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Discussion Starter #1
Well it's time for me to replace my rear wheel hub bearings. Plan on doing both sides. I'm in for the long haul as I've read horror stories... It's a 2013 limited v6. Does anyone have any torque specs for said bolts?
 

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Maybe I live in my own zone but: I am on my 7,8,9th Bull and have had 5 Lin Cont. Never had a wheel bearing needing replacement. Highest mile in my herd now 193K. Of course there are other driving conditions that might lead to fails.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Maybe I live in my own zone but: I am on my 7,8,9th Bull and have had 5 Lin Cont. Never had a wheel bearing needing replacement. Highest mile in my herd now 193K. Of course there are other driving conditions that might lead to fails.
-chart-
I own 2 trailblazers one @ 142k and other @203k, an 08 300 @ 112k and no need for bearings. Apperantly it very common on current bulls for premature failure even at about 32k. Currently my bull at 82k
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good luck, my friend!


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Lol thanks. Well I got it done. It's was a pain but with some little tricks got it taken care off. Possibly even way better I didn't have to do the fronts
 

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Nice job!!! What “tips and tricks” do you have for us? I live in the snow belt and the road salt causes the hub steel and knuckle aluminum to form a bond making the job REALLY hard..


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Discussion Starter #13
Nice job!!! What “tips and tricks” do you have for us? I live in the snow belt and the road salt causes the hub steel and knuckle aluminum to form a bond making the job REALLY hard..


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I live in Chicago so I know all about it... Well the slide hammer was doing anything. Which I knew it wouldn't. So torch the hell out of the hub. Just make sure how to remove the ABS sensor. After it's sizzling attach slide hammer pull on if you can get a little crack out of it. Then use a pneumatic punch in between the hub and the knuckle, to help ease it out once you separate it a little more it'll come out is it. But be very careful as you can read this damage the knuckle. I dug into the knuckle a little bit but nothing too major that a regular sander was able to remove. Being that you live in snowy areas as well make sure you clean the knuckle real good as you will find a lot of s*** in it

^ Looks like ye 'ol slide hammer, lol!
Old slide hammer wouldn't budge it without a lil help
 

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Thanks, Chencho! I’m going to be doing my front hubs this weekend, so I’ll use your tips.


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Aluminum expands more than steel. So science is on your side with heat. Also alum is good conductor of heat so it takes a lot to get it concentrated on the area.
As to the ABS sensor: I had to replace one on a low rust '03 Taurus. Had to drill it out as corrosion had locked it in place. Then used a drum sander on a Dremel to clean up the hole for a new sensor. I have never successfully removed a sensor.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Aluminum expands more than steel. So science is on your side with heat. Also alum is good conductor of heat so it takes a lot to get it concentrated on the area.
As to the ABS sensor: I had to replace one on a low rust '03 Taurus. Had to drill it out as corrosion had locked it in place. Then used a drum sander on a Dremel to clean up the hole for a new sensor. I have never successfully removed a sensor.
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Tho I live in an area in which we get snow and they salt the roads. My car hardly has any rust on the undercarriage as I don't drive it in the winter. Got 2 SUVs for that.. but prior to the heat my sensor came out ever so easily I was actually surprised..
 

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Had to replace front hub bearings on my '99 Taurus wagon at 290K when I did the transmission replacement and front end bushings and ball joints with new struts. Replaced both control arms with Moog from Rock Auto, had the new bushings but no time to press them.
 
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