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Been using a Warren 5w-20 semi synthetic in the 2008 winter beater that has 85,000 miles on it. Was thinking about switching to Wally Supertech full synthetic 5w-20 when I do an oil change this weekend. Good idea or it just doesn't matter??????
 

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Friend of mine works at a place that makes specialty chemicals and tests oil brands for the big companies.

I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum with either a K&N filter or a Mobil 1 filter.
 

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I have used cheap 5w-20 oil from Rural King, Walmart and some big box stores and all my Taurus have made at least 200k miles and up to 250k miles before the body rotted away.
 

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Been using a Warren 5w-20 semi synthetic in the 2008 winter beater that has 85,000 miles on it. Was thinking about switching to Wally Supertech full synthetic 5w-20 when I do an oil change this weekend. Good idea or it just doesn't matter??????
Imo what you use doesn't matter as long as you change it at the correct interval. I like to use synthetics because I can put off oil changes longer. But since these engines don't have super close tolerances like modern ones and don't have variable valve timing, just pick whatever fits your budget and don't worry about it.
 

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I use CarQuest (Valvoline OE, i believe) Full Synthetic 5W-20 and a Purolator Boss Filter - usually costs me $35 or so for each change - and I usually change every 5000 miles.
 

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Been using a Warren 5w-20 semi synthetic in the 2008 winter beater that has 85,000 miles on it. Was thinking about switching to Wally Supertech full synthetic 5w-20 when I do an oil change this weekend. Good idea or it just doesn't matter??????
Full synthetic oil offer the highest levels of performance. Read here they are an essential requirement for many modern engines
Full synthetic oil is better. It may benefit from upgrading to fully synthetic for increased protection and performance..
 

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Quaker State Ultimate full synthetic, Mobil 1 or other Mobil full synthetic , even Wally Mart Super syn. @ 16 bucks a 5qt. jug. If I can get a Warren Distribution Full Synthetic too, any brand name , at a good price that's good too & what I'll use also. I recently bought Havoline w/deposit shield F/S 5qt. jugs at a clearance price. I always get the ones that are "Dexos" approved, because even if our vehicles from Ford technically don't need that spec, its a more stringent spec than oils that don't meet it. & currently I just use the newer designation that meets "Dexos Gen II" SP+ approved oil, because it has an additive package that helps limit low speed deposit formation & is turbo approved. I stick to the recommended 5W20 , but some say 5W 30 viscosity will be OK in these N/A Cyclones too. The SHO recommends 5W30, does it not?


I change my oil at usually 50% left on the oil life indicator , which is usually between 4-6 month intervals , & usually well less than 5K miles accumulated on the odometer at that point in time. Sometimes I just change it at 3K miles , if its a ridiculously hot summer down here, regardless of what the O/L monitor indicates. Just like I did, when I lived in the "Polar Vortex Zone" in the lower Lake Michigan artic tundra waste land region. It regularly got 20 below 0 F or less , for 10 or more days up there, & was virtually the ONLY area in the world that wasn't experiencing the Global Warming phenomenon , or what they say is GW. That area got colder over the past few decades! Sooner than normal oil changes in the extreme cold is recommended, because oil that has volatility burn off, can increase in viscosity , especially non Synthetics.
 

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Valvoline filter + Synthetic MaxLife 5W20. ~6-7k intervals or at least twice a year summer/winter (I don't drive that much).
 
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