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Discussion Starter #1
I'm back with more questions. This time I have pictures! LoL

The car is a 2005 Sable, Vin code S.

1) I have a pinhole leak in the short hose highlighted in red. Looks like it goes from the engine block to the water pump? I can't seem to find it on the parts store website for a 2005. The closest thing I can find is called a bypass hose but it's not listed for the 2005 on the AutoZone site. Anyone know what it is called and/or a motorcraft part #?

2) I can see the clamps on the ends of the hose, an if I contort my hand I can touch them but I can't seem to figure out how to get them off. Is there a procedure for this? A special tool maybe that can grab both sides of the clamp to release?

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One shop gave me a $450 quote, another gave me a $250 quote. With the current situation and work closed money is beyond tight so I am hoping to do this myself. Any advice will be very much appreciated, I have another car I can drive right now but it doesn't have AC and with the heat in the high 80's I would love to get this one back into rotation.
 

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You need a hose clamp tool available at any auto parts store to remove the constant tension clamps that come from the factory. Should be $15 to $20 locally or cheaper online.
 

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Definitely get the hose clamp tool. Then, remove the water pump belt cover (easy to do) to gain better access to the end that goes to the water pump. Then, if I remember correctly, you can bend that end of the hose up enough to gain access to the lower end that connects to the engine block. I think the part number is 6E5Z-8A577-A as I've seen it described as Upper Hose Between Water Pump and Engine. The shape in illustrations looks correct...but, do your own research.
 

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Go buy the tool then go buy the screw clamps. I despise those stupid factory bull crap clips, I get rid of them on every car I work on
 

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I just did this job on my 2002 Taurus this week. To access the hose & clamps, I removed the metal water pipe, 2 small bolts, replace the 2 O-rings. Also consider replacing the water pump. Be forewarned that some of the pieces that must be disconnected are hard plastic that becomes brittle over time and falls apart. The hose itself is Gates #22571 the WP is Gates # 41011 (BELT TENSIONOR MOUNTS TO PUMP CASE) Your picture looks just like my engine. The special tool is essential. A dremel is useful for cleaning fittings. The hose assembly that is between the battery and the belt cover is partly plastic and must be removed to do the job. For the short hose under the belt cover I had to cut a piece from a curved section by eyeballing the bend. Trust me, a length of straight hose WILL NOT WORK! If you run into problems or have questions send me a message. :)
 

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Spring clamps work because, as the rubber ages they continue to add near constant force. I use worm drive clamps where hard to get to, but have had to re-tighten them. I have the tool for ford spring clamps. My OE hose last bought came with the spring clamps with the keeper. Just pop the keeper and it is done.
-chart-
 

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I never knew they existed until automender posted a photo of one. I had to have one for my tool box even though my repair days are much shorter as I age. The stealership does lots of my simple stuff now. At least I have one now when the grandkids come here to work on their cars .
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just did this job on my 2002 Taurus this week. To access the hose & clamps, I removed the metal water pipe, 2 small bolts, replace the 2 O-rings. Also consider replacing the water pump. Be forewarned that some of the pieces that must be disconnected are hard plastic that becomes brittle over time and falls apart. The hose itself is Gates #22571 the WP is Gates # 41011 (BELT TENSIONOR MOUNTS TO PUMP CASE) Your picture looks just like my engine. The special tool is essential. A dremel is useful for cleaning fittings. The hose assembly that is between the battery and the belt cover is partly plastic and must be removed to do the job. For the short hose under the belt cover I had to cut a piece from a curved section by eyeballing the bend. Trust me, a length of straight hose WILL NOT WORK! If you run into problems or have questions send me a message. :)
Thanks everyone, and sorry for the late reply. Things got crazy with the whole covid-19 thing and I have been extremely busy. My remote cable hose clamp pliers finally arrived on Saturday so I gave it a swing yesterday with no luck. I was hopeful that it would slip right in there and I would be done in no time but from Bob's post above and my attempts it looks like I have a lot more to take apart before I can even come close. I still have a feeling that with the right long handled needle nose pliers and the right angle I might be able to get to the clamp on the block end, but with the spring clamp facing down under the hose on the pump end it is going to be complicated. The remote cable hose clamp pliers may still work after disassembly, thanks for the info Bob that's more than likely the road I am headed down and will probably have some questions along the way.

Hope you are all staying safe through all of this!!
 

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PS: The pump end hose clamp was so difficult to access that after a few attempts with my arsenal of pliers, I cut the hose in half and removed the pump!
 

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I've used a Dremel to grind through clamps that are too difficult to access.... Cut 'em in half and they fall off, replace w screw clamps. (Stock spring clamps are better, of course.)
 

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bring the hose, once off, to autoparts store and they may have close fit by inspection with all available.
 
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