hi, I have a 1997 Sable LS with 192k on it. I keep up with basic maintenance, and am planning on keeping it long term. Only MAJOR expense in last 8 years was a trans rebuild, about $2000. If your 99 is not rusted out, I would keep it. it's running, paid for, well taken care of, why not? I have no experience with a 2010, but the newer a car is, the more complex it is, and harder to fix. good luck, gz
What to do? Keep 1999? Buy 2010?
Hi guys,
I have a dilemma...I have a 1999 SE taurus. Love the car, does have 218k miles, but I've replaced a lot of things over the years and it really does drive well. Some of things I've replaced are: water pump, alternator, radiator, front struts, all brake hoses, calipers, drums, brake lines, head gasket, fuel pump, etc....
My wife is encouraging me to find a newer car. I get it, the 1999 won't last forever but she's doing good right now. Only repair I see myself doing in next several months is replacing the water pump and timing chain cover (this will be third one) as there seems to be very very slow leak at bottom of timing cover.
Anyway, I found a nice looking 2010 AWD SEL Taurus near me. It does have 130k miles. But looks like it has been well taken care of.
My goal here is to try to make it another 4-5 years with either my current taurus or the 2010 one. I only drive it about 10k miles a year, and we have another reliable car I can use if there's a breakdown.
I also feel very comfortable working on the 1999, have all the tools, repair manual etc. Repairing the water pump/timing cover on my current one again doesn't phase me (just know it will take me a whole weekend haha!), but I would also want to replace the water pump and timing belt on the 2010 one and have never worked on one of those.
So my question, have any of you guys had a 2010 taurus before and have any recommendations if it could make it from 130k miles to 180-190k miles headache free (again I was thinking about trying to replace water pump, timing belt, and maybe fuel pump right after I'd purchase)? If I buy the 2010, I'd like to do these big items then just do regular stuff (oil changes, brakes, fluids, etc).
Or if my goal is only 4-5 years @ 10k a year, am I crazy to keep the 1999? I love it, thing has never failed me...but again I've never had a car this old either.
I'd appreciate any thoughts you all have! Thanks for all the advice on other issues I've had in the past
I have a dilemma...I have a 1999 SE taurus. Love the car, does have 218k miles, but I've replaced a lot of things over the years and it really does drive well. Some of things I've replaced are: water pump, alternator, radiator, front struts, all brake hoses, calipers, drums, brake lines, head gasket, fuel pump, etc....
My wife is encouraging me to find a newer car. I get it, the 1999 won't last forever but she's doing good right now. Only repair I see myself doing in next several months is replacing the water pump and timing chain cover (this will be third one) as there seems to be very very slow leak at bottom of timing cover.
Anyway, I found a nice looking 2010 AWD SEL Taurus near me. It does have 130k miles. But looks like it has been well taken care of.
My goal here is to try to make it another 4-5 years with either my current taurus or the 2010 one. I only drive it about 10k miles a year, and we have another reliable car I can use if there's a breakdown.
I also feel very comfortable working on the 1999, have all the tools, repair manual etc. Repairing the water pump/timing cover on my current one again doesn't phase me (just know it will take me a whole weekend haha!), but I would also want to replace the water pump and timing belt on the 2010 one and have never worked on one of those.
So my question, have any of you guys had a 2010 taurus before and have any recommendations if it could make it from 130k miles to 180-190k miles headache free (again I was thinking about trying to replace water pump, timing belt, and maybe fuel pump right after I'd purchase)? If I buy the 2010, I'd like to do these big items then just do regular stuff (oil changes, brakes, fluids, etc).
Or if my goal is only 4-5 years @ 10k a year, am I crazy to keep the 1999? I love it, thing has never failed me...but again I've never had a car this old either.
I'd appreciate any thoughts you all have! Thanks for all the advice on other issues I've had in the past
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Thanks amcfool1, yes rust is a good point. I have some around my pinch welds, and have had to do a couple of "bondo" jobs around each rear fender. But they came out pretty good. I caught the rear rocker panel rust early a few years ago and used some rust bullet paint + foam spray with long screws (thanks @chartmaker ) to fix that. I check a few times a year under car for rust and it's not too bad.
