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Discussion Starter #1
I figured if Ford is eventually going to have a class action lawsuit against them, all of these cases need to be documented somehow. So here goes!

2013 Ford Taurus
100,0XX miles
3.5L Duratec
FWD

This car has been meticulously maintained. First the throttle body assembly went out, then the engine had a bad MAF sensor and "extreme carbon buildup," and had to be cleaned out. All of this has happened in less than a year, and now the water pump. I watch the temp gauge diligently, always have, always will. Coolant gets checked about once a month, along with the oil. Car gets Amsoil every time. I have never seen any coolant loss or smelled any coolant loss. Temps always stay the same while driving, never any spikes. Also, I use a WiFi OBD reader hooked up to ForScan to check codes. Car has had no CELs or codes lately, no coolant loss.

As I drove from Fort Myers to Delray Beach (150 miles), the car crossed the magical 100,000 mile mark. Again, coolant levels were good before I left. I pull into my parking spot behind my office, sat for a few minutes listening to some songs, and I see the temp gauge start climbing. Next thing was the high temp warning. I immediately shutoff the car, got out, and saw coolant pissing out like a race horse. Once it cooled off, I started investigating, but the engine bay is too tight to see anything, so I took it to my mechanic about a 1/2 mile away. Sure enough, I caught it at the right time. Water/coolant just started getting into the oil, so motor has to be torn down (so they say). He spoke with a Ford Tech of over 30 years, and he said the same thing. So here's the problem I have with all of this, and why I think a class action lawsuit needs to be in place. I have read through some forums of other people with the same motors having the same issue, anywhere from 60K miles to over 100K miles. Water pumps are water pumps. Yes, they go bad just like other parts on other vehicles; however, this is a horrible design, and there were NO warning signs until the coolant came out while parked. At that rate, there should have been a trail of coolant leading into the parking lot, and there was none. A $60 water pump should not cause $2000-$7000 worth of damage to an engine, because the design forces water/coolant to mix with oil inside the crankcase.

Now, on the other side of my post, if anyone wants to give some insight on how to do this job at home, that would be wonderful. I know there are some posts on here, and some YouTube videos (which I have started watching and reading), but if anyone has any tips or tricks, special tool suggestions, etc., that would be awesome!

My biggest question is, can this be done WITHOUT jacking up or lowering the engine? Can it be left inside the car while this is done? I know it's tight...

Thank you in advance!
 

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take about 14 to 16 hr to repair in your driveway.you need a cam holder tool(ebay) balancer remover tool(autozone)cut a 5/16 x4 bolt cut the head off you need this too remove the balancer (the pin in the kit not long enough).best you a impact gun too get the balancer bolt off,if not you have to make a tool too hold balancer locked to remove bolt.the rest is just remove upper intake,both head cover,motor mounts(pass side),belt,front cover,then you see the water pump looking at you.

i done this to my car at 88000 mile





http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/115-5th-6th-gen-engine-drivetrain/253922-my-13-bull-has-leaky-water-pump.html
 

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I am hearing a lot of Bulls having water pump issues and now I am a little worried......I really hope you can get it sorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. Sorry for the late reply. Car has been down for over 2 weeks now. Could not get all the right parts, as they were all on back order, but got lucky on a few. Water pump got put back together, no leaks, everything checks out... EXCEPT now cylinders 3 and 6 are misfiring. Getting P0203 and P0206 codes. Replaced the spark plugs along with pump at same time. Put old ones back in, no change. PCM?
 

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Glad water pump is fixed, did you have to jack engine around? No clue on misfires, I would double check plugs, wiring, and coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Glad water pump is fixed, did you have to jack engine around? No clue on misfires, I would double check plugs, wiring, and coil.
Yes, had to undo the engine mount and jack it up from underneath on the pan. Pulled the new plugs out and put the old back in, codes stayed and same misfires. Injectors are not getting a pulse.
 

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Local dealership quoted me $770 all in to replace and fit a new water pump. I think I may get it booked in, in a few weeks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Local dealership quoted me $770 all in to replace and fit a new water pump. I think I may get it booked in, in a few weeks
Wow, that?s cheap! Especially for a dealership. Well, the water pump and everything works, but the whole misfires and injectors not working was killer. Come to find out, 4 wires in the harness coming from the PCM had been smashed/cut. Those controlled injectors 3 and 6. $270 later with an auto electrician and she?s up and running again.

