Besides fuses on the equipment itself (including inline fuse), is the megafuse the ONLY fuse an amp could possibly blow in a Gen4?
Neither of the two amps nor the cap are turning on...no lights, no nothing! The remote wires go to both amps from the head unit. So with the head unit being on, you'd suspect the remote wire...but with the cap not coming on then the remote wire isn't the problem. I did check and make sure all the remote connections were solid though!Have you verified the signal wire for the amps is live? Where do you get the signal wire from? Do the amps turn on?
I did use the stock RCU power wire for the head unit...but the head unit comes on just with no sound. But I will check that fuse in the morning just to be sure!did you use the stock power wire that went to the rcu and head unit. if so check fuse 17 in the fuse box under the hood. its a 20A
I checked the inline fuse and it didn’t LOOK blown. It always seemed like that would be the first one to blow and would cause all the symptoms. I think I’ll replace it just in case. I don’t have a DMM handy, so I’ve just been visually inspecting the fuses.Also do you have an inline fuse on the power wire to your cap and 2 amps? If so check and see if that fuse it popped first.
Buying power wire is gunna do anything for you. Fuse wise it will be 17 under the hood or 22 under the dash or the inline fuse on the power wire. check your remote wire, looks for brakes in the wire. Also check the remote wire's connection make sure they're solid. Take out the CAP and just hook up to the amps. Cap is pretty much junk anyways. Using a cap is like using a band-aid on a gash... your still bleeding volts. Also with caps you have to charge them up before you can use them.. So if you just hooked it up with out charging it then it will give you the same symptoms your describing atm. Anyways try it without the cap. IF none of the above works they your amps are all blow which I find hard to believe.I checked the inline fuse and it didn’t LOOK blown. It always seemed like that would be the first one to blow and would cause all the symptoms. I think I’ll replace it just in case. I don’t have a DMM handy, so I’ve just been visually inspecting the fuses.
If the power wire were to have somehow shorted, wouldn’t the FIRST thing it would do is blow the inline fuse?
Plan of action so far is to check fuse 17 and to replace the inline fuse…and if neither of those work, then I’ll try replacing the power wire.