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Discussion Starter #1
Got a question. My 2000 Taurus wagon was clunking in the front suspension when I drove over bumps. I removed the stabalizer links and the clunking went away. I drove the car for about a week before going to Autozone and replacing them. I put new ones on and the car is clunking again after a week of driving. My wife drives the car to and from work (15 miles round trip at 35mph). Will i hurt anything if I just take the stabalizer links off and keep them off. Let me know your input. Thanks.
 

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You would effectively have no swaybar. Makes for ****** handling.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There isn't too much handling going on at 35mph. I noticed that the eyelet where the link bolts to the strut bracket would still need a bolt and a nut attached. Im more worried about the stabalizer link having an affect on alignment, tire wear, etc.
 

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They deleted the rear sway bars in the 04 model year! :(
 

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QUOTE (rock @ Apr 28 2009, 06:58 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=721444
There isn't too much handling going on at 35mph.[/b]
You'd be surprised. I watched a GN that was drag-prepped (ie, no sway bars) driving around a corner once, and at less than 20MPH, that thing was leaning worse than Chris Tucker and Ice Cube in Friday.

[attachment=29322:882833_h...width560.jpg]
 

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QUOTE (silvapain @ Apr 28 2009, 09:29 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=721463
QUOTE (rock @ Apr 28 2009, 06:58 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=721444
There isn't too much handling going on at 35mph.[/b]
You'd be surprised. I watched a GN that was drag-prepped (ie, no sway bars) driving around a corner once, and at less than 20MPH, that thing was leaning worse than Chris Tucker and Ice Cube in Friday.

[attachment=29322:882833_h...width560.jpg]
[/b][/quote]
:rofl2:
 

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QUOTE (Skinnyguy59 @ Apr 28 2009, 09:32 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=721464
QUOTE (silvapain @ Apr 28 2009, 09:29 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=721463
QUOTE (rock @ Apr 28 2009, 06:58 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=721444
There isn't too much handling going on at 35mph.[/b]
You'd be surprised. I watched a GN that was drag-prepped (ie, no sway bars) driving around a corner once, and at less than 20MPH, that thing was leaning worse than Chris Tucker and Ice Cube in Friday.

[attachment=29322:882833_h...width560.jpg]
[/b][/quote]
:rofl2:
[/b][/quote]
:bowrofl:
 

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QUOTE (rock @ Apr 28 2009, 06:51 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=721441
I put new ones on and the car is clunking again after a week of driving.[/b]
ONE WEEK? Good Lord, what kind were they? Did they have grease zerks? I just got some new ones from NAPA 3 days ago, I hope they last more than another 4 days!!! I did notice they didn't have any grease in them out of the box, but they came with grease zerks to fill them up:

 

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Might check and make sure you don't have a broken spring. Something like that could put extra stress on the sway bar links.
 

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Check your swaybar bushings.
 

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Did you get the new Duralast metal ones, where the left side is greaseable and the right side isn't? They are JUNK. I got less than 5,000 miles out of a set before they started clunking, and that was 90% highway miles. The greasable one was obviously falling apart by then, and leaks grease from the cap behind the ball joint. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got the stabalizer links from Autozone for $19.99 each. Neither one has any grease fittings or inserts for grease fittings. I guess I should get under the car and check the busings and springs. Are there any adjustments for the struts ? Don't laugh at me.............I'm a Chevy guy with 7 G-Body Malibu's. I can build those things from the ground up. I drag race 3 of them. Anyway, I love the Taurus wagon, but lack the knowledge of how they function. Outside of visually looking at the strut and spring, I wouldn't know whats good or bad. Not to mention how incredibly dumb the stabalizer link assembly goes on. They could have came up with a better (more user friendly) design. I couldnt get the drivers side link on with normal hand tools. For the entire job, I had to use a combination of different wrenches, sockets, vice grips, hammer, and then an impact because I couldnt get to the drivers side upper nut. Crazy...............
 

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I would definitely check the springs and swaybar bushings. The springs, because they are prone to failure depending on your location, and the bushings, because without they could be a source of the noise if they are on the way out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK. So I finally get a chance to look under the car and I find the problem. The lower nut on the passenger side stabalizer link was not tight any more. The nut "Backed" itself back about a half an inch. This was causing the clunking noise. I thought when I put them on I should have used a lock washer. The ones that came off had lock washers but the new ones from Autozone only had a nut with pinched notches to prevent the nut from backing off. The nut also had anti-reverse teeth on the face of the flat surface that was suppose to prevent this from happening. I took the nut off and put a lock washer on with it. The other nuts were tight on the rest. Lets see how long this last before I have to go back and put lock washers on all of them.
 

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Addressing the original question - I'd be very reluctant to simply disconnect the front sway bar. As noted, it has no impact on alignment, but will make handling / body roll sloppy.

But worse, it greatly increases the chances that the car will exhibit terminal oversteer - ie a swerve in rain etc could result in a snap spin. By softening the front roll resistance, the roll resistance is effectively shifted to the back, meaning the rear is more likely to break loose first. Not a happy thing for most wives! :eek:

Maybe a defective locknut to have backed off so far so quickly?
 
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