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Drain and filled my transmission today on my 2008 Ford Taurus SEL FWD with 145300 miles. Put about 5.5 quarts of fluid in to replace 6 quarts of fluid that came out (my fluid was slightly overfilled). The fluid was brown but did not have a burning smell or see any metal shavings. I took my car for a test drive and could tell an immediate difference. Its shifting quite smoothly and has much more of a response. No more harsh shifts and the 1-2 hard shift has gotten much less noticeable. I put 4.8 quarts of Mercon V Fluid (Basted and filled my Power Steering Fluid) from Napa and 24 Ounces of Lucas Oil Trans Fix. I did this all without a jack too! It was surprisingly simple to reach my cars drain plug from the front. My next thing will be to change my oil, which was last changed at 138,500 miles. This is the first one I am doing myself. I will be using 5W-20 Penzoil Platinum Full Synthetic and a Mobil-1 Extended Life Oil Filter.
 

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She should ride like new when you're done. I recently finished much of what you've done or are planning (struts all around, sway bar links, inner/outer tie rods, and lower ball joints) I am the original owner and my bull drives like day 1 when we picked her up in 2003.

If you have the Duratec you may want to look at replacing the coil pack if your'e diving in to get all new plugs. It sits on the rear of the engine and is easy to swap out while you're back there.
DOHC and Vulcan use the same coil pack. Fail happens. Best replace by 100K. I walked by Vulcans at the JY, all have cracked coil pack.
-chart-
 

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Did an oil change. I've kept up pre-winter maintenance so am not anticipating any problems now that ice and snow season has arrived.
Had my mechanic install the ABS moduleI found online. Anyone want to buy a used one to rebuild ? :) So nice to drive without a big red ABS light glaring at me.
 

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Did an oil change. I've kept up pre-winter maintenance so am not anticipating any problems now that ice and snow season has arrived.
Had my mechanic install the ABS moduleI found online. Anyone want to buy a used one to rebuild ? :) So nice to drive without a big red ABS light glaring at me.
Congrats on your fix. I did one. Likely the most tedious work I have done. No room to work in there.
-chart-
 

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Since moving back to the New England area, I’ve found car washes that you buy a subscription to. Starting at $20 per month it’s unlimited carwashes (with vacuums at no additional charge) and they give you the first two months for free. You can get all the bells and whistles for $35 per month. So, I washed the car today. I’ve been trying to figure out how to add an oil pressure sender unit to the Duratec. I don’t know why I didn’t think of using a sandwich plate before. I ordered that and a few fittings so that I can add the temperature transmission sending unit. It’s due for an oil change and I’ll have that done before the end of the year.


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Spend an hour going through the maintenance records and receipts for my two 2001s and my 2006. I junked the two 2001s due to body rot but not the 2006. Amazing all the stuff, nearly two inches of papers.
 

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Since moving back to the New England area, I’ve found car washes that you buy a subscription to. Starting at $20 per month it’s unlimited carwashes (with vacuums at no additional charge) and they give you the first two months for free. You can get all the bells and whistles for $35 per month. So, I washed the car today. I’ve been trying to figure out how to add an oil pressure sender unit to the Duratec. I don’t know why I didn’t think of using a sandwich plate before. I ordered that and a few fittings so that I can add the temperature transmission sending unit. It’s due for an oil change and I’ll have that done before the end of the year.


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Watch those car washes. My daughter had that for her Lexus ES350 and I think it was the cause of a few issues like frozen caliper slides, leaking moon roof and a hood latch that was sticking. Too frequent water in places it shouldn't be.
 

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Watch those car washes. My daughter had that for her Lexus ES350 and I think it was the cause of a few issues like frozen caliper slides, leaking moon roof and a hood latch that was sticking. Too frequent water in places it shouldn't be.
Our daughter took my Sable through the under body car wash. Soon strut bearing chattering. I replaced the struts. I took the bearing apart and it had water in it.
I only use "do it yourself" car wash wand and only when I am going to be driving long enough after to dry the brakes out.
-chart-
 

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I’ve been trying to figure out how to add an oil pressure sender unit to the Duratec. I don’t know why I didn’t think of using a sandwich plate before. I ordered that and a few fittings so that I can add the temperature transmission sending unit.


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Nope, didn't order the sandwich adapter. They got back to me and said they did not carry it after all. Anyone know where I might find a sandwich adapter for a 99 Duratec?
 

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Spark plug blew out the engine taking the coil plug with it on my 2000 Duratec.
2-3 hrs of research, a $20 14mm thread kit with insert, new plug, spare coil and some JB Weld for the coil socket and 1 hour of labor got it back up and running for $30 vs taking to a dealer and spending probably $5-700 to fix stripped out threads and broken coil.

297K miles, just 3K to go to reach my goal!!!
 

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I have had a lot of time on my hands and thus have had some time to research and then do things for my car.

2008 Ford Taurus SEL, currently about to hit 147,000 miles.
Used Penzoil Full Synthetic Platinum 5W-20 and a Mobil 1 209-A Extended Life oil filter. I could tell a CLEAR difference in how my car was running and idling with this. It really likes this oil. I had yet to have any way of jacking up my car and in the process tried to change the oil without doing that.... ended up rounding my oil drain plug. :/ Took it to valvoline with my parts and they changed my oil for $34.00. Also installed a new plug after much hardship removing the old rounded one.

