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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2000 Vulcan replacing water pump. Fine until very last bolt on water pump, smaller bolt diameter on lower half, snapped head of bolt off. Did not feel right but unable to loosen. Corroded or maybe last person cross threaded? Have about 1/2 inch of threads to work with after water pump removed Tried to grab with Vise Grips and remove but just seem to slipping. Now soaked with Liquid Wrench. Considered heat but close to the connector for the crankshaft position sensor.

Scott
 

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Have you tried some heat after removing the crankshaft sensor? Welding a nut to the stud can help you remove what is left of the bolt. This happened to me on my '76 Mercury Bobcat with the V6 engine. Had to remove the radiator so I could drill the bolt out and retap the threads, I did not have a welder back then. Another way is to use a Dremel with a carbide cutter to cut the bolt out and retap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am trying heat tomorrow, moved the crankshaft sensor, lucky to get it off, a couple of people have broken it during removal. If I cannot remove the stub from this bolt will just do the timing cover which it probably needs anyway. Read extensively on this website as well as YouTube, in particular FordTech M. Questions I still have. I seem to have an exhaust shield on the rear of the timing cover, two fasteners to remove, not mentioned by FordTech. He states it is not necessary to remove the power steering pump to remove timing cover. He also states the water pump can be left on and the timing cover and water pump can be removed together. Others dispute this. Can any RTV be used on the crankshaft keyway? Are there any steps I can take at this time to prevent this problem? Have read it is the iron block and aluminum cover which causes corrosion and pitting. I am hunting for a diagram of the timing cover bolts which need to be removed, all water pump bolts now off with exception of the snapped shaft, lower, smaller diameter. Water pump is off as well. Know there are two bolts which fasten through oil pan into the timing cover. Thanks for any suggestions. Did not need that last 8mm fastener to snap.

Scott
 

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Maybe you can grind two flat surfaces on the bolt (say with a Dremel) so you can grab it with an adjustable wrench.
 

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Since the waterpump is off, I would recommend you heat the area on the timing cover where the snapped bolt enters. You need to expand the hole and squirt with penetrating oil. Also actually tighten the stud first after you tap it a few times with a hammer. Then try to loosen it. The two dissimilar metals will corrode and almost fuse together.

All bolts need to be removed on the cover even those two in the oil pan. I
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I used a enlarged picture on a cardboard box to keep track of the positions of the different bolts. I punched holes in the box with a pencil. I used any type of RTV on the keyway. I also installed a vibration damper resurface ring to deal with any groove cut into it by dirt on the seal.

Also all the bolts in the pic with large black arrows need to have sealant applied to the threads. RTV will work, at least that is what I have used.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. I decided to replace the timing chain cover because the car is 21 years old, has 183,000 miles and was so deep in this to just do it right. I am going to play with the old timing cover and the broken bolt. On bottom, smaller diameter with 8 MM head. Thanks Automender12345 for the photo. You and others have done a wonderful job of documenting your work. It just did not feel right when trying to remove. I have through the years learned that brute strength is not the answer, nor is frustration. I have some liquid teflon for plumbing as well a couple types of rtv for the keyway. I have an electric impact wrench and the bolts for the crankshaft pulley were very stubborn as well as the crankshaft main bolt and washer. I hope to have this done by tomorrow, think I will fill with distilled water until I determine if leaks are gone. When I bought this car I looked under the hood and told my wife, well at least I can check the fluids. Now thanks to this website, YouTube, and people like you am staring the the naked timing chain.

Thank you,
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Though there seems to be little interest or participation in this thread will post for the future, someone that has similar concerns and questions as I did. You do not need to remove the power steering pump, bracket, as well as alternator bracket to complete this task. Some of the more superficial braces for the alternator will have to be removed. I as an amateur took the word of a YouTube video and installed the water pump on the timing cover before installing. I absolutely could not fit the timing cover to place with the water pump on the cover, too much additional thickness from the water pump and the area where the pulley would be mounted. I could just not find adequate clearance to fit it to place with the water pump on the timing cover. All in all it has been a time consuming, at times frustrating job.

Scott
 

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I removed everything in that area. It is hard to maneuver the TC in place to begin with if it is all removed. I believe I was able to get the WP and TC assembly in place but it has been years. I also bought Ford TC and Ford TC gaskets on two of my cars because it was so much of a pain I was willing to spend the money so it would not leak after assembly. I have done this job four times so I feel your pain.
 
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