball joints, and of course strut bearings which were really bad on the old oem parts. The kits make it easy to change them out. And all the parts that wear are replaced all at once. I am going to do the backs sometime soon when a little more money comes my way.
I am happy with the Monroe's at this point. The car rides better and is quieter up front.
Monroe Police/HD is the only way to go, more and thicker coils will add handling and ride smoothness. Good enough for a Police Cruiser, with all those cars go through, good enough for me.
 

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^ Heat, lube, loosen/tighten sequence and prayer... If 1 breaks, you can drill it out and replace it with a grade#8 7/16" bolt 2-3" long with a matching nyloc (plastic insert) nut. Remember, you have to remove the rear deck to expose the top strut bolts/nuts. Cutting the endlink in the middle won't help. Would need to cut bolts/nuts. Lotsa pb-blaster.
Worth a remembering. See pic, the indexing tab is sitting on the bolt shank/threads. It has pressure on the threads and rusted to them. The attaching tab is welded to the strut above the spindle. You can cut it in two with a hack saw and remove the part resting on the bolt threads. That opens up the gap for putting in your favorite liquid wrench to soak the parts.
-chart-
 

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It's been a long time since I put my quickstruts in and I don't remember that piece and next time the tire is off the car I'll look for it, anyway when you replace the anti-sway bar links get the MOOG problem solvers, they are solid metal and OEM are hollow for some reason, probably a weight thing or just to pass DOT standards or both, if you want to dress it up a little get the blue polyurethane bushings.
 
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