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Discussion Starter #1
Vehicle is a 2002 Ford Taurus SE, with the Vulcan Engine

Recently, the driver's side of the engine bay has been squeaking. Haven't been able to locate the source though. Initially, it would squeak only when cold, but now does it cold start and after being warmed up.

The squeak occurs when moving and at a standstill. However, it does change with acceleration.

First thought is transmission, but no slips, codes, and the fluid is fairly new and pink (no burnt smell). Beyond that, the next thing is something rattling.

Any ideas as to where to start looking?

Thanks.
 

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Cam position synchronizer. Very common issue. Sounds like a belt or a bird chirping.

Stay away from the "Dorman" made one. Get a Motorcraft one. (This is from a bad experience)
 

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Just a FYI, you only need the camshaft synchronizer, not the cam sensor itself. There is a "special tool" for this job. x2 on the OEM part, no aftermarket!
 

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OK, thanks. What's the average price for the Cam Synchronizer? What are the consequences if it is not fixed?

Off to look for instruction....
 

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Does anyone have a permanent, stable link to the CPS step-by-step guides? I'm finding mostly dead links that lead me back to the homepage.

Thanks!
 

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Here are a couple links I have bookmarked for when I change mine out:

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=32049 (really like the pic in this link showing how to mark the old synchronizer to avoid using the "special" tool)

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=36688

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=54809

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=53152

I haven't checked into parts sources yet in Alberta. As you will find in the threads listed above, don't buy Dorman.

Hope that helps.
 

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When I cold start my bull, I also get a squealing sound, and it goes away after few minutes. I was thinking that the serpentine belt is acting up because of cold.

Is it the Cam position sensor / synchronizer ?

If I keep running the car like this, without fixing it, can this cause any harm ?
 

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OK, thanks. What's the average price for the Cam Synchronizer? What are the consequences if it is not fixed?

Off to look for instruction....
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It will not leave you on the side of the road, it will just get annoying. I have the same problem with my bull and called ford about a part. It was $144 for the Motorcraft or $70 somthing for the Dorman. You could maybe find one at a junkyard from a wrecked car with low mileage but stay away from Dorman!!!!!!
 

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Where do you get the A1 Cardone synchro at?
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I think it's the same Dorman unit that fails, just packaged and sold under the Cardone name, I would stick with Motorcraft or a Napa unit, you get what you pay for. No made in China b/s for my bull, save it for Walmart
 

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Agreed. This is one part that is worth paying extra for from Ford to save you the aggravation of getting a poorly made part.
 

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TCCA members, correct me if I'm wrong, but I have read pretty much every post out there regarding this issue. Now reading through this one, there are still some misconceptions about the Camshaft Position Sensor or also know as Crank Angle Sensor. I have read up on these because I have rolled over 130,000 miles and have heard horror stories how these parts are notorious for failing at the 75K 100K 150K marks and anywhere in between. To date, I have not heard the chirp but... you never know (knock on wood).

The CPS or CAS is used for 2 things. Timing for the engine and driving the oil pump. If it goes (notorious belt squeak coming from drivers side/rear side of Vulcan engine) you can have oil pump failure. This of course would be bad because, well oil as we all know lubricates your engine parts.

You do NOT need the alignment tool to do this job. Many of the posts show to mark very carefully (and probably OVER MARK) where the old CPS/CAS used to sit. Again, because there is a specific way that this part fits in with the timing of the engine, if you are off (by 10, 20, etc degrees) when you crank over the engine, the engine will sound and feel rough.

I have read posts on here that people have gone several hundred miles (~200 miles) after installing and running rough with no immediately noticeable damaging affects. So this is something that you can do, start up and try out yourself.

Some gotchas from my recollection of the reading.

[] The wire bundle covers the CPS/CAS and is a PITA to work around
[] Dealers will charge $100 or more for the part and upwards of $300-400 for installation. This is usually a $200-600 job depending on where you are and if the mechanic feels like bending you over.
[] The Dormans have been shown to wear out very quickly. A-1 Cardone (NAPA) parts are the way to go.

Lastly, this is something I have yet to figure out. RockAuto sells 2 types. One with a Step-on plug and one without the Step-on plug.
Does anyone know the difference???

Hope this helps you with your endeavors! :salute:
 

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I think it's the same Dorman unit that fails, just packaged and sold under the Cardone name, I would stick with Motorcraft or a Napa unit, you get what you pay for. No made in China b/s for my bull, save it for Walmart
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I read a post on a thread with the same issue where someone said that the cardones were the rebuilt motorcraft part with the serial numbers ground off.
 

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Crank Angle sensor is different that the Camshaft Position sensor. Crank sensor is just as it says, located down at the CRANKSHAFT, same for the Cam sensor, it's located at the top, where the Distributor used to be. I mean honestly, how are you going to get a CRANK reference from a sensor that's NOWHERE near the crank?? Also, on Tauruses and Sables from 1996, the TIMING is computer controlled, it IS NOT controlled by the CAM sensor. Injector pulse however, IS. At least that's what I was taught, so please, someone correct me if I"M wrong.
 

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That is correct. I just installed a Cardone unit and it was exactly what you said - a rebuilt Motorcraft part with the serial numbers ground off. I compared it to a Dorman model and there was significantly less play in the Cardone shaft...the Dorman unit even looked cheaply made. Just do yourself a favor and avoid the Dorman cam sync.
 

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Craddosk,

I stopped by the dealership in Lethbridge, and the Ford part is $60 for the sensor and $200 for the synchronizer. I will check Parts stores next.
 

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Man, you guys need a wholesaler in your area. I just bought both parts in Motorcraft, for $106. And I don't understand how you can say it's hard, it only took me half an hour, granted I thought it would be harder.

Remove the TB cover, the cables from the TB linkage, "pop" the top cover of the harness bundle up and open. There are usually two peices of black tape. Cut the tape.
Take a 12 to 14" pry-bar set it under the bottom plastic harness housing resting the end of the bar on the rear most intake bolt.
Pry up, and zip tie the bar to the throttle linkage.
Unplug the sensor.
Remove the 2 5.5mm sensor bolts and the 10mm hold down, and pull off the SENSOR.
Take a marker or scribe and mark the position of both the inner vane and the synchro housing.
Pull the synchro housing out and clean the intake mounting surface.

Install is reverse of removal.
 
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