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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK, I deserve the whipping. Here's the data: 2004 DOHC Taurus 88K bought new (my first new car). Oil every 3k, plugs at 50k, trans fluid change every 20k. Leaving for NYC last Sun so I wash the motor w/purple power and it runs terribly. Let dry in sun and returns somewhat, mechanic suggests Lucas fuel injector treatment and thinks it will be fine. No check engine light. Get to Wheeling WV it will surge and run rough, barely climb the hill.

Return to Newark and retrieve wife's 180k Exploder and make the trip. Have Taurus towed to mech. He doesn't drive it, yet gives it a clean bill of health. P/U car on return, runs rough. Surging. OK on flats, yet when you ask for power up a hill, it responds super slowly. Almost feels fuel starved, yet I replaced the fuel filter (thanks to this website) earlier this year, Autozone part not dealer. Dealer suggested to blow on the sensor in the air intake duct, made no difference, and I also filled w/89 octane gas, thinking I may have had some poor gas. I am at a loss as to what to do next. Mech said he pulled 2 plugs and they looked fine. Many thanks readers!

Driving to work this am, I noticed this bumping and surging, a fuel-starved type of issue. No check engine light, and the engine revs fine on idle. It is under load that it's the worst, and a heavy throttle exacerbates the problem. A lighter throttle seems to run better, shifting into a higher gear helps the surging. Is this an injector issue possibly, or should I go with a factory fuel filter?
 

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Take out each one of your ignition coils and clean them up look for very fine, minute cracks.

When a hot engine gets cleaned, it seems like Ford's subpar plastics are not up to the cool water on hot plastic on the ignition coils, causing them to develop hairline fractures and something similar to what your saying.
 

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OK thanks, I've been searching around this site all morning and have read about this. Couple of ?'s: alanisdeals on ebay sells a set of 6 motorcraft coils for $100, this is funny since most are about that each at the parts stores around here. And, what to do about getting to the back 3? What do you remove, as I have large hands and don't really know where to start? Many thanks Bull for the reply. BTW the motor was cold. The point is, prior to washy, no issue. Washie, issue.
 

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OK thanks, I've been searching around this site all morning and have read about this. Couple of ?'s: alanisdeals on ebay sells a set of 6 motorcraft coils for $100, this is funny since most are about that each at the parts stores around here. And, what to do about getting to the back 3? What do you remove, as I have large hands and don't really know where to start? Many thanks Bull for the reply. BTW the motor was cold. The point is, prior to washy, no issue. Washie, issue.
Many people on here remove the upper intake manifold, this is lunacy. I remove the wiper arms and upper and lower plastic windshield cowl parts. This gives you plenty of room to get to the rear cylinder bank on the Duratec engine, and is a lot less painful than messing with intake manifold gaskets and such.
 

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There's a chance some water got into your rear bank plug area and is there's some shortcircuiting going on.
I should know, I had this situation once too after washing the engine.:eek:

My engine light also came on .
You really don't want to drive the car much with this problem. It could lead to much larger problems.........
 

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OK thanks, I've been searching around this site all morning and have read about this. Couple of ?'s: alanisdeals on ebay sells a set of 6 motorcraft coils for $100, this is funny since most are about that each at the parts stores around here. And, what to do about getting to the back 3? What do you remove, as I have large hands and don't really know where to start? Many thanks Bull for the reply. BTW the motor was cold. The point is, prior to washy, no issue. Washie, issue.
That's the dude I bought mine from lol So far so good. I also grab any new looking ones at the pull a part/junkyards. So far all mine have been fine.

And honestly, to remove the rear 3, you just need to remove the passenger side portion of the cowling. You just need a stubby rachet and the 8mm socket.

And like duraSEL said, could also have some corrision action down in plug wells. TCCA member kermit had this issue awhile back, but he had the plugs and ignition wire version of the Duratec.
 

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If the car is running and you blow in the MAF the car should almost stall. clean the maf sensor and advise
 

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Don't use Brake cleaner on the MAF. Use MAF cleaner only or else you might damage it and have to replace it.
 

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Don't use Brake cleaner on the MAF. Use MAF cleaner only or else you might damage it and have to replace it.
Its not so much that you would "damage" it but that deposits of cleaner being left behind would affect its function. MAFS cleaner is high purity and leaves no residue.

I willing to bet its the back row of plug wells filled with water. take the cables out and look for water, it should be dry... if not.. that could be very well your problem.
 

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Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner can be purchased at most any auto store. I have bought it at Autozone, and Walmart before and have seen it at all major retailers like Advance Auto, O'reilly, Parts 4 Plus etc.... I think its just about everywhere you look.

The most popular brand but not necessarily the best is CRC, which is readily available. Gunk also makes a product
 
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