NOW the AC doesn?t work hahahahahaha! I think the blend door is stuck to the hot side. Gotta figure out how to check that now.
 

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Wow, that?s cheap! Especially for a dealership. Well, the water pump and everything works, but the whole misfires and injectors not working was killer. Come to find out, 4 wires in the harness coming from the PCM had been smashed/cut. Those controlled injectors 3 and 6. $270 later with an auto electrician and she?s up and running again.

NOW the AC doesn?t work hahahahahaha! I think the blend door is stuck to the hot side. Gotta figure out how to check that now.
If the blend door is at fault, that's a common failure (not unique to Taurus, even) and an easy replacement, thankfully. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If the blend door is at fault, that's a common failure (not unique to Taurus, even) and an easy replacement, thankfully. Good luck.
The blend door is behind the glove box, correct?

Wow didn't expect a banged up wiring harness?! How'd do you think that happened? Glad you're up and running!
Thanks! I have my suspicions, but no one wants to own up to it, yet. Filled up the tank last night and the car didn't want to start at first, then stumbled like it was misfiring and cleared out. I'm hoping that was a fluke.
 

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Looking at the factory manuals, it looks like there are 2 "temperature blend doors", a left hand (LH), and right hand side (RH).
LH is to the left underneath the steering column, the right is behind the glove box. If you remove the actuators, they need to be reinitialized and calibrated. Remove Smart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 15 for at least 1 minute. Reinstall fuse. Put car to ON position. HVAC module should calibrate within 30 seconds. Goodluck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looking at the factory manuals, it looks like there are 2 "temperature blend doors", a left hand (LH), and right hand side (RH).
LH is to the left underneath the steering column, the right is behind the glove box. If you remove the actuators, they need to be reinitialized and calibrated. Remove Smart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 15 for at least 1 minute. Reinstall fuse. Put car to ON position. HVAC module should calibrate within 30 seconds. Goodluck.

Big help, thank you! I will give this a shot. It blows hot on both sides, would that tell you something? It could easily be the freon is low. Just weird that this came on after the repairs.
 

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I'm not sure, I will research it more for fun, I enjoy trying to learn. I would imagine that it should default to "hot". Maybe blender door is stuck open? I just got this car so I haven't taken glovebox door off, but looks easy, just top tabs pull together. Changing the temperature setting, you should see that actuator move. I actually got a new cabin filter so I'll try this soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I pulled it off last night and played around with the passenger side. Cabin filter is right there. It's very easy to do. The actuator and the blend door move. I even disconnected the actuator and manually moved the blend door thinking that would work, but it still blew hot air. And thank you, I appreciate you looking into it, as well. I've been researching it myself, so 2 heads is better than 1!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So come to find out that the compressor is bad! This car is really something... While we're at it, does anyone know why the Climate Controls will not switch between Vent, Defrost, Floor, Mix, etc? It stays stuck on Vent. You press any of the others, there's a change in air flow velocity, but nothing will come out of any other except Vents. Lights and Screen will say it's on Defrost, for example, but will be stuck on Vent.
 

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On my 2008 Crown Victoria the factory default is Defrost. So if there is a vacuum leak - you get Defrost. If the electronic control module goofs up - you get Defrost. If whatever isn't perfect or shes in a bad mood - you get Defrost.
 

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On my 2008 Crown Victoria the factory default is Defrost. So if there is a vacuum leak - you get Defrost. If the electronic control module goofs up - you get Defrost. If whatever isn't perfect or shes in a bad mood - you get Defrost.
That's what I thought too, but it's stuck on Vent. Just had a guy look at the AC system. Said there are no leaks, but the vanes inside the compressor are not allowing freon to be sucked into the system. Time to replace! BTW, LKQ on eBay has some very low mileage/low price OEM compressors. Just bought one with 2K miles for $73.
 

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That's what I thought too, but it's stuck on Vent. Just had a guy look at the AC system. Said there are no leaks, but the vanes inside the compressor are not allowing freon to be sucked into the system. Time to replace! BTW, LKQ on eBay has some very low mileage/low price OEM compressors. Just bought one with 2K miles for $73.
It sounds like you've been through a bit of a nightmare here. Can you give us an update? I'd like to know the final outcome on all of this.
 
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