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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
01 Vulcan 168K mi. 9 month old Advance Auto Battery, 5 month old new Pep Boys Alternator - both check out O.K. Weak crank when starting engine, no unusual noises, starter appears O.K., all other functions are fine. Battery cable to starter possible culprit?
 

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01 Vulcan 168K mi. 9 month old Advance Auto Battery, 5 month old new Pep Boys Alternator - both check out O.K. Weak crank when starting engine, no unusual noises, starter appears O.K., all other functions are fine. Battery cable to starter possible culprit?
Yes, terminal clamps and the cable strands themselves are worth inspecting. Does the pan gasket leak? I see a lot of Vulcan engines that destroy their starters due to all the oil flowing over and into them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The Solenoid appears to be replaceable (looks like two screws). Advance Auto & Pep Boys in my area (Central Florida) both do not carry it. Any ideas?
 

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My one year old battery tested OK, down a few CCA's but well above what is required. Cranked slow so I just went in and redeemed it for a new one and it almost knocks me over with the crank speed.
Actions speak louder than tests.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Still struggling here. Cables/clamps good. No leaks, pan gasket tight. Two separate shops used their Battery/Alternator/Starter scan-type tool - all three check O.K. Can this portable Electronic System Check Tool actually fully diagnose the starter? I still have frequent (but not always) slow crank, sometimes she barely starts, no odd noises. Everything electrical runs fine however. All suggestions welcome.
 

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I was having the exact same problems, now it seems to be showing symptoms fuel related. I smelled gas when i got out of the car and pulled the cap off the fuel tank and it released a lot of pressure. Has anything happened like this to you. Seems to only happen when i go on 30 min or longer drives.
 

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I was having the exact same problems, now it seems to be showing symptoms fuel related. I smelled gas when i got out of the car and pulled the cap off the fuel tank and it released a lot of pressure. Has anything happened like this to you. Seems to only happen when i go on 30 min or longer drives.
If you are still having this problem, most likely its the tank not venting.
 

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Have the battery load tested, my bet will be that it will fail but have proper 'cold' voltage
 

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Starters do often crank slower when they start to go bad. Have you checked the cables for corrosion that possibly runs underneath the insulation. I had to replace my ground cable for that reason.
 

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If it's the original starter, at 168K miles, could very likely be worn brushes. Insufficient contact with commutator due to excessive wear means current delivered to armature is impaired.
 

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Add on

If it's the original starter, at 168K miles, could very likely be worn brushes. Insufficient contact with commutator due to excessive wear means current delivered to armature is impaired.
Most if not all use 2 pair of brushes. One of the pair gets worn to no contact, and you have half power. I have had it happen. Now you are on borrowed time.

-chart-
 

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^^^^ +1
 

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yeah its the starter my dad just replaced mines this morning

it went dead in a parking lot yesterday battery was low so i just bought a new one and still wouldnt crank so found out it was the starter when when took it to a place to get it tested.

when it cranks weak and after u checked ur battery it means its going out and needs to be replaced

its not a hard fix my dad took it off and put it on in like 30 min
 
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