Yeah I agree with you...the 2010 is going to have more electrical/different parts I'm not familar with. That's a big concern.
How much do you drive your sable a year, just curious?
Yeah I agree with you...the 2010 is going to have more electrical/different parts I'm not familar with. That's a big concern.
How much do you drive your sable a year, just curious?
If you have rust in the rockers that you had to use foam and screws then you really need to assess if there really a possible five years left. Not sure where you live but rockers are structural on the Taurus. All my Taurus have gone to the scrapyard for body rot long before they became mechanically unreliable.
Another thought to add to the dilemma, the 2010 probably has the 3.5 lt. with the grenading water pump inside the engine. Had I done the research prior to purchasing my '17, I probably would not have bought it. Now that I have it and love it, a major job like a water pump will just have to be a bridge to cross when I get there.
hi, I daily drive my 97, 20 miles to work and back, round trip. Had it repainted last year, original Performance White. car looks and runs good, and, at 26 years of age, is now eligible to show in AACA shows. 
My next repair is going to be replacing the rear struts, starting to sit a bit low back there. good luck, gz
My next repair is going to be replacing the rear struts, starting to sit a bit low back there. good luck, gz
No timing belt on a 2010. Yes, the Cyclone does have the internal water pump which is a bi*** to service yourself, it's about $2k-$3k to have a dealer do last I called. My local shop refused to touch the pump, or I'd have had them do it as preemptive maintenance.
In general, you can keep the pump happy by keeping the coolant fresh - I drain/fill every 2 years, plus I never had the orange Dexcool-alike as 2010-2011 had the Specialty Green coolant (which has been replaced by the new yellow). Sitting at 166k on mine and most of what I've had to replace has been small annoying items - alt at 135k, one O2 sensor about the same time, cooling fan at 150k (15 minute job), recirc BDA about the same time.
It does depend on how much they want for that 2010. Used car prices are still pretty inflated, but the decline's been slow enough that I'm not sure if waiting even a year would really help.
In general, you can keep the pump happy by keeping the coolant fresh - I drain/fill every 2 years, plus I never had the orange Dexcool-alike as 2010-2011 had the Specialty Green coolant (which has been replaced by the new yellow). Sitting at 166k on mine and most of what I've had to replace has been small annoying items - alt at 135k, one O2 sensor about the same time, cooling fan at 150k (15 minute job), recirc BDA about the same time.
It does depend on how much they want for that 2010. Used car prices are still pretty inflated, but the decline's been slow enough that I'm not sure if waiting even a year would really help.
I have had/have 11 Bulls from '87-'05. Only water pump '87. One '03 to the JY for rust and at 199K still on OE pump. My Buick Lucerne WP fail at ~70K and shop charged 1.0 hours to replace. I do keep the coolant exchanged on all mine.No timing belt on a 2010. Yes, the Cyclone does have the internal water pump which is a bi*** to service yourself, it's about $2k-$3k to have a dealer do last I called. My local shop refused to touch the pump, or I'd have had them do it as preemptive maintenance.
In general, you can keep the pump happy by keeping the coolant fresh - I drain/fill every 2 years, plus I never had the orange Dexcool-alike as 2010-2011 had the Specialty Green coolant (which has been replaced by the new yellow). Sitting at 166k on mine and most of what I've had to replace has been small annoying items - alt at 135k, one O2 sensor about the same time, cooling fan at 150k (15 minute job), recirc BDA about the same time.
It does depend on how much they want for that 2010. Used car prices are still pretty inflated, but the decline's been slow enough that I'm not sure if waiting even a year would really help.
My last purchase (last Saturday) was a Buick LaCross '05. I will not run the risk with the pump inside an engine. Since I am 83 likely will not buy another car. Looked for a good G-4 Bull but could not find any in my driving range so gave up and went GM. The 3.8 is dark ages history. Still have one Bull, my '04 Sable wagon and one '03 sedan looking for selling for ~$500 or to the JY. Depends on if it passes inspection.
