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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2000 taurus with the DOHC v6 has the same problem that it did as last winter. Last winter I was lucky enough to have fixed the problem myself . The problem has started again with the weather changing here in South West PA.

Here is the situation this year first. We had a warm day in the 60's on a Monday. The next day it rained all day and the weather started cooling. On the Wednesday it turned very cold. Hi temps in the upper 20's Now the car cranks but wont fire up.

Last year basically the same situation. Warm weather then very cold weather within a few days. Last year the car sat in my driveway for the month of Jan. because it would crank but not fire up. On a slight warmup in the weather the car fired up briefly but stalled and threw up a check engine code. I have a scanner and, I cant rememeber the DTC now but it was for the fuel pump driver module. So I removed the old one and in area where it is mounted the whole area was saturated in condensation. So I wiped the area dry . I ordered the fuel pump driver module, got it and put it in. The car fired up and ran. The engine light did not coome back on. I ran the car for about a week and then the same weather conditions happened again and the same problem too. But the check engine light did not come on.

So I tried dry gas, and filling the tank up ( which I did not really want to do in case it was the fuel pump).

So, I pulled the back seat and checked the driver module. The module and surrounding area was saturated in condensation again. I took out the module and popped the black cover from it and put both in the back window area to dry out in the sun. In the meantime I mounted some thin insulation around the inner back fender to try form a moisture barrier somehow. I put the dryed out module back in, it fired up and didn't have a problem for 8 months until the recent situation stated above.

Now back to current events:

So now there was just a little condensation on the module this time and on the bare metal frame behind the back seat, which i did not have insulated because the driver module has a heat sink that faces the back seat metal frame. I pulled the module again and dryed it out again. Put it back and car wont start. No check engine codes. So I say OK I'll get a new driver module again and give it a try. Got the new one put it in and the car wont fire up. I know I was gamling since there were no engine codes but last year it was the same situation.

I honestly just dont want to yet have it towed to the Ford dealer. I think once the weather gets warm again it will fire up, but who knows?

I also tried the reset button for the fuel pump it the trunk. The button was not popped up and nothing happened when I pushed it.

I checked to make sure the area wasnt getting water in from leaks. Its just condensation. Also the car ran all year and rain was no problem.

I'm thinking it could be the wiring in the back area all the way to the fuel pump shorting out because of moisture, the fuel pump itself, or the inertia reset button, or maybe the new module from the dealer is faulty. But I feel it is all condesation related now. Maybe it is the fuel pump dying.

Has anyone here have any ideas or experiences such as this? The car has about 85,000 miles on it. I like it, it looks new and when it runs, its just a great car.
 

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I would start checking for pump voltage at the highest point in the harness and then work your way down until you find the problem area. My big concern is the location of water entry into that module area. Unfortunately chasing water leaks can be a futile waste of hours, sometimes it's just easier to relocate a component to a better spot (trunk maybe?) even if it means some splicing and soldering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply....

When you say highest point in the harness you mean the the fuel system wiring in the trunk area to check for a short from the pump to the wiring leading to the front of the car? I have a multimeter, an electrical probe tester and a Haynes manual that has a fuel system section with electrical tests that can be done, so I have hopefully what I need to test the wiring out, except for the patience to inspect the wiring since most of it is covered with a cable protector and tape. Although I have never done it before I can prob figure how to go about it. Right now I have more time than money, but the weather here right now is in the teens.

In my first post I forgot to mention last and this year I checked the fuel pump relay and fuse thats under the hood too.

I too have thought about cutting and lengthing the wires near the driver module connector to install it in the trunk, vs between the back seat and trunk, the interior of the trunk itself is always dry....
For what its worth too, I have owned this car for 7 years and only for the last 2 years this has been a problem

Again thanks for the reply
 

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can you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the ignition to 'on' (not start - just turn the key one click forward)?

If not, then your fuel pump is ka-put
 
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