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Bought her a stable mate to run with. Now I need 2 of all the performance mods!
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Did an oil change yesterday with Castrol Edge 5w20 and a quart of Castrol Edge Euro 0w40 to thicken things up to prevent Duratec Drips. I got the 5w20 a few years ago for $1 a quart and have one more oil changes worth. After that, I will change to a high mileage 5w30.

A few months ago, I installed a mirror dashcam that records the front and back and also doubles as a rearview streaming and backup camera display. My daughter passed her driving test (first time with just one minor error) so this was "insurance" in case of accident. It turned out it is also a good way to review and improve her driving. The auto backup camera view is also helpful and the live streaming rear camera also has it's benefits once you get used to it since it has an unobstructed and much wider field of view. The mirror dashcam is wired to turn on and off with the car and the actual unit is hardly noticeable. Routing and hiding all the wiring was not difficult, nor was tapping into the reverse light wire, but I had to drill through the body behind the license plate for the rear camera cable.
 

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Took my last 2001 Taurus to the scrape yard today. 121k miles but pretty bad body rot in the rear passenger side. Recently popped a brake line and plugged it off to get it to the scrape yard. Bought the car for my daughter to do go to college nine years ago with 68k miles and $5k. Younger daughter used it also after she graduate college also. It was pretty trouble free but needed a new gas
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tank and two fuel pumps. Put the ice and snow tires on it for the trip to the yard and saved the brand new Michelin X tires (1500 miles) mounted to aluminum rims. sadly I had didn't time everything right on new parts but we just have too many cars for an empty house right now. Only have one last 2006 Taurus and it may be scrapped after next summer. More body rot on the driver side rear. Just hate to put time into a car that is dropping rust pieces in the driveway.

At least they are going to part the car out and it will help other people out there. I got $200 for it and got $140 for the other 2001 with 200k miles at a scrap metal dealer. I think they saw some value in the one with only 121k miles.
 

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Good luck on your repair. For all the work I have done on them I would not try a trans removal. I was tried of fixing my gold 2001 and it also followed the silver 2001 to the scrap yard. I have my 2006 left with 211k miles and it will go next summer on the same route. Too bad you are so far away because I have a good deal on a set of Michelin Defenders tires mounted with 1500 miles on them.
 

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Good luck on your repair. For all the work I have done on them I would not try a trans removal. I was tried of fixing my gold 2001 and it also followed the silver 2001 to the scrap yard. I have my 2006 left with 211k miles and it will go next summer on the same route. Too bad you are so far away because I have a good deal on a set of Michelin Defenders tires mounted with 1500 miles on them.
Thanks. I started digging into it and found some things I didn't like and decided to press the abort button. Doesn't make sense to do all this work to fix a small leak that only shows up when the car is hot when the rest of it is as tired as it is. The timing cover leak in particular is worse, one of the axle boots is torn and leaking grease, the suspension is tired, etc. I wanted to restore it to like new but even with my own labor I'm looking at another $1,000 easy which just doesn't make sense. I'll just drive it until something major fails and then that's all she wrote. The one thing it doesn't have is rust...but when you have a new vehicle to drive it's hard to justify so much putting work in.
 

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Changed that yesterday, meant to do it when I had the intake off, but it's not too hard to do on the 3.5 when you use the right tool.
 

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Thanks. I started digging into it and found some things I didn't like and decided to press the abort button. Doesn't make sense to do all this work to fix a small leak that only shows up when the car is hot when the rest of it is as tired as it is. The timing cover leak in particular is worse, one of the axle boots is torn and leaking grease, the suspension is tired, etc. I wanted to restore it to like new but even with my own labor I'm looking at another $1,000 easy which just doesn't make sense. I'll just drive it until something major fails and then that's all she wrote. The one thing it doesn't have is rust...but when you have a new vehicle to drive it's hard to justify so much putting work in.
I know how you feel. I made a little tray on my gold 2001 to catch trans fluid but it was only on cold start up below 10 degrees. I fastened to a starter bolt and a trans pan bolt. No drips in driveway for six years.
 

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...Too bad you are so far away because I have a good deal on a set of Michelin Defenders tires mounted with 1500 miles on them.
What are they mounted on, what size, and what are you seeking to get for them?

I think I’m too far away but I’ve been known to road trip for the right stuff.



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Just put a shift kit in the A4XN, and I am sure it will easily handle the 12,000 Hp :)
 

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Spent the day replacing the rear struts on my 03 @ 107,010 miles (its been a daily driver for short commutes most all her life). You guys weren't kidding about the PITA pinch bolts. Took my time and didn't break them off but I did replace them with new bolts all the same. Same basic process that everyone should follow. Soak, heat, air impact gun, repeat (about a dozen or more times for each). To not ignite the penetrating oil I opted to use my paint stripper/heat gun instead of a torch. Job took extra long as I took the time to scrap away what rust I could from the upper assembly mount area of the under-body before spraying it with rust converter and finally with a good coat of rubberized undercoating. This was the first rear strut change and I don't plan on ever changing those again. Bought fronts to do but may take it to a mechanic friend who has a lift and more tools. This should be the final large work on the old girl as long as the transmission holds out. Still runs like a champ and the interior is still in great shape. Hoping this car becomes my kids first car in a few years.
 

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Spent the day replacing the rear struts on my 03 . . . . Bought fronts to do but may take it to a mechanic friend who has a lift and more tools.
For the front did you just get struts or did you opt for the full assembly - strut, spring, etc? I needed new struts for the front of my 99 wagon (and rear shocks). My mechanic told me that the additional cost of the assembly would more than be covered by the reduction in labor, plus I'd have new springs. I actually found them on Amazon for a fantastic price and they had Prime shipping available. No compressing the springs to remove and replace. Super easy to remove the old and install the new.

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For the front did you just get struts or did you opt for the full assembly - strut, spring, etc? I needed new struts for the front of my 99 wagon (and rear shocks). My mechanic told me that the additional cost of the assembly would more than be covered by the reduction in labor, plus I'd have new springs. I actually found them on Amazon for a fantastic price and they had Prime shipping available. No compressing the springs to remove and replace. Super easy to remove the old and install the new.
Yes, I went assembly all the way. I've actually had really good luck with parts from Detroit Axle on eBay. Price is the same or better than Amazon. Unfortunately the fronts aren't as simple as the rears were (even with that pinch bolt). Appreciate the encouragement though!
 
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