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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

Newbe here, I have on 07 Bull that will not keep a left front wheel bearing. If I don't get a bad one from the parts house, the car keeps making them go bad. The right front as of 115,711 has not been replaced, has no play and no nioise. Not sure if you have heard of this ?? Any help would be reatly appreciated !!! ;)
 

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Cake monster
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Hey Guys,

Newbe here, I have on 07 Bull that will not keep a left front wheel bearing. If I don't get a bad one from the parts house, the car keeps making them go bad. The right front as of 115,711 has not been replaced, has no play and no nioise. Not sure if you have heard of this ?? Any help would be reatly appreciated !!! ;)
When did you last have the car in for an alignment? What brand bearing did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When did you last have the car in for an alignment? What brand bearing did you use?

It's never had an alignment. But I really thought it never needed one. It does not pull and I just replaced the struts and mounts, and the sway bar end links. The tires have about 25 k on them and are wearing great, but I have replaced the wheel bearing more than I think I should have too, the last one I used was a Timkin wheel bearing from the O and it has a life time on it. The ones before that were house brand, think I need Motorcraft ?
 

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Hey Guys,

Newbe here, I have on 07 Bull that will not keep a left front wheel bearing. If I don't get a bad one from the parts house, the car keeps making them go bad. The right front as of 115,711 has not been replaced, has no play and no nioise. Not sure if you have heard of this ?? Any help would be reatly appreciated !!! ;)
What is the bearing pacnut being torqued to ??

If not torqued to the correct specification, the bearings will always fail prematurely.
 

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When doing work like that to the suspension, an alignment is a good idea. Also, with that many miles, too. Just because it doesn't pull, doesn't mean it's not off somehow.

Also, +1 on the torque specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When doing work like that to the suspension, an alignment is a good idea. Also, with that many miles, too. Just because it doesn't pull, doesn't mean it's not off somehow.

Also, +1 on the torque specs.

OK, That is where I'm sure I messed up then. I recently had my torque wrench calabrated and it was way off almost 18 ftlbs. Took it back to the Snap-on dude and I used it on the car before that ! :argue: Thank You for your help and I will let you know on the out come !!
 

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Torque

OK, That is where I'm sure I messed up then. I recently had my torque wrench calabrated and it was way off almost 18 ftlbs. Took it back to the Snap-on dude and I used it on the car before that ! :argue: Thank You for your help and I will let you know on the out come !!
It is more than just torque. My spec is 180-200.

However, the threads have to be good on the half shaft, and the nut, and how it fits the spline in the hub, washer in place, etc. All that determines the preload on the bearings. Repeat problems usually mean something is not right in the process or hardware. Too loose or too tight mean bearings do not last. This is in the class of critical, like engine bearing bolts, and head bolts.

Bearing failure is not common. I have had 8 Taurus/Sables and never replaced one. Junk yard is full of cars with the hub still there, only the strut missing. Broken springs likely the common issue. I have had my share.

Good Luck in the fix.

-chart-
 

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Thrust loads on a bearing will reduce its life tremendously. Alignments are a must to keep the forces as central as possible. I'd post the formula calculating bearing life with a thrust load, but I can't seem to find my mechanical design book right now. Trust me though, its pretty signifigant.
 

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It's never had an alignment. But I really thought it never needed one. It does not pull and I just replaced the struts and mounts, and the sway bar end links. The tires have about 25 k on them and are wearing great, but I have replaced the wheel bearing more than I think I should have too, the last one I used was a Timkin wheel bearing from the O and it has a life time on it. The ones before that were house brand, think I need Motorcraft ?

I'd go with motorcraft. I've got 180k on my original front bearings all the way around. Rock auto has em for about $77. My second choice would be timken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'd go with motorcraft. I've got 180k on my original front bearings all the way around. Rock auto has em for about $77. My second choice would be timken.

Yes, I hope I have fixed that problem. I went to a friends shop and used his TQ wrench and made all the necessary bolts to their torque values. However now that I have replaced the struts I'm getting a hammer tapping on the firewall sound comming from the Pass side. I have checked all the bolts and installation of everything and even had 2 other people look at it, and I can not for the life of me find where its comming from :angry:

It only happend in a rapping bump situation, like a washboard gravel road or the noise lines on the side of the highway? Any thoughts ????
 

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Noise

Yes, I hope I have fixed that problem. I went to a friends shop and used his TQ wrench and made all the necessary bolts to their torque values. However now that I have replaced the struts I'm getting a hammer tapping on the firewall sound comming from the Pass side. I have checked all the bolts and installation of everything and even had 2 other people look at it, and I can not for the life of me find where its comming from :angry:

It only happend in a rapping bump situation, like a washboard gravel road or the noise lines on the side of the highway? Any thoughts ????
Yes:
Sway bar end links.

Common reason for thumps.

Hard to check them. Really have to jack up both sides, and remove one nut and relieve any tension, then check each link end.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes:
Sway bar end links.

Common reason for thumps.

Hard to check them. Really have to jack up both sides, and remove one nut and relieve any tension, then check each link end.

-chart-

OK, so I replaced both of the sway bar end links. And I now have a scratching and thumping sound now !! I am really :angry: !!! What else could it possiably be, I have new struts new ball joints, strut mounts, wheel bearings, CV axles, end links, trans mount, AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !!!!!!!!!!!:rant:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes:
Sway bar end links.

Common reason for thumps.

Hard to check them. Really have to jack up both sides, and remove one nut and relieve any tension, then check each link end.

-chart-

OK, so I replaced both of the sway bar end links. And I now have a scratching and thumping sound now !! I am really :angry: !!! What else could it possiably be, I have new struts new ball joints, strut mounts, wheel bearings, CV axles, end links, trans mount, AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !!!!!!!!!!!:rant:
 

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Are the bushings of the antiroll (sway) bar OK? Seems that with the new control arms you are "pushing" harder in those bushings in turns (when car is "tilting" on one side).
 

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What brand of ball joint did you use?
 

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I have used Timken and Federal Mogul replacement hubs and never had one go bad. Just my 2 cents...
 

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Step back, have a beer, and relax. Find a good buddy with a good ear. Get him in the car and let him troubleshoot it. You're frustrated and you need a break.
I do this all the time with my bud, and he figures it out in like three seconds, because he hasn't been balls deep in your car for the past month.

My honest guess... Its related to the swaybar. Bushings maybe. Possibly tranny/motor mount also. Torque strut on top maybe worn alowing the motor to move quite a bit, and your heater lines may be rubbing on the firewall.


Beer. Beer. Beer. Rest. Resolve. Post findings.
 

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I have used Timken and Federal Mogul replacement hubs and never had one go bad. Just my 2 cents...
Yeah, federal mogul and timken IIRC are the same company (not %100) on that. But I'm pretty sure one of the two mentioned makes motorcraft. The timken bearing were $85,and the Motorcraft were $77. My ford parts dude matched the rockauto price for me w/o shipping. Hell of a guy, got my business.
 
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