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Well, hammers, torch, and using bolt and nut as a press didn’t work. Resorted to just disconnecting everything from the knuckle and replacing knuckle and hub as a unit..




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Discussion Starter #23
Well, hammers, torch, and using bolt and nut as a press didn’t work. Resorted to just disconnecting everything from the knuckle and replacing knuckle and hub as a unit..




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Wow looks like things didn't work out so well for you. But I bet the car drives nice and smooth now
 

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Yes, the hub wasn’t playing nice with heat, PB Blaster, hammering and fasteners used as a press against the knuckle. Luckily, I thought ahead and bought knuckles so I could just replace the knuckles/hubs as a unit. Just had to disconnect the strut, outer tie rod and ball joint and swap out. After that, it was easy enough. Did both sides. Yes, she’s smooth now.

Had a buddy help me out. He’s the best in my view, so if he couldn’t get the hub out by “traditional means”, no one could. I knew it would be bad from my experience trying to do my rear hubs myself last year (tried slide hammer, sledge, and hydraulic ram w/ spreader, and no luck, had to take it to pro shop).

Lovely road salt, and tight tolerances = having to get creative.. much respect to you for being able to change yours “traditionally”..


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When I did mine, I had the same issue of separating the hub brg from the knuckle. Finally took the knuckle off, backed off the (4) brg mtg bolts half inch or so and beat on those with a 5 lb hammer to drive the brg off the knuckle. Eventually, they separated...but, did distort a few of the bolt heads from repeated pounding. No problem for me, though...just ran down to the local U Pull and picked some replacements.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yes, the hub wasn’t playing nice with heat, PB Blaster, hammering and fasteners used as a press against the knuckle. Luckily, I thought ahead and bought knuckles so I could just replace the knuckles/hubs as a unit. Just had to disconnect the strut, outer tie rod and ball joint and swap out. After that, it was easy enough. Did both sides. Yes, she’s smooth now.

Had a buddy help me out. He’s the best in my view, so if he couldn’t get the hub out by “traditional means”, no one could. I knew it would be bad from my experience trying to do my rear hubs myself last year (tried slide hammer, sledge, and hydraulic ram w/ spreader, and no luck, had to take it to pro shop).

Lovely road salt, and tight tolerances = having to get creative.. much respect to you for being able to change yours “traditionally”..


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The good thing is you thought ahead and ordered the knuckles as well. Nothing beats a smooth ride... I take it you drive yours in the snow? Nothing like having a friend help. Also how much did the shop charge you to swap them out.

From the first snowfall i drove my car in and I can tell you I hated it. Getting stuck everywhere especially for being a front wheel drive vehicle. My 08 300 with same type 19" tires I had no issue in the snow. But ever since the first drive in the snow with the bull. I never once drove it again. Sits the whole winter in the Chicago streets taking up a parking spot. So I believe that's what helped on me being able to get it done traditionally.
 

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Yep, I drive it year round so it gets road salt exposure. When I had to have a professional shop change out the rear wheel bearing hub assemblies, it was ~$350 each. Quite reasonable but I negotiated. They used SKF which is good.


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well, since you took it off, you could have just took it to a small local shop that had more resources
and had them pull it out. even a welding shop or such.
 

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Hi, not bad at all, I use the OTC CV pusher puller tool and the bearing came out easy after unbolting it. I got the tool back in 1989, used it coutless times on family cars. I'm in NC so I did not have any corrosion issues.

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View attachment 216485
Wait, you removed the hub by pressing in on the CV axle? I don't think that's good for the CV joints to apply that much inward pressure to them, unless your Hubs came out a whole lot easier than min did!

This is what I resorted to...Yes those are 1/2" bolts, yes they are bent, yes I twisted off and replaced 2 before the hub came loose, I felt defeated and ended up putting my 1200 ft-lb impact on them and that's what finally got it loose.
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I cut 3 lugs down (so I could fish them out from behind the wheel flange), hammered the 3 lugs out of the hub, put the 1/2" bolts through each hole with a nut behind the wheel flange, held the nut with a wrench and tightened each bolt up to a flat spot on the knuckle and alternated applying tightening each of the 3 bolts to apply a load and wailing on it with a 3# mini sledge. After hours of this (I spent several with a slide hammer and my arm hand were killing me) and twisting off 2 of these 1/2" bolts, I swapped the breaker bar for my Milwaukee M18 High Torque Impact, and hammered on each for a few seconds before I saw it start to move, doused it in PB blaster and continued until it popped off and fell to the floor.
 

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Nice persistence, Shadow! I also removed a lug, and put on a bolt with nut and tried it evenly in 3 different areas. And 3# sledge.. Didn’t work... watched my buddy wail on it like crazy for a half hour, then pulled out the new knuckles and just swapped knuckle/hub. Made it faster. Yes, it did cost me $254 w/ Rockauto for both new knuckles. But, it went from being an 8 hour job to just a couple hours. Had time to go get steak for supper. Made it worth it.


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