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Keep it and save big money. My '99 Wagon has 307K on it, '99 Sable 286K. I do all my own repairs. Best part is no more emission inspections, just safety!
Keep it, but keep saving more money to buy the most reliable and repairable newer car you can afford when this one dies. I usually spend a couple days a month checking out what is up for sale, and being from the rust belt, i usually look much further south and west. Bought my kids '07 taurus in nashville, bought one of my buicks in southern ohio and my expedition (most recent purchase) was from southern VA. All of them are incredibly rust free. Once here for a while, i get them rust proofed at Rust Kote. 3 of the 4 have been done there, the truck is going soon. There are other places with a similar type of rust proofing.
I have '95 in great shape, and I also do my own maintenance. To be honest, if you like the '99 then I'd keep it. The money you save on the purchase price of the newer car could be put in the bank for a bunch of repairs on the '99. On the other hand, I live in CA so don't have the rust issues. I have 165k on the clock right now, and like a previous poster, my only big expense was having to have the transmission rebuilt last year. It's a wonderful car IMHO.
Pic of one I would buy but too far away for this old coot. Near Richmond VA. 58K miles. Still for sale.Keep it, but keep saving more money to buy the most reliable and repairable newer car you can afford when this one dies. I usually spend a couple days a month checking out what is up for sale, and being from the rust belt, i usually look much further south and west. Bought my kids '07 taurus in nashville, bought one of my buicks in southern ohio and my expedition (most recent purchase) was from southern VA. All of them are incredibly rust free. Once here for a while, i get them rust proofed at Rust Kote. 3 of the 4 have been done there, the truck is going soon. There are other places with a similar type of rust proofing.
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There could be arguments made for new(er), maybe nicer. I've been thinking about trading for a Flex myself. But some of these newer cars have oddities that when you keep high mile ones seem to create problems - mechanically, stuff like displacement on demand or variable valves, sealed transmissions - but it seems like the electronics can cause far more havoc. My wife's, the AC was going in and out, turns out to be the PCM reading data incorrectly, but that was $700; the truck, the pcm reads the IAT, MAF, and throttle (drive by wire) and calculates an expected solution for the manifold air pressure and goes to low power if they don't match - but the other three can be "in spec" but off just enough to trigger the cel as the map sensor although that sensor is good. Been there...
Arguement for keeping the old one - or at least finding a great example of a 3rd or 4th gen that's new to you. Number one, familiarity. It saves so much time, hassle - and money for new tools - I have a growing collection of tools specifically for one vehicle 🙄. If your car has a great track record, fix it till it gets too expensive or till it literally breaks. Maybe look for a new to you one, keep the other till the new one proves itself - and maybe use for parts or swap the trusty drivetrain into a great body with a bad engine/tranny.
We drove that generation of bulls. Ups - it felt tighter, more European, nice fit and finish - but, we felt low in the car, and for it's size it felt the same size inside as a Fusion and slightly smaller than the Sonata we were passing on to our son. Still very nice.
Arguement for keeping the old one - or at least finding a great example of a 3rd or 4th gen that's new to you. Number one, familiarity. It saves so much time, hassle - and money for new tools - I have a growing collection of tools specifically for one vehicle 🙄. If your car has a great track record, fix it till it gets too expensive or till it literally breaks. Maybe look for a new to you one, keep the other till the new one proves itself - and maybe use for parts or swap the trusty drivetrain into a great body with a bad engine/tranny.
We drove that generation of bulls. Ups - it felt tighter, more European, nice fit and finish - but, we felt low in the car, and for it's size it felt the same size inside as a Fusion and slightly smaller than the Sonata we were passing on to our son. Still very nice.
It's a good idea to understand if her underlying reason is because she is embarrassed by the Taurus. Happy wife, happy life may be the reason to listen to her. If not, then there doesn't seem to be any reason to change.My wife is encouraging me to find a newer car.
Tossing in my 2 cents, keep it, drive it, sock away a couple hundred every month in an account for a "newer" car. If repairs exceed 75% of value, time to let her go. I know I'll miss my 02 Wagon when rust kills her
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