Drain and filled my transmission three times over the period of a month to fully flush out the old fluid.By the third time at the end, fresh red fluid was coming out compared to the brown color the first time. It was a slow transition to more smooth shifts but man after the last one WOW.... it feels like I have a brand new transmission. No 1-2 harsh shift. I was so used to feeling each gear shift that I now have to look at my RPMS to check if it did. I used Napa Mercon V for the first one, Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic ATF for the second one and Mobil 1 Full Synthetic for this past one. I also used 24 ounces of Lucas Oil Trans Slip Fix for the last one with 3.5 quarts of Mobil 1. Honestly knowing I can drain and fill my transmission SO EASILY is going to allow me to really keep up with it.

I did a coolant flush for my car. It last had one at 106,000 miles in June 2018. The coolant was getting to be a little bit of a yellow-brown color. Took a good 2 hours of flushing it with distilled water with the heat on full blast. Put in Zerex G-05. Flushed out the system with distilled water. For the first 4 trips my coolant levels were going down each time. I was growing concerned my water pump was failing but a check of the weep holes and disptick showed nothing. The last two trips with the car the coolant has remained at the same level. Im thinking it was settling in to the cooling system. My operating temperature has gone down 5 degrees since adding according to ForScan.

So in short, Forrest the Taurus is in its best mechanical shape it has been since I bought the thing back in March 2018. Im pretty proud of the fact that at the mileage it is at, to have no DTCs whatsoever. I plan on keeping it with me for a long long time.
 

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Went to go move the 2010 this morning only for it not to respond to the remote at all. Opened the door with the key, nada.



I didn't even bother to try putting it on a charger. 10/16 manufacturing date, Duralast, was in the car when I bought it.




Decided to get serious with a real battery...$180 later. Parts house battery would have been $160, so for $20 more I got an extra 300CCAs and an additional year of warranty, plus the better prorating. Figured it was worth it for this case.



Darn thing fits, but man is it a big boy. Fills the tray and the cables are a hair snug to get on. Just did the '03s battery in mid 2018, so I should be good for a while.
 

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Decided to tackle the PCV valve and hose assembly on the '03 today.




I've seen worse, but I feel fine changing that.



Same part number but the new one is a bit longer. Doesn't seem to cause any issues.

Forgot to plug in the DPFE at the end, of course, but fixed that and it's behaving fine.

The hood struts, on the other hand, are shot for sure. The slightest breeze and it would start to come down, even after I told Holly I'd sell her for parts if she did that one more time (did it twice more). I'll put those on the list to get to in the spring.
 
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Swung wide on a left hand turn to avoid a driver on that side of the street who was creeping thru the red light.
Hit the curb and blew out the front passenger tire. AAA towed me to my shop who replaced the tire at no charge.
It was still under warranty and he called it a road hazard. Yayy !
 
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Damaged the cruise control cable when I had the intake off, it gave out when driving home last Monday.



Cable's been discontinued but there's still enough old stock.




At least it's an easy swap, about five minutes and no tools required.
 

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For my Bull today I made a for sale sign.

Haven't posted it in the car yet, but looking at another car. I figure I won't go too low from what I want. It's only got 129K miles with very good maintenance. The previous owner let some of the long term maintenance go so after I bought it I put on new rear shocks, front strut/spring assemblies, front ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, brake pads and rotors all around, cam bolt kit in the rear for alignment, 17x7.5 Mille Miglia wheels with 225/45-17 tires (cheap tires)(spare set of OEM 16x6.5 rims, no tires), polished the headlights, replaced the antenna with a shorty flexible one, and replaced the hood, rear glass, and hatch lift struts. I also added 5% tint to the rear door, cargo, and hatch glass, and removed the 3rd row seat, added a custom built subwoofer box and Kenwood sub, replaced the 4 speakers with very good Kenwood 6x9s, a 1000W (sub) and 250W (4 corners) Kenwood amps, and Bluetooth and direct 3.5 adapters (tint and audio done by pro shop). The shop also added a very strong cover with grille to cover the footwell / sub well. Everything works and the body is in great shape. It was a California car with no rust, and I haven't driven much in any salt here, getting it to the car wash within a day or two each time.

So - will take a look at the other one and decide if I'm going to get it, and if so, decide if I keep Blüe Longroof or send him on his way to his next assignment. If I do send Blüe on his way I have 4 months until registration expires so I won't deal with lowballers.
 

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"Whatever works". LED strip light at WM for just under $10. Some string, masking tape, and couple shower hooks and lights up very nice. Same light on the floor under the car makes nice light with no eye glare.
-chart-
 

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"Whatever works". LED strip light at WM for just under $10. Some string, masking tape, and couple shower hooks and lights up very nice. Same light on the floor under the car makes nice light with no eye glare.
-chart-
I used a strip light from Rural King for $10 and ordered heavy duty
IMG_0124.JPG
magnetic hooks from Amazon to hang it from the underside of the hood.
 

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Changed my PCV valve and elbow with MC parts. It was bad. Fixed my idle hunting. Elbow was soft and partly collapsed. At 117K the valve was worn out and not working at idle.
I bought the parts nearly a year ago but finally got a place to work. My own garage. No issues with the process, only loosing my tools that I had only a few minutes earlier. When Ford said, replace at 100K, they were not kidding. The new upgraded elbow will outlast the car.
-chart-
 

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