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Discussion Starter #1
TCCA,
recently had some work done to the Bull. My radiator had a small leak, that when under pressure lost all of the coolant. The radiator was fixed and I was in need of a Transmission Full fluid exchange + filter exchange (from my lessons here I requested that the engine & transmission pump be used so as to not hurt the tranny - thanks).

My question is this. When my mechanic replaced the radiator a system flush was done. The heater core was also back flushed b/c I have not been receiving hot air into the cabin. This flush and backflush was done about this time last year (so this makes 2x in one year). The coolant did stay pretty green for the year (with some rust on the overflow resevior--but not that much).

The car has 113K miles on it and I have had it since 63K. Since then I know that the Water pump has not been replaced (do not know if it was done before hand, but doubt it). The same goes for the Heater Core.

I DO NOT smell anything sweet when the heater is on (as to suggest that the core is leaking). However, I do believe that it may be blocked up so bad that the backflush did not work all that well this time.

Here is the question(s): Should I have the Water Pump replace along with the Heater Core to prevent any major damage?

What are the signs of the Water pump going? Are there any sqeeking sounds?

I ask b/c the air coming out is not at all that warm. I do live in Florida and as I understand it if the heater system is not used all that much (which is typical) it gets easily clogged.

I would figure with the coolant system being flushed as much as it has been recently, that most of the rust debris that I had a year plus would have been cleaned out. I'm just wondering if the fins have been eroded away in the WP?

The system operates at NORMAL and the Thermostat was replaced when this work was done recently.

Thanks in advance. I am one of those owners that does the 'preventative' maintance so as to not suffer the major blowouts that I dred.
 

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Well my father has a 1999 Taurs with about 36,000 miles he's 86 yrs.old and doesn't drive much. Anyway this past March I changed the oil in his car and was looking at the coolant tank and noticed it was brown. The coolant was BROWN I thought there was oil mixed in but there wasn't thank goodness.I flushed the system and it seemed to be okay. Just today as a matter of fact I looked at the coolant and it was still greenish,but there was some Brownish paste above the level of the coolant.I don't know what the hell it was something from the moisture inside the coolant tank I'm going to have to keep an eye on it.I'm not a big fan of the 3.0L VULCAN motor it's a great motor,but I'm very happy with the 3.0L Duratec motor one of the best motors Ford has put out.So I hope someone knows what the brownish paste is or what the brown coolant means. :ford:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I do understand if the coolant is brown and 'sludgy' that it could be from the whole TSB electrolosis (sp?) but the Vulcan is an Iron block and Iron will rust no matter how much rust-protectant you run through.

Either way, this is not my problem (TSB/sludgy coolant). My coolant is green now (and was for the year after the flush). I'm still wondering about symptoms of the Water Pump fins being erroded away and Heater Core plugging.

As I said above, I do not believe the HC is leaking b/c I do not smell the sweet smell, but think that the blockage is strong enough not to have come loose when the mechanic tried it last week.
 

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When my water pump was bad, the car would get super hot at idle. Once I stepped on the gas, my heat gauge would go to the "c". I found my impeller to be totally rotted away. I flushed the coolant and changed the t-stat with a Ford unit (weep hole) and it worked great for a DAY. My car's temp gauge is now all over the spectrum while driving down the highway. All I can think of is that I have crap circulating around the system. My coolant browned up in 500 miles and I even changed the thermostat again. No help. bottom line, leave the stuff alone if it is working. I've been fighting cooling system problems ever since I flushed the radiator. My heat is hot, and frankly if I overheat and kill my POS Sable, I could care less. My flush cost me a water pump, 2 t-stats, and now it runs hotter and crappier than before.
 

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Get your car up to operting temp.

Grab the hoses going into the heater core.

They both should be warm but one should be a little warmer than the other because you are disapating the heat with the heater core.


If one is hot and one is cold , you have blockage.

If you have blockage pull them both off and shove a garden hose in there.


You have over 113K on the water pump so I would replace it just on general principle.

About 30 bucks and an hour of your time.

Mike
B)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
mwt,
In an attempt to answer your question, yesterday after I had driven the car for 15 mins (optimal running temp) I put the car in Park and left the heat blowing (cool air in the cabin) on high. When I went under the hood to feel the two hoses which I followed from the top of the water pump to the firewall they both seemed rather cool for what I was expecting.

I compared them to the hoses that were going into the resevior tank and the one coming from the water pump itself. I could barely hold on to those for more than a few seconds before it burned. However, both hoses going in to the firewall I could hold a finger on for... oh I'd say 6 or 7 seconds. I could have held on longer but the engine block was starting to heat away some arm hair.

I do notice (and believe) that I have recognized the heater core bypass hose that was part of the Ford TSB. I was unable (kind of forgot) to feel that to see how hot that hose was.

Also, it is impossible to R & R the water pump without draining the coolant system, is that correct? I probably should have had that part replaced when the radiator and system was just recently repaired. Would have saved me the trouble of draining it off AGAIN and flushing the system AGAIN.
 

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As I feel I am now having this same problem, where do I locate the HC hoses to check this? I went to Staples tonight and noticed the heat was not hot, but barely warm. I drove it around a while to see if it opened up or not, but nothing. I have the original HC and WP, both with over 150K on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The heater hoses are behind the engine and go into the firwall. There may be a 'bypass' hose that connects the two. They are relativly parallel, almost on the same horizantal axis... but one is slightly (like .5") higher than the other.

The tough thing is when your engine is at 'NORMAL' temp getting your hand back behind the engine to feel the hoses is tough.. without burning your arm that is.

feel both hoses with the HEAT on HIGH and engine running. If one is hot and one is cool your HC is blocked. Usually a reverse flush (aka backflush) of the heater core will remove the debris. However, I am running into the problem where the backflushing isn't removing the debris all that well. It's an expensive job to have the HC R&R.

Has anyone here at the TCCA ever used CLR when backflushing to help break up the blockage?

If so (or if you have used anything else other than water + hose) please respond and let me know.

Thanks!
 

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It should be a job you can do yourself.

Take a look at this.

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?...st&p=487874

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?...;hl=heater+core

The shortcut is for gen3.. Not sure if you can do the shortcut for the gen4. If you can't, expect a full day job.
See what others say.

When you flushed, did you pinch the bypass line on the heater hoses so you force the flush through the core?
My guess would be it is probably just clogged with sludge. Not sure if disconnecting the heater core lines and flushing direct would do anything. Just have to watch your pressure. :dunno:
 

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When my water pump was bad, the car would get super hot at idle. Once I stepped on the gas, my heat gauge would go to the "c". I found my impeller to be totally rotted away. I flushed the coolant and changed the t-stat with a Ford unit (weep hole) and it worked great for a DAY. My car's temp gauge is now all over the spectrum while driving down the highway. All I can think of is that I have crap circulating around the system. My coolant browned up in 500 miles and I even changed the thermostat again. No help. bottom line, leave the stuff alone if it is working. I've been fighting cooling system problems ever since I flushed the radiator. My heat is hot, and frankly if I overheat and kill my POS Sable, I could care less. My flush cost me a water pump, 2 t-stats, and now it runs hotter and crappier than before.
Ditto...if it "ain't broke - don't fix it!" Fine until coolant flush. Now, host of repairs.
 
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