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As the title suggests I’m wondering what is a fair price for 100,000 or more mileage of a GEN4, 2000 to 2007, wagon. I do know that the wagon didnt go to the full generation. But I’m just trying to get an idea or possibility of finding one & cost.
 

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I bought this from a dealer nearly 5 years ago for 4K. FL car no rust but needed a bit of JY parts. Now at 150K very nice running car. Top price today maybe $3K but that is my op.
-chart-
 

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Condition is everything on these cars due to body rot under the chassis. I just junked a 2001 with 121k miles that looked near perfect from ten feet away but rocker panels and floor was pretty bad. My remaining 2006 is getting bad also. At 100k expect to do at least $1000 in repairs in a year or two.
 

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guess I was kinda vauge on the condition requirements. Want a structured sound rust/rot free & a solid transmission that’s always had good wheel alignment since that’s the week point of the transmission of these cars. As for the motor I’m a little more open because a replacement 3.5 v6 are fairly cheap. Body & trans condition are my main concerns. I’m in Tulsa Oklahoma Metro by the way. some dealers are way to proud as I seen some wagons listed well over 5k.,one from last year was listed at $7995 for a 127k. That was moronic overpriced of course. I have had several Taurus’s in my life. In fact my first car was a 1987 GL Sedan in the Light/Sky Blue Metallic.
 

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As the title suggests I’m wondering what is a fair price for 100,000 or more mileage of a GEN4, 2000 to 2007, wagon. I do know that the wagon didnt go to the full generation. But I’m just trying to get an idea or possibility of finding one & cost.
See pic of Bull door, and note rust. Car had 15K miles. Careful look at pics sometimes dead give away. Low miles are not worth much. See pic of my Taurus. I bought this nearly a year ago, one owner, well maintained, no wrecks, no smoking, and low rust underside. 107K miles, came from Duncannon PA just north of Harrisburg. I find low rust there and south. I bought my '11 Buick Lucerne from Harrisburg, 2 years ago, no sign of rust yet. I am in serious rust belt. U can fix most anything but rust.
-chart-
 

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Not sure of OK and rust but I agree with the rust point of view. I let go of several because the body was just gone. My first car, a 2001 SES had no rocker covers left, no wheel well arches and the subframe was basically dirt, all at 170k, beautifully running and driving too. I bought my 2013 from CA to stop dealing with it. Other than that, I've seen black ATF in these many times. Not changing it is the weak point that leads to failure a lot of the time. Also, weak rear springs since they didn't compensate for the extra weight on the redesign, causing them to sag in the rear. Not a huge job, but definitely worth considering replacing since it's not only sagging but affects handling.
My .02+ cents
 

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Springs do not sag with age. As long as the outside surface remains free of rust, they will last and retain their original performance. Thus makers coat the springs with plastic to keep the rust away and they retain their performance. However in the real world, the plastic cracks and water gets between the steel and coating and rust sets in. The pic shows the late stage where the plastic breaks away and you can see the loss of life. They will break in the worst rust area. The spring in the pic has already had the bottom coil break off.
At least the G-4 have factory soft rears and the fronts are a bit soft also. The wagons have strong rears. I am on my 3rd wagon. Haul everything you can put it with ease. I have 2 '03 sedans, which my daughter drives. When the rear looks low, I have her empty the trunk. Helps a bunch.
After market springs are stiffer along with stiffer struts.
My last front spring break was in past Dec. Broke in the middle. RUST. FL car before I got it. 4 NY winters and BANG.
-chart-
 

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My brother flew one way from Spokane to Seattle after talking to a seller, he paid I think $1,900. 2005, 140K miles and drove it back. Private seller tired of dealing with people.

I recently bought a 2002, Taurus, 117k miles $1,500. Kind of beat up on outside as old owner bumping off guardrails, but hey, work car. WA state. I did the timing chain water gasket dance, new water pump, etc. 3k miles later and running strong.

These cars are turning 20 year’s old now, in car years there getting old and the prices should be reflecting this but there is pressure as the need of a good used car is in demand vrs newer car payments.
A $2k, to $4K (with exceptions) would be my range for a running Gen 4, but at those years expect the unexpected repair and I use that fact to reduce price down as issues are pending, maybe. My .02 cents.
 

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I bought my ‘04 LS Premium wagon five years ago with 90,000 and paid 4K for it. It took six months of searching to find what I was looking for. One owner car that a dealer got ahold of and put on Craigslist. I was glad to pay the 4K for this loaded wagon. Moonroof, heated leather seats, Mach stereo and special rims. Car now has 145K on it and body is solid. My ‘00 wagon’s rockers were gone by 180K.
Expect to pay 2500- 3K for something like the condition mine is in currently.
 

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As other have said, condition is going to be the #1 selling and pricing factor. I've seen really nice, low mile, well taken care of wagons (which were only till 2005) that are in the 3-5K range. But I've seen some really beat down, high mileage ones in the couple hundred dollar range. Your market also determines price. Here in Jersey wagon's are not as desirable so I wasn't able to get much for my 2001 with over 210K miles when I sold it. There's a lot of variables.
 

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Some want price, some want condition. I like both but lean hard to condition, especially rust or the lack of that.
Price varies wildly. I skip unreasonable price on the face of it. Just my take.
And there are cars that have been around too much. See att.
-chart-
 

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I paid just over $1000 to a guy who was asking "$1200 Firm" on a 2001 LS Premium Sable wagon. It had high miles (about 210K), but ran/runs great with frequent oil changes and lots of new parts and little rust. I've more than gotten my money out of it and will likely keep it when I buy something else, it's great in the snow with Dunlop winter tires...
 

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Be aware the '01 is a one year only fuel system, and next year the Alt is different. I had '01 wagon and now have '03 wagon. If you replace the fuel filter, there is a trick which I will share if you like.
-chart-
 
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